1920s - fashion with fun, whimsy and chic

[Mrs. Merl]

Okay, maybe this is a silly question - All of these dresses are so ethereal - what exactly did they wear underneath? Just the lovely slips and camisoles one sees or were there other items worn?

 

[Paul]

Okay, maybe this is a silly question - All of these dresses are so ethereal - what exactly did they wear underneath? Just the lovely slips and camisoles one sees or were there other items worn?

I asked the same question on another forum there answer apart from the normal lingerie was that the ladies worn an under dress.

That leads into the obvious question what did they look like
It could be just another word for a slip I not too sure.

 

[Mojito]

It's a shame that many of these dresses would have come with original slips, many of which are now lost. These were often an integral part of the gown. I have a green silk slip with silver lame trim (I'll try to upload a photo of it next week) - the dress it must have belonged to would have been gorgeous. Even gowns purchased through catalogues often had a slip that went under - for example, an ad from the 1927/28 Chicago Mail Order Catalogue offers a silk georgette party frock with beads and rhinestones that included a rayon slip. Colours included black with pink slip, peach with pink slip, French blue with pink slip, or all white. Slips could be purchased separately, however, in a range of colours.

Other gaments depended on one's figure (and when exactly during the decade the gown was worn) - catalogues and lingerie advertisments of the period are filled with corsets, many of which went over the hips, some of which went over the bust, others which were worn with a cami/corset cover. There's a lovely period ad for NuBone corsets, which shows a woman being fitted for a corset in her home, then arrayed in a beautiful beaded gown and long strings of pearls. Girdles also feature. As the decade went on, you see lighter garments that could have been worn by the more nubile figured - dance sets, for example, which consist of tap panties and a very light beandeau bra - really just a strip of material, with perhaps some ruching for seperation. By decades end, there are plenty of brassieres available, and they're starting to assume the form we're more famliar with - lifting and seperating - as well as what look more like modern compression bras. The sizes they came in make it clear they weren't just intended for very slim A cups.

I assume that, early on in the 20s when girls sometimes checked their corsets when they went dancing, they still had camisoles, panties and/or teddies/envelope chemises etc!

 

[Mrs. Merl]

A very informative answer - thank you!

 

[Paul]

A very informative answer - thank you!

I agree Mrs. Merl it's the small detail like this which is the hardest to find out.
it is ashame you do not see the slips these days.

Mojito it's interesting about the corsets, I have also seen special Dancing corsets from the 20's which I think are not as long so allowing more movment, mind you those would have only been worn by ladies who could afford to have two or more corsets

 

[Spaugs]

Wow, I have never learned so much about 20s undergarments! You really can't find info like that often! Thanks!

 

[Mrs. Merl]

It is a shame about the slips. But so often as impromptu historians we have to search for the whole answer - as time loses little pieces to the puzzle.

 

[Paul]

So true... the other thing which took me ages to realize, and slightly feel a fool for not working this out sooner is in vintage lingerie advert for corsets you see them worn in the wrong order.

Sweet in a way becuse of trying to keep the photo/ drawing modest, show the times they were living in. along with how it's changed today.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Great point. It makes sense when you are first getting into research of any era to not make certain inferences - you really cannot glean all information initially. You must know about a great number of things to create a whole picture. Political climate, moral standings, economic issues - a whole gamut of things can affect ads, art, writings - all source documents.

 

[Mojito]

Here's that NuBone corset ad I mentioned:

All Posters has some ads from the 1920s in their vintage lingerie section (including a great "corset belt":

https://www.allposters.com/-st/Lingerie-Vintage-Art-Posters_c92982_.htm

I'm hunting around to find an image of a multicolour slip worn under a dress to get a specific effect...unfortunately, the site is bookmarked on my laptop, which is not charged or hooked up...I'll see if I can find it again.

 

[Mojito]

Been a bit caught up with the Christmas whirl lately...have had some great 20s buys lately, though - hope to photograph and upload them.

In the meantime, here's a specific slip to go with a particular gown, this one from trousseau.net:

And the underslip:

It would have given a hint of silver lame at the top, while the bottom would have been the same colour as the fringe over it. Side snap closures would have given it a snugger fit - you often find, when the original slip is found with a dress, it fits more closely to the body than the overdress does (although in this case the over dress is reasonably snug as well).

Here's the green slip with lame trim that I mentioned above:

I recently bought this sheer dress in a not too dissimilar colour...it hasn't arrived yet, so I've no idea if it would work with the slip and give it a more intense green. If the lame in particular doesn't look right, I'll go with a flesh or champagne slip.

 

[Mrs. Merl]

Now I get it. I thought "hmmm, they seem like they would have a slip - but hey these days seeing your underpants is fashionable maybe it was then too!" But this makes a lot of sense. And there ya have it. Thank you for showing these specific under dresses.

 

[Lily Powers]

All the photos on this post, Mojito, are just breathtakingly beautiful. This particular frock, however, made me chuckle - I could only picture wearing it from dressing room to hallway, before my cat (a gorgeous Maine Coon, if anyone is wondering ) took one look at the fringe and thought it was absolutely the most magnificent, moving toy a kitty could have; better than all the strings in the world!

 

[Mojito]

Glad it was a useful illustration, Mrs Merl! I realised after I posted that Vintage Betty has also posted a picture of a slip that is a very integral part of a 20s gown - it's on Page 1.

Had a chuckle at your post, Lily Powers - how many tabbed hems, fringes, scarves, sashes etc fell victim to feline delight in an age of dangling embellishments?

 

[Mrs. Merl]

I made specific note of that dress, the one Vintage Betty posted. As the simple lines would be easy to recreate.

 

[Paul]

Mojito than you for posting the photos, it is very interesting to see the slips.

 

[TheRedHead]

The one I lost out on and the consolation!

I love this thread and have gotten really into 20's style! I thought the ladies of this thread might appreciate seeing my first purchase. I tried for the the gold lame number, which was in beautiful condition with its slip with lame trim and gold velvet weighted edging but it got too rich for my blood I'm afraid! It would be some consolation if one of you ladies had been the lucky one?

but my consolation which is in the post is this one, which I can't wait to see:

what do you think?

 

[Mojito]

I loved that gold lame dress too, RedHead - I had it on my watch list and seriously considered bidding, but decided in the end not to do so as I can't justify another higher priced evening dress at the moment when I'm still looking for other bits and pieces.

The dress you did buy strikes me as the perfect place to begin a 1920s collection. It's not only a classic, it's a very versatile piece. You'll be able to get all sorts of different effects with different coloured slips. Is there a small hole in it on the bodice, or is that the lighting? You may be able to patch it, if it is. The hem in particular is spectacular.

Glad the photos were useful, Paul! I have bought some lovely bits and bobs lately, and when I've finished charging the camera will try to photo them. Amongst them is the white single plume feather fan I mentioned I was on the lookout for earlier in this thread!

 

[TheRedHead]

starting my collection!

Thanks Mojito! Yes there is a small hole, it was described by the seller and i'm hoping to repair it though she points out that it can't be seen with the black slip, as you say, the dress would be lovely with other colour slips too, I'm so excited to see it!

 

[Lady Day]

All I can offer are buttons. Late 20s glass, less than 5/8" long.

LD