Ye Old Cotton Drill Lining Thread

[AeroFan_07]

It had to happen sometime. I favor this lining for nearly any jacket these days. Tough, durable, lightweight and nice to look at. It's a simple, straightforward option in Aero's and many other brands of jackets. I love the wool and sateen's too, but I thought a thread on this working class material would be helpful for those deciding upon what they want in thier next jacket. Post photos, ideals, an even drawbacks, if you have them...

Here is the black cotton drill out of my '30 Half Belt,it's 5 years old this year and has seen a lot of use.

View attachment 229419

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Yes i like this alot. I actually think i have a sb cafe racer with this lining.

 

[navetsea]

Cotton twill is quite strong, its basically step brother to denim just different in dyeing. I find cotton pique is also strong, and airy, a raw cut wont fray, all sound perfect for lining.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I love cotton drill. Is cotton twill a different fabric? I know the quality depends who makes it. The Aero 9.7oz stuff is great. I had some thick drill sourced here that started to wear through in a year. Generally I'm not aware of anything lasting longer or working harder than cotton drill. I have a half-belt with wool tartan and while it looks great, I have my doubts about its staying power. That 10 year old first post looks amazing.

 

[Benny Holiday]

Twill is a lighter shirt- weight fabric. Magnoli Clothiers have it available in a good range of colours, I've commissioned some 40s-style flap pocket shirts from them in cotton twill & it's much easier to wash and iron than nylon gaberdine.

 

[zebedee]

I have this in black or olive in the majority of my Aero jackets. I prefer it to the tartan and it seems to be more durable.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I actually do not like cotton drill as a liner material at all. To me, there are more comfortable lighter weight liners if needed like silk, sateen, and rayon and I actually prefer wool or flannel liners otherwise. I just find cotton drill quite stiff and uncomfortable.

The full silk (including the arms) on my RMC and the fully flannel liners (including arms) on my Freewheelers are so much more comfortable to me than the cotton drill on my Himel and Diamond Dave jackets.

 

[handymike]

I agree with @dudewuttheheck.
The two most comfortable liners I’ve had are a full silk in my Kehoe/ and a lightweight fuzzy buffalo plaid tartan that felt like a well worn flannel shirt in my old Highwayman.
I have had cotton drill in the sleeves of 2 premier Aeros, and it gives me a rash/ bruises me on the insides of my elbows with the trim sleeves.
How about pocket liners? Moleskin all the way!

 

[Colin G]

Cotton drill fan here. I really dislike flannel as a liner, for shirts, sheets or pretty much anything. Melton wool is OK but not in the sleeves as I get too hot with a full wool liner.

 

[dubpynchon]

I have black cotton drill in one of mine as well, it pairs well with black sateen for the sleeves.
Moleskin for pockets is a great choice, I think my Thunderbay has that, along with nice deep pockets.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I actually do not like cotton drill as a liner material at all. To me, there are more comfortable lighter weight liners if needed like silk, sateen, and rayon and I actually prefer wool or flannel liners otherwise. I just find cotton drill quite stiff and uncomfortable.

The full silk (including the arms) on my RMC and the fully flannel liners (including arms) on my Freewheelers are so much more comfortable to me than the cotton drill on my Himel and Diamond Dave jackets.

That's interesting. I can feel absolutely no difference between linings when worn.

 

[AlexB]

I also love the drill. I went for Cotton Sateen with my second Aero and went straight back to the cotton drill with jacket #3. I think it is comfortable, wearable in various temperatures and as mentioned pretty durable. I do not like thinner, softer material with the thick HH leather.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I agree with @dudewuttheheck.
The two most comfortable liners I’ve had are a full silk in my Kehoe/ and a lightweight fuzzy buffalo plaid tartan that felt like a well worn flannel shirt in my old Highwayman.
I have had cotton drill in the sleeves of 2 premier Aeros, and it gives me a rash/ bruises me on the insides of my elbows with the trim sleeves.
How about pocket liners? Moleskin all the way!

Moleskin pocket liners are amazing. I haven't had that bad of an experience with cotton drill, but I definitely would not get a jacket with it again unless I really desperately wanted the jacket and had no choice.

That's interesting. I can feel absolutely no difference between linings when worn.

Hey that's great! I wish that was my case. It's not as bad if I'm wearing long sleeves, but it is not comfortable when wearing short sleeves.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Most of my jackets have the moleskin pockets. No issues with them at all!

 

[navetsea]

I wear long sleeve under my jacket most time so it doesn't really matter how they feel against skin, but this made me thinking, since the inside of the fabric usually made softer or flatter or feel nicer on the skin but the color and texture is usually duller, so perhaps on a jacket it is wiser to do the same, having the backside of the fabric facing out, sure it will look duller, but the fabric is designed that way for nicer feel against skin. and let the stronger side (the top side) facing against the leather edges and suede to last longer

 

[KissMyMuscle]

Is cotton more breathable and cooler than rayon?

 

[navetsea]

Cotton is more breatable yes, rayon is "fake" silk made from selulose or something not very absorbing and while at first feels nice smooth and cool, will soon feel sticky if you perspire. While smooth but if you happen to snag it with something Like car key or sharp edges of jeans leather patch it relatively easily to get scratched.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Cotton is more breatable yes, rayon is "fake" silk made from selulose or something not very absorbing and while at first feels nice smooth and cool, will soon feel sticky if you perspire. While smooth but if you happen to snag it with something Like car key or sharp edges of jeans leather patch it relatively easily to get scratched.

Yep. But there is good quality rayon that wears pretty well. I like Bemberg Japanese made rayon. It's superb. But for a leather jacket, why use anything but hard wearing cotton drill?

 

[navetsea]

But isnt cellulose a fire hazard

 

[Drdan]

This is a very useful thread; thanks so much to those who've contributed.

I have several leather jackets lined in cotton drill, and as noted, it's an excellent material. However, being that I oftentimes wear a lightweight cashmere sweater underneath, I'd prefer something a bit more "slippery" for the sleeves.

I'm eyeing either an Aero or SB Half Belt... Vintage 30's HB's have relatively streamlined sleeves, so it's probably best to plan for an alternative sleeve lining material... Any suggestions would be most appreciated. SB might even allow me to supply the material, so any options could be considered.

Thank you.