Yes, more Highwayman questions...

[sshack]

I'm sure this board must be tired of Highwayman questions, but you guys are such a great resource I hope you'll allow two or three more!

1) Should I get leather lined cuffs (on a FQHH Highwayman)? I'm guessing the benefits are: longer lasting cuffs, the lining doesn't get worn out. And the cons would be that your cuffs are thicker and maybe it's harder to get your shirt sleeve through the cuffs without riding up.

2) Should I opt for the leather strip on the inner lining? I've noticed this is a popular option, but one that seems expensive (it's like fifty pounds, rights?). I understand why some would recommend it (to deter lining sag/wear), but is it worth the price? Any regrets from someone who got it?

3) I requested moleskin lined pockets. Should I opt for corduroy instead? I like the look/feel of moleskin, but what will last longer?

4) I was given the option by Aero to taper each side of my jacket by 1" for a total of 2." Why? Because I have broad shoulders and normal waist. My chest measures 44.5" and my waist measures 36 inches (not pants size). I told Aero that most of my jackets fit my shoulders (approx 20" from seam to seam) but are too loose in the body-- hence the possible solution of tapering each side by 1." Should I go for the taper? Will this change the look of the jacket? I don't know how roomy a normal highwayman is...

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[mattp]

With the sleeves I can't comment on the Highwayman sleeves, I've only tried a cafe racer with the leather lined cuffs, which made them too stiff and uncomfortable for my liking.
I opted for the leather facing on the hem to prevent sagging of the lining, but if you wanted the same sort of effect without the cost I believe corduroy can be used as a no cost option. Be aware that any leather facing your clothing will increase the odds of colour bleeding from your jacket to whatever you're wearing. I ended up with brown stains on my white t-shirt from the kidney panel on my cafe racer (which did wash out, but not a good look!).
I have moleskin lining in my pockets, and I think you'd be hard pressed to wear through them. I've also got some moleskin trousers, and they are the toughest I own. There's a reason farmers and stockmen in Australia made it the material of choice for their workwear.

 

[ando.thun]

Go for the tapering. The Highwayman has a rather boxy design. I haven't got your shoulders but I have to pull the adjusting straps fully in.

For me the Highwayman works without the additional leather in the cuffs and the strip on the lining. If you ever wear the leather ot the lining out you can get a new one and the add the strip.

But if you check with the other loungers you will see that most get a second or third jacket long before the worn out their first...

 

[nicholasb]

The jacket is expensive enough as it is. I would not add any extra leather on. Save the money and if ever you do need a repair then spend the money.

I would go for the moleskin. Should be fine and the fact that you like it is most important.

Tapering could work but I couldn't really advise. Its worth asking the questions as its quite an investment.

 

[HorseHide]

Yes to the leather strip in the lining (aside from protecting & adding to the life of the lining the coat looks more "complete" with it), no to the leather lined cuffs (although it will add to the life of the sleeve lining it doesn't work as well IMO as it does on a jacket with the button cuffs like the 30s half-belt). Unless you are in the mountains of CA I would say that the corduroy pockets are unnecessary.

Tapering is a personal preference but the coat is boxy so the taper sounds like it will help. Also, ask about the stock length of the jacket in your size and make sure you are comfortable with that length - I have finally come to the conclusion that I prefer a Highwayman with 2 extra inches of length (and I'm only 5'9").

 

[schitzo]

I had a default highwayman and never noticed the cuffs so I'm saying cuffs and pockets should be fine as they are. Regarding a leather strap my opinion is if you want a strap, which personally I wouldn't bother with, get one in corduroy for free. Concerning extra length my thoughts are that with a jacket in FQHH it should be as short as you can accept as given the nature of the beast (FQHH) you don't want any extra weight to shoulder. That said I'm not sure what the default length is so Horsehide may well be right about adding to it. For reference, I'm just under 6,2 and the ideal length for me is 26.5"

All the best
Schitz

PS an inside snap closure pocket is useful

 

[Edward]

If you're worried about the jacket being too boxy, I would be inclined to suggest you might consider an alternative jacket model. The HWM is a boxy design by its nature - as were the original late fifties jackets on which it is based. For comparison, this is a Highwayman, size 42R:

An A2, also in a size 42R, looks like this:

42R Bootlegger (to the best of my knowledge, this is the same basic jacket as the 50s Halfbelt, with a different front, and on mine with button cuffs also):

Unfortunately I have no photos of this one worn fastened, but it's slightly roomier than the 30s Halfbelt, and definitely neater than the HWM

Finally, Thirties halfbelt, again an Aero Size 42R:

The Thirties halfbelt is the neatest pattern I have, and this side of losing a couple of stone, as slim a fit as I can go without getting ridiculous or going up a size.

You may be just fine with the HWM with two inches off the waist, but if boxiness is something that concerns you it would be worth talking to Amanda about one of the more tapered patterns.

 

[mattp]

Edward makes a good point regarding fit, after much deliberating over how to achieve a more fitted Highwayman I ended up ordering a cafe racer with a collar and a few other mods, as I know this is a style that will fit me perfectly and fulfil what I want from my next jacket. Will it scratch the itch for a Highwayman? Only time will tell!

 

[JakeHolman]

The Ironheart/Aero collaboration is pretty much a cafe racer with collar - http://www.ironheart.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=281. Would probably look good with an athletic build.

I'd echo Nicolasb - it's going to be years until the linings sag or need repair, especially the hard-wearing cotton drill. There is possibly more of a case for the leather strip with the wool or tweed linings.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I'm sure this board must be tired of Highwayman questions, but you guys are such a great resource I hope you'll allow two or three more!

1) Should I get leather lined cuffs (on a FQHH Highwayman)? I'm guessing the benefits are: longer lasting cuffs, the lining doesn't get worn out. And the cons would be that your cuffs are thicker and maybe it's harder to get your shirt sleeve through the cuffs without riding up.

2) Should I opt for the leather strip on the inner lining? I've noticed this is a popular option, but one that seems expensive (it's like fifty pounds, rights?). I understand why some would recommend it (to deter lining sag/wear), but is it worth the price? Any regrets from someone who got it?

3) I requested moleskin lined pockets. Should I opt for corduroy instead? I like the look/feel of moleskin, but what will last longer?

4) I was given the option by Aero to taper each side of my jacket by 1" for a total of 2." Why? Because I have broad shoulders and normal waist. My chest measures 44.5" and my waist measures 36 inches (not pants size). I told Aero that most of my jackets fit my shoulders but are too loose in the body-- hence the possible solution of tapering each side by 1." Should I go for the taper? Will this change the look of the jacket? I don't know how roomy a normal highwayman is...

Thanks in advance!!!!

I think I bought my first Aero (Highwayman) in 2000 or 2001. Regular cuffs. Although I've worn it every fall...winter..spring...still no wear to cuff lining(drill).
No wear or sag in lining (Alcapa).
Normal pocket lining. Tough as nails.

I agree that it seems tapering would be good for your build. I also added sleeve and body length..since I am tall.
Since 2000 I have purchased the Highwayman..several '30s HalfBelts...Bootlegger..and Stuart. Some have leather lined cuffs..others don't. Both work without problems for me.
I just can't see adding these extras(especially if there is cost). Sizing alterations are most important to me. Now if my linings..pockets..and cuffs were wearing out like crazy..I'd have tried some along the way on new jackets. As it stands with me after 12yrs...Aero's standard linings...pockets..and cuffs show no weak spots 'for me'.
HD

 

[Edward]

HD, do you ever find them getting grubby? I ordered button cuffs on my Bootlegger (which was my first Aero). Didn't specficy which type as I didn't know there was a difference. What came were the leather lined ones (as found on the Halfbelt Deluxe). When I bought my halbelt, it came with the standard type. I find no practical difference - no discomfort with either type. I was a little concerned the non-leather lined ones might get grubby with use, but so far not an issue.

 

[sshack]

Everyone, thanks for all the advice. As always, a great help and resource! Now I've just got to digest them and consult once more with Aero... Lol, I thought I was done! This is what happens when there's a 10 week waiting period...

 

[jglf]

Go for the 1" tapering. I am 5'9" with a 43" chest and 35" waist and the size 42 with tapering fits me perfectly in the chest and waist. I am a heavy lifter with large arms and shoulders, and I can probably fit a thin sweater underneath the jacket. The sateen overlay in the arms helps a lot. I don't layer under this jacket and it is very neat fitting.

 

[sshack]

Go for the 1" tapering. I am 5'9" with a 43" chest and 35" waist and the size 42 with tapering fits me perfectly in the chest and waist. I am a heavy lifter with large arms and shoulders, and I can probably fit a thin sweater underneath the jacket. The sateen overlay in the arms helps a lot. I don't layer under this jacket and it is very neat fitting.

Hi, Jgif. How much did you get your jacket tapered? What setting do you put the side buckles on? I'm 5'10" so we're pretty close in size. Did you ask for a size 42 or was it recommended to you? Thanks!

 

[jglf]

I got it tapered 1'' on each side. Amanda recommended a size 42 with small turnings and tapering(I believe the small turnings makes the chest a little roomier). I didn't choose the small turnings since I only wear a cotton shirt underneath. The belts are cinched about half way to get a trim fit around the waist. I can email you some pictures of how the jacket fits. I don't think I have enough posts to paste it on here.

 

[sshack]

jglf, can you turn on your private messages so I can give you my email? Thanks!

 

[rocketeer]

Hi all. I have a used Highwayman with one of the earliest labels so guess the jacket is 20-25 years old. It looks pretty beat up but has no wear to the inside of the cuffs and after all that time will it ever really get much worse?
As to the tapered body, the Aero site advises against altering designs from the original, so, it Aero say maybe a taper will work for you then it probably will.
The leather strip? My Highwayman around 8 years old has worn through the lining were the side straps are, from rubbing against my hips/belt area, my 6 year old jacket has fared slightly better as I had it made 1 inch longer in the body and the earlier jacket was an off the peg.
Just my experience. Cheers, John

 

[sshack]

The Ironheart/Aero collaboration is pretty much a cafe racer with collar - http://www.ironheart.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=281. Would probably look good with an athletic build.

I'd echo Nicolasb - it's going to be years until the linings sag or need repair, especially the hard-wearing cotton drill. There is possibly more of a case for the leather strip with the wool or tweed linings.

Yes, this Ironheart jacket is really cool, and I can definitely see the more athletic cut. But-- I don't ride a motorcycle and this Ironheart jacket has design features that seem to be more geared towards riders. I think I would feel a little weird wearing it... maybe it's just me. That's why I like the Highwayman-- I'm sure some riders wear it, but it doesn't look like it's only for bike riders. Basically, it's more casual.

 

[sshack]

Hi all. I have a used Highwayman with one of the earliest labels so guess the jacket is 20-25 years old. It looks pretty beat up but has no wear to the inside of the cuffs and after all that time will it ever really get much worse?
As to the tapered body, the Aero site advises against altering designs from the original, so, it Aero say maybe a taper will work for you then it probably will.
The leather strip? My Highwayman around 8 years old has worn through the lining were the side straps are, from rubbing against my hips/belt area, my 6 year old jacket has fared slightly better as I had it made 1 inch longer in the body and the earlier jacket was an off the peg.
Just my experience. Cheers, John

Thanks, John. Glad to hear that your old Highwayman didn't need that leather strip or the leather cuffs. I think the strip looks cool, but not worth the price, especially if the lining does fine without it. BTW-- what kind of lining do you have? I'm going with a Tartan, so maybe it's a different situation.

 

[Davy Crockett]

Just remember the tartans are available in three different weights, If you don't specify you get the lightest weight, which if you are west coast may be best!

D