...did Kilo November ever get his high armhole suit ...
I am awaiting the re-done coat. I have been told that it will ship next week. The usual transit time is three days.
I'll send an update immediately when it arrives.
Other examples of "crown cut" fedoras
Here are two more:
I couldn't find the cut crown for Huntz Hall, but I know I saw some Bowery Boys movies where he was wearing them.
My guess is that this style emerged in the 1940's.
Stretching the model
Thanks to Tailor Tom for an insider's view. He has given us a good insight into the challenge I have put to my made-to-measure tailors. His post pretty clearly draws the distinction between the business model of the made-to-measure business and the bespoke business far...
Word from Thailand
I've just got a message from my tailors:
"Thanks for your email, We would go through the article and start tailoring your new jacket soon."
Film at eleven.
Be he live or be he dead?
Now you've opened the box and spoiled things. The hat is either alive or dead instead of in the twilight zone. So which is it?
Professional tailor discussion of arm hole web site
I have sent that link to my tailors. I pasted in this quote:
"If the nude armhole measurement is 19 1/2", then I want the jacket armhole to
finish around 20 1/2" - bigger if I'm using firm canvas and thick shoulder
pads."
Based on my...
Tailors and mechanics
I'm certain that your corner mechanic and the mechanics who work on Formula One race cars can both gap spark plugs (do they still use spark plugs?) But this isn't an apt analogy.
What I'm dealing with here is the difference in the business model between made-to-measure...
Dear Worried ...
I am not worried, but it shows me a few things.
First, they are feeling stung by my reaction to their initial failure to provide what I had asked and paid for. They are prepared to re-make the coat, but they want to put the responsibility on me if I am not pleased with their...
Pinning down exactly what to measure
You used the phrase "around the top of your arm". That suggests to me part of the upper arm between the shoulder and where the biceps widens. It seems to me that I need to measure form the top of the shoulder around under the arm pit and back to the top of...
Initial result not satisfactory, advice needed
I got the suit a few weeks ago, and despite my earnest attempts to have the tailors create it with higher arm holes, the coat came with the same dimensions as any other suit I have got from them.
An exchange of email, pictures, and measurements...
Odd Fellows paper weight
I have an Odd Fellows paperweight made of glass. It belonged to my great grandfather. It is made of glass. Embedded about half-way down is a white layer. On this there is a symbol of three links (as in a chain). "F", "L", and "T" are inscribed in the hollow part of the...
We did deal with it better than they did, we had practice.
We did deal with a financial fiasco every bit as big as the '29 crash. It happened about a year ago. We did better this time. The proof is that you don't see bread lines. Now it's true that it took a few years for the Great Depression...
Cleaning nubuck shoes
I have a plastic eraser that does the trick. It's the sort of thing that formerly was used on technical drawings, before vellum, T-squares, and triangles where replaced by computers.
Any tips on shoe heel repair?
Over several years I bought about a dozen pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes. The heels are fairly standard, the part nearest the foot consists of stacked leather layers and the business end is some sort of rubber. I am hard on the heels, and even though I generally wear...
How it's done
I worked through my regular shoe retailer, Sherman Bros. in Philadelphia. I imagine that AE wants to maintain good relations with their retailers, and consequently will most likely direct you to one of them for placing an order. I can give Sherman Bros. and unqualified...
AE nubuck McLains in the wild
I could only find one picture, from a company picnic last summer. Is anyone surprised that I was the only one in a tie and sport coat?
The shoes at a picnic.
McLain in white nubuck
A couple of years ago I bought an old book of Charlie Chan stories. Charlie Chan was created by Earl Derr Biggers of Warren, Ohio. Biggers graduated from Harvard University in 1907. In addition to the Chan character, Biggers also wrote a number of stories that were...
In Flanders fields where poppies blow
I remember as a child accompanying my mother on her errands when, around Memorial Day, we went into the bank to make a deposit or cash a check, there would be a Veterans of Foreign Wars man outside the bank door wearing a paper barracks cap, holding a white...
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