1920s - fashion with fun, whimsy and chic

[BajueBoutique]

Beautiful hats Mojito

I love the first baby blue one....

 

[minnaminerva]

twenties fashion...

Any FL members who are in London/GB might want to have a look at the events page.
The New Sheridan Club Christmas party has a Weimar/Cabaret theme, perfect for flappers...
Minn.

 

[Mojito]

Minnaminerva, that sounds like a fantastic event...makes me wish I was back in London! I have to settle for injecting a little "flapper" into our Bollywood themed Christmas Party (Bollywood Flapper!).

Glad you like the hats, BajueBoutique - we have a couple of pastel blue chiffon day dresses in our collection that will go with it - I'll post photos when they're teamed up together.

I do agree with you on the problems of fringed dresses, Miss Sis! I'd like to post some photos of the "real deal", so people can see the contrast between the costumes available today and the dresses that were worn at the time...the cliched silk fringed dress did exist, but there were so many more in so many forms.

Here's a very poor photo of one of my dresses with a beaded fringe - I'm sorry it's not on a dress from! I'll post photos when it's worn as part of a complete outfit - I have the ideal bandeau to go with this, echoing the leaf patterns and gold/silver beading:

Beading detail:

Fringe detail:

Keyhole neckline detail:

 

[Mojito]

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g44/PelagicWobbegong/blog/fringe6.jpg

The modern flapper costume:

Images of contemporary 1920s fringed dresses:

 

[Lillemor]

Was it during the 1920s this style of dress was invented? :

http://www.chinese-beauty.net/compose.php?imageid=185

For a sit down dinner where I know I won't have to get up and dance wildly, I wouldn't mind wearing an authentic one from the 1920s. I think it would end up as a display item though.

I really want something vintage that's colorful, decorated and embroidered. Even if I can't wear it. My home desperately needs some color but I'm not handy with paint.

 

[Miss 1929]

Cheong Sam

Was it during the 1920s this style of dress was invented? :

http://www.chinese-beauty.net/compose.php?imageid=185

Is the name of that type of dress. I know it is hard for our Westernized eyes to see it, but in the 20s and 30s, when this dress became popular amongst the ladies of Shanghai, then all of China, this was a cross-dressing look! Amazing how anyone could think something so tight and slinky and figure hugging could ever be cross-dressing, but it is based on a traditional man's day gown, down to the closures and the high neck. They were very frowned on after the Revolution, but they are making a big comeback.
You will want to get one a bit too big so it can be tailored to fit you, as the fit is very important.

 

[Lillemor]

Was it during the 1920s this style of dress was invented? :

http://www.chinese-beauty.net/compose.php?imageid=185

Is the name of that type of dress. I know it is hard for our Westernized eyes to see it, but in the 20s and 30s, when this dress became popular amongst the ladies of Shanghai, then all of China, this was a cross-dressing look! Amazing how anyone could think something so tight and slinky and figure hugging could ever be cross-dressing, but it is based on a traditional man's day gown, down to the closures and the high neck. They were very frowned on after the Revolution, but they are making a big comeback.
You will want to get one a bit too big so it can be tailored to fit you, as the fit is very important.

Thanks. This was very informative. I can see how you can get odd folds, bulges and stretches otherwise.

 

[Vanessa]

Beading detail:

If I'm ever in Sydney - can I come look at the pretties in your closet?

 

[Paul]

Oh Mojito what a brilliam thread how did I miss this one

The thing which has sort of puzzed me with heaverly beaded 20's dresses is that there not the sort of thing which you can wear and do any dancing in back so am i right in thinging they more for dinner parties etc

Beaded dresses are always asociated with flappers and flapper with dancing etc.
Like the fabulous dresses below

Minnaminerva, that sounds like a fantastic event...makes me wish I was back in London! I have to settle for injecting a little "flapper" into our Bollywood themed Christmas Party (Bollywood Flapper!).

Glad you like the hats, BajueBoutique - we have a couple of pastel blue chiffon day dresses in our collection that will go with it - I'll post photos when they're teamed up together.

I do agree with you on the problems of fringed dresses, Miss Sis! I'd like to post some photos of the "real deal", so people can see the contrast between the costumes available today and the dresses that were worn at the time...the cliched silk fringed dress did exist, but there were so many more in so many forms.

Here's a very poor photo of one of my dresses with a beaded fringe - I'm sorry it's not on a dress from! I'll post photos when it's worn as part of a complete outfit - I have the ideal bandeau to go with this, echoing the leaf patterns and gold/silver beading:

Beading detail:

Fringe detail:

Keyhole neckline detail:

 

[Lillemor]

Oh Mojito what a brilliam thread how did I miss this one

The thing which has sort of puzzed me with heaverly beaded 20's dresses is that there not the sort of thing which you can wear and do any dancing in back so am i right in thinging they more for dinner parties etc

Beaded dresses are always asociated with flappers and flapper with dancing etc.
Like the fabulous dresses below

I don't know about beaded flapper dresses but from having worn beaded and sequined lahenga, ghagras (sp?), sari suits, and shalwar-kameez/dupatta combinations with beads and sequins to dance parties with South Asian friends in my teens, I do fondly remember how we'd always have all these beads, sequins and other decorations to sweep up afterwards.lol

They were of varying quality. I used to buy the cheapest but some of my friends bought them in expensive high end shops and South Asian brands equivalent of Dior, Chanel, YSL, etc. So some of them were very well sewn so you can't fault it on poor labour alone. I assume they would've had varying qualities back then too and that the amount of loss of embellishment would've varied too.

Beaded skirts aren't always comfortable to sit on...

 

[i_am_the_scruff]

I just ordered this http://www.asos.com/Johnny-Loves-Ro...oduct.aspx?iid=427493&cid=4175&clr=Black&sh=0

and yes I know it's not vintage etc, and not spot on 20s style but I like it and that's whats most important (for the snobs out there!) but I don't know what to wear it with. I don't own any 20s-ish clothing or much vintage style clothing to be honest (lack of money stops me) but there MUST be other things it would go well with. Any tips?

 

[Mojito]

Hallo Paul - I was hoping to see you here at some point! Would you consider posting some links to your own 1920s collection? You've got some lovely pieces...we haven't done cigarette holders yet, and your Egyptian revival holder is one of my favourites. I think Lillemor's comments are correct - some of these beaded numbers *were* dance dresses...part of their charm was the way in which the fringe swayed and the light caught the beads and sequins as you moved. Unfortunately, many of them are now just not up to it. I was once swept up on to the dance floor while wearing my heavily beaded/sequined black French dress, and while I love taking a swirl, I was terrified the whole time. Fortunately the dress made it through unscathed, but I wouldn't want to repeat the nerve-wracking experience.

I-am-the-Scruff, that's a lovely bandeau-inspired piece! I wear 20s inspired pieces as well - even when I'm not doing top-to-toe vintage, I like to have a touch of the era around me, even if it's just a beaded top, a small brimmed cloche or a capeline. I have a black satin dress with a chiffon panel by Lee Mathews that has a very 20s styling - straight cut across the top of the bodice, dropped waistline, etc. I hope my comments about the contemporary version of "flapper costume", like the example pictured above - I think I've mentioned elsewhere that while I wouldn't wear it myself, I love seeing people at events who are having a fantastic time...they often look great, even if they're wearing a dress that it not period-correct, worn at the wrong time of day (e.g. a beaded, sequined evening dress in the early afternoon, or a day time cloche with an evening gown).

I think you could wear that gorgeous headpiece with just a simple slip dress and a few long strands of beads, pearls or crystals. Perhaps with a pretty shawl or stole.

Speaking of 20s style, I'm madly in love with Boudoir Queen's 1920s pieces, influenced by the clothing of the boudoir dolls of the era and even incorporating textiles, appliques and other embellishments from period pieces. I know it's not the style that appeals to many of the beautifully tailored and polished vintage ladies here, but it's deeply appealing to the part of me that loves BoHo. She uses the most fabulous, luxurious materials, and has a lush juxtaposition of textures and colours. It's no wonder her work is so popular with stage performers...here's a jacket I've got on layaway (the red one on the left with the lace sash):

And one of these headbands:

 

[i_am_the_scruff]

Mojito thank you so much for your reply

:edit: judging by the amount of 20's inspired headbands and flapper dresses I've seen on asos.com it looks like the 20s look is going to be the next big thing. Just like the 40s/50s recently was.

 

[Rachael]

I'm putting together a '20s ensemble for New Years. It's a citron silk dress with a moss green embroidered net overlay. I haven't yet decided if there will be sleeves involved or not.

One reason I have avoided this decade up until now is that I have very long hair. Even though many women and most models had very short hair, I have seen a few pictures of long hairstyles from this decade. Rolling my hair just seems very 30's and 40's. Were nets or snoods worn?

 

[Miss Hattie]

I wouldn’t worry about your long hair, My Great Grandma had very long, thick hair in the twenties and I don’t think she had it bobbed until the thirties. She wore it long and straight down to just below her ears then softly brought to the back ( gave the appearance of a soft curve) and then each side twisted slightly towards the back, then pinned in the middle (probably a soft oblong bun type thing!) Not to good at explaining, but it sort of makes sense... I think!

 

[Caity Lynn]

slightley fftopic: but as much as I love the 20's style, I'm VERY sad to see it come back. It was inevitable with the modern models view of "skinny" the 20's fashionable boyish figure is the only place we could regress to now!
(hmm...can we go back to like Renaissance times with full figured ladies being more fashionable next?!) It's sad the view people have of how women should look nowadays, and for that reason Alone am I sad to see the 20's come back. However I LOVE the fashion!!!

 

[Miss Hattie]

Very true, but I’m naturally as you say ‘skinny’ ( I prefer the term slender!) and can’t help but be skinny! But if you look into the twenties more(more so in the early twenties)you will see that the models and ordinary women of that era are actually quite a chunky (in a nice way) build and not at all skinny in the way the models are today, and little shorter on average too.! I would say the fashion illustration of the era gives a false idea of shapes of how the real women looked- with the iconic, elongated and slender figures!
I may be wrong but hay ho that’s what I have found with the past years of fascination for the 20’s/30’s/and 40’s.

Nowadays I suppose it’s just the fashion worlds idea of the twenties look.

 

[Mojito]

Miss Hattie, you're absolutely right that not every woman bobbed her hair in the 1920s. Women with long hair often styled it to imitate the shorter looks - sometimes even bobbing just the sides framing the face - and even in fashion plates you can see women with a small roll at the nape of the neck. There were other styles as well. The extremely stylish Natacha Rambova, second wife of Rudolph Valentino, wore her hair braided and rolled into long coils at the sides of her head and didn't bob it unti later - this sort of Princess Leia-esque style was quite popular in the first half of the decade:

Rachael, here's an article from 1924 that mentions various ways of styling long hair, including the bun along the nape of the neck and the use of a chingnon:

http://www.1920-30.com/fashion/hairstyles/hair-decoration.html

Your outfit sounds fantastic, and I hope you post photos of the completed look!

Caity Lynn, I appreciate what you're saying about the problems of fashion styles and their power to pressure women into conforming to an unhealthy body type. I agree that we should always be wear of unhealthy pressures - the "heroin chic" of the 90s is an extreme example. But the 20s have been influential on fashion throughout the 20th century - there were revivals of the look in the 60s, 70s and 80s, and I've even heard that it was briefly in vogue again in the 40s! Miss Hattie is right that the fashion plates of the time were no more universally representative of typical body types of the era than those elongated ectomorphs of the 70s, 80s, 90s and 00s. We know that the woman of the 50s is often depicted on pattern designs as having an impossibly tiny waist (where on earth did their internal organs go??), but that the styles as actually worn were quite curvy and part of the effect of a small waist for many women was acheived though foundation garments. Something similar can be said of the 1920s - some women (notably teens) were able to have the ideal boyish figure, but many others wore foundation garments or just adapted the look to suit themselves. My grandmother was never, ever a waif - she was a rather "buxom" lady, as she herself said, but she was drop dead gorgeous in the 1920s, with a recognisable style.

The outfits coming back into fashion (and designers have been flirting with the 1920s for a few seasons now) are not facsimile outfits of those worn in the 20s, or at least not many of them are (I've seen the odd dress that does look like a replica). They tend to take elements - a flowing shift dress, an emphasis on beading and sequins, a bandeau, etc - and rework them into a contemporary look. A broad brimmed hat and a white drop waisted dress worn with many strands of beads is a nod to the decade, not an exact reconstruction.

Vanessa, I'm sorry I missed your comment earlier...if you're ever in Sydney, I'd be delighted to show you the collection. I've just added a whole new swag of day dresses and a new hat or two! I'm hoping to add new photos to this thread this week.

 

[Paul]

I was just thinking if a beaded dress is with us today then it cannot have been worn so much back in the 20's . There must have been a point when a lady looked at a dress and said to herself " I cannot wear that agin as there are some dare patches of beads... just my odd thinking I know.

Here is the link to my 20's collection page... it only has about 60% of it up at the moment, I will have to find time to add the rest.

http://www.inspiration-from-vintage.info/1920.html

For me part of the attraction to the 20's is because the ladies back then did things which we do not even notice today apart from just the fashions.

 

[Caity Lynn]

I was referring to more of the younger ladies in the 20's I've done a little research of the fashion in that era, but very little.Thank you ladies for disagreeing with me so civilly though.As I said before, I really do enjoy the fashion though!!!