CAL Straight Zip Leather Jacket ID?

[Lyles]

Hey everyone, I picked up this jacket about a year ago. I 've always been under the assumption that it's an old CAL leather jacket but unfortunately there's not tag, maybe it came off or the jacket has been relined? I'm also thinking about selling it.

Is there anyway to verify that this is a CAL?

Thanks!

 

[Guppy]

Could be. Are the sleeve cuffs mouton lined?

 

[Lyles]

Could be. Are the sleeve cuffs mouton lined?

Yeah just checked, they are!

 

[Lyles]

I noticed the zips are SERVAL

 

[unhatted]

Cals usually have two rows of stitching where the cuff is folded inwards, whereas Al’s tend to have only one. The YKK also suggests Al’s, however I’m not quite sure about the other details, including the sleeve zippers and pocket placement. An early Al’s perhaps (I think they settled into a more distinct groove later on) or a Cal with altered sleeves?

 

[Lyles]

Cals usually have two rows of stitching where the cuff is folded inwards, whereas Al’s tend to have only one. The YKK also suggests Al’s, however I’m not quite sure about the other details, including the sleeve zippers and pocket placement. An early Al’s perhaps (I think they settled into a more distinct groove later on) or a Cal with altered sleeves?

Awesome! Thanks so much for that. If I was to sell it, any idea how much I should put it up for?

Thanks!

 

[Guppy]

Cals usually have two rows of stitching where the cuff is folded inwards, whereas Al’s tend to have only one. The YKK also suggests Al’s, however I’m not quite sure about the other details, including the sleeve zippers and pocket placement. An early Al’s perhaps (I think they settled into a more distinct groove later on) or a Cal with altered sleeves?

I thought I'd read on these forums that Cal made jackets for Al's Leather, and a few other re-labelerss (Mr. S, etc. ) but I'm not sure how to prove that.

I think Cal has used YKK zippers in some periods, although the more vintage ones use Talon or Crown hardware.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Check your DM's

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I thought I'd read on these forums that Cal made jackets for Al's Leather, and a few other re-labelerss (Mr. S, etc. ) but I'm not sure how to prove that.

I think Cal has used YKK zippers in some periods, although the more vintage ones use Talon or Crown hardware.

Quote from the Cal-Leather Jackets FB page, about us.:

“Our vintage leather motorcycle jackets may be found with either our current Cal-Leather label or the earlier Star Glove & Leather label. Both lines are highly valued and sought after by discriminating collectors. Many of our jackets in the 50’s and 60’s were produced for private labels or law enforcement agencies and may not have a label. This has allowed other makers to try to claim our jackets as their own, but our quality craftsmanship and original styling distinguishes us from the rest.”
B

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

OP:
Pretty nice hide on that one no matter Cal or Al’s.
I believe i’d get some hydration on it pretty soon, especially the shoulders, collar and edges. Might help mitigate the cracking.

Cal’s been around a long time and i’ve seen far more no tags than tags.
Zippers used through time have been all over the place with all Talons, Serval and YKK and mixtures(replacements??). Your YKK center looks like a replacement.
Al’s….i believe, according to discussions here, was started by a worker at Cals, a relative, daughter?? that moved right next door and started production of nearly identical jackets. Evidently with their blessings.
See this thread…

Cal Leathers and Al’s Leathers: are they “related”?​

@unhatted , good catch on the double, single row stitching on the sleeves.
I also think Al’s had upsnap belt loops that were always square. Older Cals trimmed the corners.
(Got to look at all my Cals today, thanks for the thread. Any reason to look at Cal’s is a good day)!
B

 

[unhatted]

Looking at my photo album, these belt loops are in the usual Cal direction! However, I will say that there is usually 1-3cm of lining before the inner mouton cuffs, maybe to allow for the sleeves to be shortened. Since there is no space here, I wonder if it’s an alteration. Any sign of sleeve shortening e.g. empty stitch holes?

 

[photo2u]

The Jacket looks to me as a Cal. The leather and other factors point to Cal. One thing about Al's is the sewing machine they used. Al looks like they used singers and different type of nylon threads used by Cal who used consew machines with Cotton and nylon threads. Lastly, the machine spacing is different. Back in the day, I visited Cals factory, and they were using the very same consew machine I had. In my last visit, they still had some consews. The sleeve ending in this particular one has one row, but I think is due to a later alteration of the sleeves. It can be seen that was altered before in several locations. That jacket has seen some action, and it is older than any of Al's productions. Lastly, I have never seen an Al's with serval zips. Lastly, the leather is older unlike the newer processed leather used by Als.

 

[Aloysius]

The Jacket looks to me as a Cal. The leather and other factors point to Cal. One thing about Al's is the sewing machine they used. Al looks like they used singers and different type of nylon threads used by Cal who used consew machines with Cotton and nylon threads. Lastly, the machine spacing is different. Back in the day, I visited Cals factory, and they were using the very same consew machine I had. In my last visit, they still had some consews. The sleeve ending in this particular one has one row, but I think is due to a later alteration of the sleeves. It can be seen that was altered before in several locations. That jacket has seen some action, and it is older than any of Al's productions. Lastly, I have never seen an Al's with serval zips. Lastly, the leather is older unlike the newer processed leather used by Als.

Uncle Photo, is this sewing machine at Johnson the same type of Consew you're thinking of?

 

[AeroFan_07]

The Jacket looks to me as a Cal. The leather and other factors point to Cal. One thing about Al's is the sewing machine they used. Al looks like they used singers and different type of nylon threads used by Cal who used consew machines with Cotton and nylon threads. Lastly, the machine spacing is different. Back in the day, I visited Cals factory, and they were using the very same consew machine I had. In my last visit, they still had some consews. The sleeve ending in this particular one has one row, but I think is due to a later alteration of the sleeves. It can be seen that was altered before in several locations. That jacket has seen some action, and it is older than any of Al's productions. Lastly, I have never seen an Al's with serval zips. Lastly, the leather is older unlike the newer processed leather used by Als.

Amazingly Observant!

 

[Lyles]

The Jacket looks to me as a Cal. The leather and other factors point to Cal. One thing about Al's is the sewing machine they used. Al looks like they used singers and different type of nylon threads used by Cal who used consew machines with Cotton and nylon threads. Lastly, the machine spacing is different. Back in the day, I visited Cals factory, and they were using the very same consew machine I had. In my last visit, they still had some consews. The sleeve ending in this particular one has one row, but I think is due to a later alteration of the sleeves. It can be seen that was altered before in several locations. That jacket has seen some action, and it is older than any of Al's productions. Lastly, I have never seen an Al's with serval zips. Lastly, the leather is older unlike the newer processed leather used by Als.

Thanks so much for the info!