1920s suits

[herringbonekid]

cinematographer James Wong Howe, 1924:

 

[volvomeister13]

There's been talk on here of how the recent trend in slim-cut suits in the U.S. (awful button stance, horrific wide floppy shoulders, crappy fabrics, etc.) fail to live up to the suits of the 1920's.

However, I noticed on a trip that the recent styles in Japan seem to have been based on 1920's suits with a much, much higher degree of success. Many have shoulders that nail the narrow, natural 1920's shoulder style, complete with the extremely rearward sloping shoulder seams usually only seen on jackets up to the early twenties or so. The slant pockets, suppressed waists, and flared jacket skirts were very good as well, even if not always perfect. I was really impressed. Unfortunately, I wasn't there to do any serious suit shopping and didn't have a chance to find anything that fit (always a challenge in Japan). It's all a big change over what they were doing over there even just two years ago (and even that stuff was miles beyond American RTW suits).

Has anyone else noticed this or know what's up with it all?

 

[Papperskatt]

Maybe something of interest for our US loungers? The chance to win one of Nuckys suits from Boardwalk Empire.

http://www.gilt.com/company/content/boardwalkempire

 

[herringbonekid]

Volvo, apart from a couple of the more obviously vintage-inspired Japanese brands i've not seen any typical Japanese RTW suits. did you make note of any brand names ?

 

[Quetzal]

There's been talk on here of how the recent trend in slim-cut suits in the U.S. (awful button stance, horrific wide floppy shoulders, crappy fabrics, etc.) fail to live up to the suits of the 1920's.

However, I noticed on a trip that the recent styles in Japan seem to have been based on 1920's suits with a much, much higher degree of success. Many have shoulders that nail the narrow, natural 1920's shoulder style, complete with the extremely rearward sloping shoulder seams usually only seen on jackets up to the early twenties or so. The slant pockets, suppressed waists, and flared jacket skirts were very good as well, even if not always perfect. I was really impressed. Unfortunately, I wasn't there to do any serious suit shopping and didn't have a chance to find anything that fit (always a challenge in Japan). It's all a big change over what they were doing over there even just two years ago (and even that stuff was miles beyond American RTW suits).

Has anyone else noticed this or know what's up with it all?

Well, I did read a thread a few years back on how the Japanese would show up early to flea markets/estate sales/theater warehouse sales and the like, especially on the Coasts, and buy ALL of the vintage/antique goods being sold and bring them back to Japan. Now they seem to be nabbing our beloved 40s/50s rayons, prints, hand-paints, and two-tone ventilated shoes!

-Quetzal

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

From "Elegante Welt" 1925
Casualwear for the beach and the mountains.

 

[Fastuni]

Thanks. European warm-weather casualwear from the 20's is certainly a bit of a "knowledge gap" for me.

Some ideas strike me as rather unappealing, though.

Tie and hat band in the same color stripes as the blazer?
Navy blazer with flannels (so far perfectly good) - but with odd waistcoat? At the beach?

Also I can't quite approve of silk-sleeves on a leather vest... the entire "mountaineer group" looks slightly like renaissance-inspired costumes to me.
Those brim-down hats also look a bit like helmets.

But very interesting items, nontheless... of course I'd be happy to own any of them.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I agree. It's a few years earlier than my preffered style and that really shows in the details. I don't like the hat shape and the knickerbockers look better as plus fours too.
But like you I would still be happy to find any of them.

 

[Cobden]

Tie and hat band in the same color stripes as the blazer? :

Not uncommon, when you consider the tie, boater band, and blazer would be in the tennis/cricket/rowing/etc. club colours.

 

[Fastuni]

Yes, it's pretty much a "club uniform" then.
For a casual "non-club" combination this would look excessively matched.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Not matching them at all would look like chap olympics though.

 

[Fastuni]

I think that a slight "matching of colors" would be better than repeating exactly the same stripes on three items.
Anyway as striped blazers, boaters and club-ties are all not part of my wardrobe (nor do I intend to add them), I shouldn't really be bothered by them...

 

[Nick D]

 

[herringbonekid]

excellent suits Nick !

 

[Papperskatt]

Oh, I like!

 

[Two Types]

Gents, what's your thinking on this jacket: 1920s? it has a heavily slanted breast pocket and a natural shoulder with a sloping seam:

 

[Rabbit]

Sure looks 20s to me (earlier than late 20s). It's not too clear from the back photo, but it looks like the arm/shoulder seam is fairly straight, not bent towards the back (shoulder blades) as it is on early styles, so maybe mid-20s?
I haven't seen too many of those, though.

Were you deliberating whether it might be earlier still?

 

[Guttersnipe]

Looks like it's from the teens to me.

 

[Papperskatt]

My gut-feeling is telling me late teens to early 20s, but I'm really unsure.