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  1. Patrick Hall

    Richman Brothers suit jacket

    My best guess would be late 30's - early 40's, pre-bold look. It would be hard to imagine more stock details - jetted pockets, skeleton lining, the lapel shape and roll. So I'd doubt there is any means to get more specific than that. EDIT Noticing that the jacket is rather short, which means...
  2. Patrick Hall

    Single Button Double Breasted Suit??

    I think it's a confusing single-double-breasted hybrid. But then I'm not even a fan of two button double breasted coats. I think you need at least four for things to look balanced.
  3. Patrick Hall

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I always take my suits to my tailor to be pressed by hand, to avoid flattened lapels. Machine presses always ruin a good roll. I'm not sure I've ever seen a modern coat where the roll line was reinforced with stay tape, even considering bespoke garments. Neither of my suits made by American...
  4. Patrick Hall

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Uhu, Dirk is right re: lining, all my Golden Era coats are factory-made American coats. My single vintage bespoke suit is from the 30's and is British in provenance and cut from a ridiculously heavy flannel. It features the hardest shoulder pads I've ever felt and boasts a full lining, though I...
  5. Patrick Hall

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    This is a hard question to answer comprehensively for a couple reasons - first, suits within that period varied quite a bit so "30s-40s style" is a moving target. Secondly, there are so many subtle Golden Era details, it would be nigh on impossible to catalog them, and most tailors would...
  7. Patrick Hall

    Show off the sports coats.

    Grenadine is the in thing, these days, but for good reason. I would never hesitate to wear one with tweed. Their texture plays nicely with such a fuzzy fabric.
  8. Patrick Hall

    My first vintage suit

    I'm also not entirely persuaded that date was stamped by Burton when the suit was made. Dry cleaners often had idiosyncratic ways of marking garments. I have vintage suits with all kinds of weird scrawls and dates on the pocket bags and tags. As others have said, stylistically it looks...
  9. Patrick Hall

    The Palm Beach suit thread

    one in that size with those beautiful bi-swing shoulder pleats and a half belt. find for the ages. congrats! and, it the fabric looks pristine as well, so no need for an oxyclean bath!
  10. Patrick Hall

    The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

    in such good condition too. Amazed that these "holy grail" items are still out there in the wild to be found. Great find! congratulations!
  11. Patrick Hall

    1920s suits

    A truth: were you to be a guest in my house, by the time you made it to my closet, you wouldn't be shocked to find a bunch of vintage suits living there. For Simon, I think "lifestyle brand" is simply a recognition of this fact. Our tastes tend to encompass more than one kind of item. People who...
  13. Patrick Hall

    1920s suits

    Actually the SJC teens/20s style suit WILL feature an all-around belt, but it will be sewn-in.
  14. Patrick Hall

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    I think the anti-belly can work with a single-breasted coat and a sufficiently broad lapel. I wonder whether it might especially flatter someone with a stocky build. Too much lapel can unpleasantly echo the expanse of flesh underneath. Though, in general I too prefer full-bodied lapels...
  15. Patrick Hall

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    That makes sense. The effect may be partially due to the fact that the lapel seems to want to roll slightly over that top button. Regardless, two beautiful finds! Congratulations!
  16. Patrick Hall

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    Those are lovely, Matt! I particularly like the anti-belly on the lapels on the anthracite suit, the way they almost bend IN. Really interesting look. Thanks for posting the photos!
  17. Patrick Hall

    Feedback Requested

    Thanks GWD! Your facts are NOT alternative! They did indeed originate with Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria. You are correct that they were birthed as a country boot. And certainly there are a variety of balmoral boot makeups that could still evoke that rustic origin - I used to own...
  19. Patrick Hall

    Feedback Requested

    I think you look great, GWD! I would quibble with the formality of a few accessories, like those boots. While exquisite, black boxcalf balmorals are a bit smart for a tweed suit, in my opinion. I'd have gone with boots/shoes in suede or pebble grain, perhaps with open lacing - maybe a norwegian...
  20. Patrick Hall

    J.L. Taylor men's fashion catalog, 1927

    Of all the ignorant solecisms of modern tailored clothes, this is the one that makes me the most crazy. Like a panting tongue wagging around beneath the coat front.
  21. Patrick Hall

    Suits - Pre 1920

    It would depend very much on the details. If it is a sack jacket in black or plain navy, probably between $100-200. If it has all kinds of rare details like belts or half belts or unusual pocket treatments, the price could climb. Condition is also a factor. Mothing, stains, sun fading, all of...
  22. Patrick Hall

    Show off the sports coats.

    Great coat, Johnny. Love twill-weave tweed. An unusual effect. Nice find!
  23. Patrick Hall

    REPRODUCTION: 1910s waist-seam suit

    Suit has SOLD. Thanks for looking!

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