WTB Highwayman/Halfbelt/Similar ~size 40-42

[Duradek]

Hi all,

I am brand new to this forum. I have been lurking for a while and just created an account.

I have decided that I would like to make my first foray into leather jackets and I think that buying used would be my best option right now. I am interested in a highwayman or halfbelt or similar style of jacket.

I am not 100% sure on sizing, I think probably closer to a 40 would be best. I tried a Schott on when I was in NYC recently, and 42 was a bit loose from what I would prefer. That being said, I am quite skinny right now with covid and not working out. I am hoping to put on a bit of weight over the next year or so, but it would not be too much.

Looking to spend sub 1000CAD (less is more for me as I am concerned about getting the sizing wrong). Not particular to any brand or makeup, just looking to buy a nice jacket in general. I do like the look of Badalassi and Shinki leathers, but realize that this budget may be a bit low for jackets made with these leathers, not to mention many other leathers look great as well.

 

[AeroFan_07]

So - there have been some issues with brand-new folks posting here in the classifieds in this subject area. This thread should be in the Outerwear section - @Edward, @Peacoat - could this be moved there?

It would be best to review existing threads. You can start here - this topic has been discussed many times:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...leeve-highwayman-database.99955/#post-2659421

 

[Edward]

Hi @Duradek , welcome to our world!

I've moved this thread to Outerwear as it sounds like you're still very much at the stage of figuring out what your options are, and as @AeroFan_07 has noted, you'll be likely to get a bit more eyeball and thus advice over here.

One thing I'd start with is having a look at as many different brands who do these jackets as possible - Aero, Eastman, Thedi.... - to get an idea of the sort of thing you're after. Around the sort of budget you're looking at, for many of the labels we like around here you'll be looking at used. Once you've figured the sizing out, though, that can be a good way of finding something nice with patience. The fact you've not (at least as of yet) set your heart on a specific model or make will be an advantage there.

One option to consider if you'd prefer to buy new is SJC's leather 33, in heavy goat, a good hide imo:

https://simonjamescathcart.com/coll...E0tZiHbU1_z0J9mssTmw6R-gbcwLpIeu7iBL_4MRpRol4

I don't know for sure where Simon is having these made (much of his tailoring now is made in England, but I suspect at this price they're being made in the Near or Far East), but my experience with SJC stuff has been that it's good. There was a lot of positive feedback about his first run of leathers, so this could be - price wise, without intending any slight on its quality - a good "entry level" option for your first jacket if you want to go new without spending big.

In terms of measurements, I tend myself to find if I want to wear a Winter sweater underneath, I need to go for 50" pit to pit (which is typically anywhere between a 44 and a 48 depending on how the company size), or 48" if it's a jacket I want to wear the way I would a blazer - i.e. over just a shirt or shirt plus waistcoat type of thing. Think about your bodyshape here: I have made the mistake in the past of looking at a jacket that fitted on the shoulders, but was too narrow at the waist.

Enjoy the hunt - and be wary: we're a right bunch of enablers round here.

 

[Duradek]

Hi @Edward ,

Thanks for the info!

From what I've read about the Highwayman, it can be a difficult jacket to size. Why specifically is this? I know that ordering new from Aero can be difficult as their measurements can vary. However, if you were ordering something used where you knew the measurements this problem would be avoided. I assume it's to do with the design/cut of the jacket, where do people usually have the most issues with these in the fit?

If I am concerned about fit, are there jackets/designs that might be considered more forgiving for me to look into for my first?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Have you tried searching? I provided a link above, and there is a lot of documetation on this here...

 

[Robbie79]

Hi @Edward ,

Thanks for the info!

From what I've read about the Highwayman, it can be a difficult jacket to size. Why specifically is this? I know that ordering new from Aero can be difficult as their measurements can vary. However, if you were ordering something used where you knew the measurements this problem would be avoided. I assume it's to do with the design/cut of the jacket, where do people usually have the most issues with these in the fit?

If I am concerned about fit, are there jackets/designs that might be considered more forgiving for me to look into for my first?

Welcome to the lounge. I‘ve owned about 15 Aero jackets (Badalassi is still my favorite of their leathers but their jerky horsehide is very underrated IMO and not much break-in is needed which also applies for their Vicenza. CxL is probably too heavy for you as you mentioned Badalassi and Shinki) the past and did order my first 3-4 at once. I sent them my body measurements but it turned out that their 50s patterns are more loose fit compared to 30s /Premier range fits. For instance I need size 36 Highwayman (I prefer tight fit) -> my first quality leather jacket was size 38 Highwayman (way too big), size 40 Bordracer (also tight fit), size 38 Premier Range (in some cases 40). As a reference you can have a look on their Sale section maybe you find something there and can ask them before) where they mention the correct jacket dimensions and compare with jackets which do fit you. For instance my chest is about 103cm wearing a thin shirt. Aero or SB (if you don’t mind about their history) are definitely a good starting point for a first quality jacket. If you want to be on the safe side, contact Carrie @thurstonbros (I’ve often heard that her customer service is excellent) and do a custom order. Unfortunately, Aero didn’t tell me of their rather loose fits when ordering first - I sold all of them in the meantime (I kept my weight stable).
Enjoy the journey!
Cheers,
Robbie

 

[Edward]

Hi @Edward ,

Thanks for the info!

From what I've read about the Highwayman, it can be a difficult jacket to size. Why specifically is this? I know that ordering new from Aero can be difficult as their measurements can vary. However, if you were ordering something used where you knew the measurements this problem would be avoided. I assume it's to do with the design/cut of the jacket, where do people usually have the most issues with these in the fit?

If I am concerned about fit, are there jackets/designs that might be considered more forgiving for me to look into for my first?

It's not so much a difficult jacket to size, as a lot of folks imo want to make it what it isn't. The Highwayman is, by design, a boxier jacket; it is designed to have a fairly loose fit. A lot of folks like the general design of it, but want to size down to get a slimmer fit, which just doesn't work: go several sizes down in a jacket designed to to boxy, you end up not with a slim fitting jacket, but a jacket that is boxy by design which is too small.

The best way to get an idea of any Aero is to talk to them - if you like the look of a specific model but are concerned about the fit, they can advise, or steer you towards a different one that might be more what you're after. My HWM is one of my most-worn jackets, and it's nice to be able when required to fit a sweater under it (not an option with all my leathers). The 59er Highwayman is very slightly neater (a reproduction of a 1959 Rivett's of Leytonstone Highwayman jacket, the archetypal 'ton up' design. Lewis Leathers did their version of the style as the Corsair / Dominator models, which they introduced in 1962), worth looking at; I believe the 30s Highwayman (a reinterpretation of that 50s style jacket had it appeared in the 30s) in the Premier range is a touch neater again. There's also the..... uh... .blanking on the name of it now, but it's the cafe racer model with a shirt collar, that came about from folks who at a time wanted a neater fitting jacket with the overall 'clean' vibe of the Highwayman.

If you're in the US, going through Insurrection / Thurston in Seattle can also be a good option with their 'fit jacket' service.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Here's another good thread with great information for you:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/need-help-with-highwayman-sizing.100754/#post-2679848

From Edward: There's also the..... uh... .blanking on the name of it now, but it's the cafe racer model with a shirt collar, that came about from folks who at a time wanted a neater fitting jacket with the overall 'clean' vibe of the Highwayman.

That is the Sheene - offered by Thruston Brothers