On February 1st, I placed an order for a three-piece suit through mycustomtailor. I don't own any vintage suits, so I researched the lounge for descriptions, photos, and vintage advertisements before ordering. I am looking for a 1930's through 1940's style.
I went with one of their Premier series double-breasted suits with six buttons (two functional). None of their three-piece suit sets are double-breasted jackets, so I went with the one that looks closest to vintage. The material is Super 120 8.5 oz. 100% Italian wool in dark brown with light brown pinstripes. The liner is fully hand basted high-grade Bemberg. The pants have a high waist, button fly, single pleats, belt loops and suspender buttons, and 2" cuffs.
The vest is a traditional 6-button, and it is made of the same material as the jacket and pants. I opted for a Bemberg liner as well, although the back is wool and not silk. It has two lower pockets as apposed to the popular 4, but I have a shorter torso, and 4-pocket vests look to busy on me--vintage or not. However, I cannot help but think 2-pocket vests existed somewhere in America back then.
I had my measurements taken, and used a well-fitting modern suit for the jacket length, pants width, inseam, and waist/U crutch measurements. I even supplied them with my arm circumference at the shoulder, and the length from my armpit to the bottom of the jacket; hopefully this, with the other back and chest measurements, will be enough to get a proper, or close-to-proper, armhole size and height.
Their model photo has skinnier lapels than vintage, but I have no jacket to give them a specific measurement. I instead emailed them photos of vintage suits and asked that they reference them to make the lapels a little wider. I also emailed photos of me in the modern suit for reference to my build.
So far, my experience with them has been very good. We've communicated back and forth about three times, and, as far as their emails show, they appear to understand what I'm requesting. The order status shows that the suit is being completion, and it is scheduled to ship next week. Because I had to purchase the vest separate from the suit, it cost more than the three-piece packages. That extra cost added to the fully basted liner and shipping made the entire purchase a little more than I wanted to spend; however, it should be a very nice suit.
Below are the model, vest, and fabric photos.
I went with one of their Premier series double-breasted suits with six buttons (two functional). None of their three-piece suit sets are double-breasted jackets, so I went with the one that looks closest to vintage. The material is Super 120 8.5 oz. 100% Italian wool in dark brown with light brown pinstripes. The liner is fully hand basted high-grade Bemberg. The pants have a high waist, button fly, single pleats, belt loops and suspender buttons, and 2" cuffs.
The vest is a traditional 6-button, and it is made of the same material as the jacket and pants. I opted for a Bemberg liner as well, although the back is wool and not silk. It has two lower pockets as apposed to the popular 4, but I have a shorter torso, and 4-pocket vests look to busy on me--vintage or not. However, I cannot help but think 2-pocket vests existed somewhere in America back then.
I had my measurements taken, and used a well-fitting modern suit for the jacket length, pants width, inseam, and waist/U crutch measurements. I even supplied them with my arm circumference at the shoulder, and the length from my armpit to the bottom of the jacket; hopefully this, with the other back and chest measurements, will be enough to get a proper, or close-to-proper, armhole size and height.
Their model photo has skinnier lapels than vintage, but I have no jacket to give them a specific measurement. I instead emailed them photos of vintage suits and asked that they reference them to make the lapels a little wider. I also emailed photos of me in the modern suit for reference to my build.
So far, my experience with them has been very good. We've communicated back and forth about three times, and, as far as their emails show, they appear to understand what I'm requesting. The order status shows that the suit is being completion, and it is scheduled to ship next week. Because I had to purchase the vest separate from the suit, it cost more than the three-piece packages. That extra cost added to the fully basted liner and shipping made the entire purchase a little more than I wanted to spend; however, it should be a very nice suit.
Below are the model, vest, and fabric photos.