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Matt Deckard Apparel
To be clear, I think the suit looks great. A number of people have complained here, however, that modern vests have straight, gently pointed bottoms that don't accurately imitate the more curved, acutely pointed bottoms of vintage vests. I was therefore surprised to see such a modern-looking... -
First Bespoke Experience
Looks good, overall. Just a few last comments. Gray suit: There's some diagonal wrinkling at the back of your left shoulder/armpit. Some excess cloth in this area is OK, if it's built in for mobility. But it should fold vertically, not diagonally like this. Looks like your left shoulder... -
Matt Deckard Apparel
Mr. Deckard, those vest bottoms look awfully straight. And unpointy. And modern. What's up? -
Learning how to tailor?
Those 10 year old Burmese workers are running computerized machinery that costs tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars and does in seconds what a human takes minutes or hours to do. -
Learning how to tailor?
If you know how to run a sewing machine, you can probably start doing your own trouser alterations almost immediately. Alterations to jackets will take some instruction and practice, but you can probably get there eventually. If you practice a lot, you might get to the point where you can... -
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Coat arm holes, how high is high?
Indy Magnoli one time gave a specific measurement for the armhole circumference on his own suits he has made for him. I think it was 20", but I'm not certain about that. -
3-piece... DB jacket with DC waistcoat. Too much or awesome?
This may possibly have had something to do with it, though I doubt it and it's getting away from Howard Hughes' original argument, anyway. I still say that the main reason men wore waistcoats into the mid-20th century was simply that they and their fathers and grandfathers had always worn them... -
3-piece... DB jacket with DC waistcoat. Too much or awesome?
Not really. There wasn't really a point where vests were "introduced" to the lounge suit, as though it was some sort of innovation. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, men wore waistcoats because men had always worn them--with frock coats and morning coats, and before that with day tail... -
3-piece... DB jacket with DC waistcoat. Too much or awesome?
Utter rubbish. This is an anachronism, introducing attributing a garment to a 20th century convention when it in fact goes back centuries earlier. The vest has its origins in the 17th century, when the court of Charles II set formalized rules for court dress after the Restoration. The... -
First Bespoke Experience
The lapels look fine to me. They're more modern-looking than vintage-looking, but they look good. -
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Altering Vintage DB Jacket to Single Breasted
I'll be a lone voice of dissent here and say I think this alteration shouldn't be done. Paddy's a stylish gent, but this particular suit of his and the others I've seen done this way just don't look right. Not only are the lapels wider than I think is proper for the coat to be balanced, the... -
Brit mags are better
I haven't yet found a spare $130 for the subscription. :eek: If MK had been able to charge $30 per issue for Classic Style, it might not have gone under so quickly. -
First Bespoke Experience
Definitely the front-to-back balance is off. Looks like the back is too long relative to the front, which is causing it to collapse into your buttocks and causing the ripples you can see at the sides of the jacket in the straight-on front view. Also, it looks like the sleeve pitch is not... -
Checking for fusing tape
If you're worried about fusible tape, don't be. It's used by even the best bespoke tailors to reinforce certain areas of a coat. If you're worried about jacket fronts that are fused, that isn't done with tape but with large pieces of fusible material bonded to the entire coatfront. To... -
The Palm Beach suit thread
Post your specific questions, and pictures illustrating them if possible, and we'll try to answer. -
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1950s Nettleton Suede Spectators US10 Narrow/9.5C
Marc Chevalier, are you watching? Those look an awful lot like a pair from your wish list...- Orgetorix
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- Forum: Classifieds
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Catalog Suit Scans 35-42
Maybe it's just me, but I'm finding it more and more difficult to understand how people ever thought those shoulders looked good. They're even more ridiculous than the stuff Tom Ford is selling today. -
Formal Wear Primer
One more thing to say in this regard: As Richard Warren has already noted, propriety is in some sense in the eye of the beholder. And 99.9% of the beholders in the modern world aren't going to notice the difference between a peak, notch, or shawl lapel. All they're going to see is that you're... -
I have a clue, but want opinions
Two-tone shoes are informal, and thus not really appropriate for the businesslike formality of a pinstriped suit. Unless, as has been said, you're going for a costume look, consider some plain black oxfords with that suit. -
Formal Wear Primer
Because my defense of the appropriate of the notch lapel dinner jacket (NLDJ) has been made explicitly for the American context, as my original post will show. While avedwards is right that US/UK sartorial standards are usually similar, I believe that this is one area where the US and UK have...
