Yet Another My Custom Tailor Suit

[Annixter]

I had someone take photos this afternoon. I could have done a better job of making sure the jacket was on my shoulders evenly, but it didn't occur to me at the time After wearing the suit to dinner, I am very happy with the fit. The only thing I can see that could use adjusting is the inseam. The natural place that the pants want to ride is slightly lower than I expected, so the inseam measurement I gave to MCT is an inch too long; it's actually an inch too long for what I usually wear, so I'm confused why I gave them that measurement. It really doesn't bother me as it is, but it is easy enough to have my local tailor hem the pants later.

I am also debuting my new-to-me 1940s Borsalino wide brim fedora--along with my mug on the Lounge. Up until this point, I've been a fan of 2" brims, but the 2-3/4" Borsalino is quickly becoming my favorite.

 

[Tailor Tom]

My thoughts...

Congratulations on your new suit. It does look like a good fit for your body, and certainly for an Internet order. Overall, I am quite impressed.

If I question anything (and this is truly from just photos and not up-close and in person, which could be completely different), they are minor.
1 - It seems as if a sleeve length needs to be addressed slightly. The left looks a bit longer than the right. And really, I would shorten both to the break of the wrist to expose some sleeve cuff and your hand more. But that is truly a personal opinion on length. I fit things more "English" in those respects.
2 – Yes, the trousers do look a little long, and that added break could be because they are narrow and riding up on the shoe. Easily changed.
3 – I see a break by the top vest button, not sure what is going on there, could be just a button placement? Maybe it needs to be moved a bit. But overall the vest has a nice shape for your body.
4 – I see a bigger problem though, and that is the shirt in the pics, the fit looks off. The collar looks large, as I can see a gap in the front at your neckline. And the sleeves look voluminous, which makes me think the entire shirt is large too. I would imagine it's rather too full for the tighter armholes of your vest and coat. I think a fitted shirt or even a custom shirt should be in your future. It will do wonders for the entire look and feel of the suit…they so go hand in hand for a great cohesive look.

A couple of tweaks and this suit looks like it will be spot-on. Again congratulations.

 

[Tzedekh]

Overall, the fit isn't bad (the shoulders look just about spot on). And now the bad news. The jacket looks 2 to 3 inches too long, the armhole looks maybe an inch too low, and the sleeves are about 2 inches too long. The vest is 1.5 to 2 inches too long in front and at least 4 inches too long on the sides. And, as noted, the trousers look several inches too long.

 

[Lincsong]

Not bad looking. He got the labels right. Good choice.

 

[Tailor Tom]

I honestly think this is a very good "first" order. Specially when doing anything long distance. So I don't mean to tear apart your clothes, and I truly hope others are tactful in their suggestions as well.

When dealing in custom, or made-to-order, there is always a "learning curve" that you have to come to terms with. You need to start somewhere. And learn how to communicate with your tailor, or in this case a manufacturer on the other side of the world. If you are to order more in the future you can take any adjustments and changes into consideration and tell the shop what is needed. Really the pictures are your best resource for that. Send copies to the shop with any future order, so they know what you are talking about too. A picture is worth a thousand words...that works for interpretation of products too.

I always tell clients that this is a "process" and evolutionary. You will find it the same for you. Any critique that I gave for alterations are relatively minor. And can surely be addressed by your tailor.

Enjoy your suit.

 

[Annixter]

Tailor Tom, thanks for the input; it is polite and helpful criticism, so no worries on its good nature. The sleeve length is even, but I had the jacket cocked on my shoulders a little in the picture. They are longer than some like, but that is usually how I wear them. As for the break in the vest, it is probably due to my shoulder. My right shoulder slopes quit a bit more than my left, and MCT and I did as much work to get the suit tailored with this in mind; however, I expected there to still be some issue with that. That is something that my local tailor will need to tweak for me. The shirt in the pictures is an off the shelf fitted Arrow, and I've always had problems finding nice fitting clothing due to my slender build. I agree that it is too bulky in the arms for this suit, so the next step will be a custom shirt, or to have my tailor tweak the ones I have.

Tzedekh, I think the length issues you see are preference more than anything. The armholes could be a little higher, but they are very comfortable as is and much higher than any new suit I will find of comparable price. I think is is good to keep in mind that the suit wasn't made on me, and I'd rather have slightly low arm holes than ones that are too high. I enjoy comfort much more than idealistic style. The jacket length is fine with me, and there isn't anything I can do about my height to make the jacket look shorter. Vintage advertisements agree with this cut as far as arm length to jacket bottom, lapel, button, and pocket proportions go, and to shorten the jacket, I think, would make these proportions look out of skew. I'm no tailor, so I'm not sure how tailoring such things to shorter men works out.

I suppose the way I see it is that I expected there to be a need for my local tailor to tweak some things, just as I would have to do with an off the shelf suit, but I at least have something in the exact fabric I want, tailored closer to my figure than I could ever find in an off the shelf suit, and of a vintage look (more or less). I could be more critical of the suit, and I would if it were a $1,200 tailored-on-me suit as apposed to a $450 internet order suit, but I didn't expect that kind of suit when paying what I did and ordering over the internet. I don't mean to defend the suit just because it is my suit and my body; I merely want to point out that even if some things are not exactly what the larger norm wore, or wear, it is the best suit for its money I've ever owned, and I'm happy with it.

 

[Annixter]

Not bad looking. He got the labels right. Good choice.

Thanks. The lapels were a concern when ordering, as I could only supply MCT with advertisement photos and description of what I wanted. It's my first double breasted suit, which was another concern with how it would look on me.

 

[Dr Doran]

Looks quite good to me. Personally I like sleeves shorter on a jacket. The "skirt" of the jacket is a little long, but it looks to me as though it is in the acceptable range. The long end of the range, but within the range. Lapels look great. The trousers are long but that's a quick fix. I can see what Tzedekh said about the vest being a bit long, but it is not bothersomely long -- surely there should be some variation in such things.

Armholes are higher than some I've seen, and lower than others.

I think it's quite nice.

 

[Dr Doran]

Are you sure you cannot simply hitch the trousers higher? Are you wearing them low on your waist? Try that before getting them tailored. I'm sure you know this already, but just in case you don't: old suits were worn very, very high by today's standards. On many men, the waistband is worn a few inches above the navel.

 

[thunderw21]

A few things I've noticed.

In the first picture you posted the suit could easily be mistaken for a true vintage one: the lapels look right, the cut and drape are right, etc.

In the other pics it is apparent that it's modern (from the waist down). No problem with that unless you were going for a completely authentic vintage-styled suit and it doesn't sound like you were.

As others have said, the arms are a bit long and so is the jacket skirt, for my tastes at least. I think the long jacket skirt throws the proportions off a bit but not enough to make the suit unattractive. The longer jacket makes your torso look longer and your legs shorter: gives me a late-'40s/early-'50s Bold Look vibe. The jacket interior looks great, the armpit guards are a nice touch.
Try hiking up the trousers like Doran said and it may save you from spending extra $$ getting them altered. Remember, high waisted trousers are supposed to be slightly restricting in the 'man area'.
2" cuffs: good man.

Not a fan of the vest, but each to his own.

Nice choice on the fabric color and pattern. I'd like to handle the material and see the weight and drape but I can't so I won't comment on that portion. I will say, though, that the material looks good in the pics: not super wrinkly, has some body to it.

Could we see a pic or two of you wearing the trousers but not the jacket or vest? I definitely think those trousers can be hiked up.

I think it's a pretty good looking suit, especially since it is MTM and no fittings nor face to face meetings were made. Hope you are happy with it!

 

[GBR]

Very nice, it looks good on you.


The only exception is that the trousers appear a tad long. Maybe the other views without coat or waist coat would help to see why?

 

[Feraud]

The shirt in the pictures is an off the shelf fitted Arrow, and I've always had problems finding nice fitting clothing due to my slender build. I agree that it is too bulky in the arms for this suit, so the next step will be a custom shirt, or to have my tailor tweak the ones I have.

There are more than a few off the rack shirtmakers doing the popular fitted/slim cut shirts. Just be sure of your neck and sleeve length and go for it.

Per the below pic I would shorten the jacket sleeves and trouser legs and enjoy the suit!

 

[Tzedekh]

Annixter, I apologize that my comments came across as too harsh. I think you accomplished a significant achievement with an online suit, considering some of the horror stories I've read. Yours fits quite well, and the adjustments that I and others have indicated should be fairly straightforward should you decide to order another suit from MCT (assuming that they will do the changes correctly and not err somewhere else, which is a big IF with any tailor). I'm also impressed with how they matched the stripes at the lapel/collar seam. And as to my comments regarding the length of the vest, MCT isn't unique in the way they cut vests -- most online tailors make them too long on the sides, undoubtedly to cover the waistband of low-riding modern trousers. It's unfortunate that the measurement form doesn't permit you to specify a vest's side length or neck opening length. Or the coat sleeve inseam, which would help ensure higher armholes.

Again, I'm sorry that my comments seemed like an attack. Enjoy the suit.

 

[Charlie Huang]

My first thoughts are that the sleeves need to be shortened as well as the trousers.

 

[Annixter]

Annixter, I apologize that my comments came across as too harsh. I think you accomplished a significant achievement with an online suit, considering some of the horror stories I've read. Yours fits quite well, and the adjustments that I and others have indicated should be fairly straightforward should you decide to order another suit from MCT (assuming that they will do the changes correctly and not err somewhere else, which is a big IF with any tailor). I'm also impressed with how they matched the stripes at the lapel/collar seam. And as to my comments regarding the length of the vest, MCT isn't unique in the way they cut vests -- most online tailors make them too long on the sides, undoubtedly to cover the waistband of low-riding modern trousers. It's unfortunate that the measurement form doesn't permit you to specify a vest's side length or neck opening length. Or the coat sleeve inseam, which would help ensure higher armholes.

Again, I'm sorry that my comments seemed like an attack. Enjoy the suit.

No worries; I didn't take offense to the comments as much as thought I'd put my side in, so I apologize if I came off as being overly-defensive. I agree that I would have liked a shorter vest, but the order form for the vest was far too ambiguous, as are all their suit images. Frankly, I was worried about major issues, so I am pleased the suit is at least wearable. It was described as a "classic" vest, which led me to believe it would be of a more vintage cut; at least I have a well fitting suit to gauge from here on out, and I have all of the replies here for the proper changes for the next time I decide to have a truly vintage suit made. It was a difficult process, as I didn't have a vintage suit or well-fitting suit to go off of, so I could only get information off the Lounge, my body, and send pictures to MCT; I should have sent more pictures of vintage pants and vests.

As for hiking the trousers up: I can get them hiked up far enough to where the pants fall on the shoes where they should (so my overall length measurement is correct, but it is very restrictive in the crotch. I cannot fault MCT for this, as they are spot on with the U-Crutch measurement I gave; I thought I left plenty of room to get the pants up, but I guess I was wrong. I am contemplating having another pair of pants made with a longer U-Crutch, and then I can have the current pair altered; I'll have a pair of semi-high waist pants and a pair of vintage very-high waist pants.

 

[Feraud]

Does MCT pant measurements follow this one with regards to requesting a seat measurement?

From this thread -
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=48479

 

[Annixter]

Feraud, they follow most of those. Their measurement form is not specific when it comes to the circumference of the arms and the armhole placement, which was information I had to supply in the footnotes.

 

[BinkieBaumont]

I just received a "Telegram" advising , that Prince & Henry have sent my made to measure suit, so hopefully will post pictures and a full report very soon, I have spotted a perfect tie to go with it!"

http://www.princehenry.biz/

 

[BinkieBaumont]

"The Suit arrived a Month or so ago, I am happy that they did get the concept of high arm holes, "Prince & Henry" are returning to town in July to take orders and I will probably get another one made with six buttons, slightly wider lapels, in a beige prince of Wales check/plaid"

http://www.princehenry.biz/world-tour.html

 

[BinkieBaumont]

"Prince & Henry are back in town next weekend, I have an appointment with Mr Sethinamvong from Prince & Henry next Friday at 5.30 pm. I am thinking of getting a six button double breasted suit in a beige coloured 'Prince of wales" Plaid, and maybe a tie belt polo coat, in camel coloured fabric, they quoted me $450.00 for the coat last time they were in town"