This hide looks excellent. The slightly big shoulders and long sleeves are very much part of how naval airmen usually wear their jackets so you're doing okay with that.
My Vicenza was stiff the first few wearings but definitely didn't remain so (at least not in an inhibiting way); you must have had an unusual batch.
I don't think upping the budget to $2300 (or further still) will actually help for what you're looking for. If anything, I might go so far as to...
Respect. Some guy (seems to be an aspiring flipper) made a full thread for this, lol.
This label places it at mid-70s at latest. I think it's straightforwardly a 618, nothing to indicate otherwise.
Aero was the very last one. He made a thread flaming them for the worst jacket he ever had, and it was clear even from his own pictures that he was manipulating the images lol.
Goatskin isn't historically inaccurate; I've seen a number of goatskin CHPs. (I've thought about having one made myself at Johnson.)
Then he burned bridges with Aero, simultaneously demanding the thickest leather they had in the workshop (against their warning) then being angry at them for the...
I don't think the Aero Irvins run large in any sense. The pit to pit is about what you'd generally expect in a leather jacket but crucially you have to account for the length of the fleece, so upsizing is often the right call.
"Cow Hide Leather". It was the natural endpoint of TFL's thick leather fetish.
It originates in someone, I think HH121, sending Five Star a piece of unusually thick Chromexcel, probably about belt leather thickness, and telling them to have their tannery make "CXL" based on that sample...
Pathetic and embarrassing.
Ah yes! Nothing says "independent thinking" like joining thousands of other people in doing exactly what Self Edge/Standard & Strange/Fine Creek tell you to do.
For Red Tails, Good Wear states the specific jackets they supplied, and notes that the rest were by other reproduction companies. I'm guessing some of those other companies were a little bit looser from what you're saying.
I think there are two additional things to take into account. Grading a pattern is less difficult than drafting a new one altogether, however I think you needed to have been checking in on the grading process a bit more.
And I think the CHL really throws an additional wrench in the works. It's...
The guy wanted the Das Boot jacket. Wested, per about a decade of discussion at RPF and FIlmjackets, made the jackets for Das Boot.
Anyway, I'm not trying to save anyone from himself. I merely asked a question and provided a link.
"Wested Leather Co were contracted to make this ¾ U Boat Jacket in Mid Grey Leather for the Film Das Boot.
But the coat is so good we were asked to remake the jacket in Black worn by Christopher Eccleston in the TV series Dr Who."
Wested is explicit about the jackets they made for films vs...
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