WTB/Help wanted to build my winter heavy leather jacket

[MrProper]

@MrProper could you further elaborate on the jacket you posted? What were its flaws, strength? What would you change if you had the chance? It's so unfortunate this didn't work out!

I've become fixated on shearling, but if I were to have a jacket like this made again, it would definitely be with a softer and lighter leather. Maybe kelpie or goat?
And next there would have to be a wind flap so the fur overlaps the zipper. Should mean that there is then no cold bridge.
So from the principle the construction that is also used for shearling jackets.
I have an Irvin, a D-1 and a B-6 is ordered. That bridges the cold season perfectly until normal leather jackets can be worn again. lol

 

[Aloysius]

I am still hesitating for the leather though, since CXSH might be too stiff in the cold. Maybe the Black Steer Badalassi? But man do I hate its squeaking.

The black goat would be a far better choice, in my opinion.

The reason to put up with the squeaking of the Badalassi is the depth of colour. (And that still wouldn't be enough for me to put up with it.) If you're going black, there are many other choices.

Aero's goat has a beautiful, lustrous finish. The oddly named "Jerky horse" has the drape and temper of a vintage prewar horsehide. Both of these have amazing weather resistance.

I have worn an Aero goat jacket with quilted rayon/wool lining in a snowstorm, comfortably, as well as in much less cold temperatures. it is very versatile.

Anyway, whatever you do, remember the cardinal rule: Never buy "LC Schott" (fake Schotts made by Schott's French dealer).

 

[Canuck Panda]

First of all,
Thank you so much for all of your inputs and suggestions, they have all been very helpful!

For context, I intend to use the jacket during colder autumn/winter days while commuting in public transportation, while going on a stroll in the city, going to the restaurant or at the bar. I live in Strasbourg, Northeastern part of France where the weather is usually colder than Paris.

To sum up, here's what I gathered:

- Highly unrecommended to pair super thick leather with sheepskin due to piss poor mobility and restrictiveness, and greasy ones during (very) cold winters due to stiffness.

- Used ones with my exact specs are scarce, if non-existent. If I were to go through with my whims I could have to go custom. Otherwise as stated by you folks, there are models like LL Beans' Flying Tiger or Schott's 674 that may suit me.

- Aero Happy Days is a jacket and not a coat per se, meaning that I should expect a rather short length for a winter jacket.

- B-6 may be my very best alternative for a trim, modern fit shearling harsh winter leather jacket/coat.

From this broad and quick sum up, I think I will still go for the Happy Days as my colder days, "oversized" counterpart to my slim fitting thinner Catoosa.
However, my final lining will be quilted (rayon or cotton) and not shearling, as suggested by your comments and inputs.
I am still hesitating for the leather though, since CXSH might be too stiff in the cold. Maybe the Black Steer Badalassi? But man do I hate its squeaking.

As for my very cold winter jacket, I'll probably go for a B-6 somewhere down in the future, as you guys said and from what I've seen, will probably be my best bet for very sub zero temps.

Finally, the LL Beans' Flying Tiger is pretty much what I am looking for (warm, Flight bomber style), save for simple hand warmer pockets instead of the "A-2" ones.

Some additional things to keep in mind when building an ultimate leather winter jacket,
1) CXSH jacket weighs about 6 lbs on the lighter side, 8+ lbs on the heavier side. My size 40 CXSH Highwayman is just under 7lbs.
2) CXL is not bad for winter use. If you keep it inside where there is heat it will not get stiff. Once it's warmed up (takes about 5 minutes from stiff cold), it will stay just as pliable as all the other leather just thicker and feel more robust. The first 5 minute is the worst then all good.
3) The heavy weight is not an issue when you are wearing it, but when you're not wearing it. The reason I tend not to reach for the heavy jacket is because everyone cranks up the heat on full blast on those cold days. This means I am constantly taking it off and putting it on and carrying it around. Imagine carrying a 10 lb weight around for most of the day. Some people want the extra exercise so if you're ok with this then the weight is not an issue.
4) The low armhole / armpit on pattern is a problem. But if you are going for the bomber jacket type this should not be an issue as the sleeves goes into the body in a T shape, you don't want the usual front rotated sleeves on the normal leather jackets.
5) I was building an ultimate winter jacket myself just last week and got sent back to the drawing board. I was gonna do the PHwyman with shearling lining but was told the high armhole wouldn't work. I hadn't thought much but your bomber idea will solve this issue.
6) There are three thickness of shearling, thin 1/2", medium 3/4", and thick 1". They use the thin 1/2" for lining. I've read here in this forum about a Thunderbay jacket with that liner and the owner Guppy was expecting thicker. I would also ask for 3/4" thick at least. Aero probably would shoot me down for the 1" but I wouldn't want just 1/2" either, the quilted will probably be close to the 1/2" warmth anyways.
7) There is Pinnacle Horsehide. It is also from Horween, same tannery that makes the CXL stuff. Pinnacle is suppose to be very soft. It could be a good candidate. I know I would want horsehide over steerhide for its density but I am biased there.
8) Aero once made me a reversible bomber jacket (waterfront). I grew out of it but I always loved that bomber. If that is shearling lined and reversible. BOOM! Grizzly bomber when its gets warmer, and leather bomber when I need the shearling to keep the heat in. The greatest travel/winter jacket... Although this might be more up JL's alley as the amount of modern customization.... Or even Shawn but his fur prices are quite high...

 

[MrProper]

CXL is not bad for winter use. If you keep it inside where there is heat it will not get stiff. Once it's warmed up (takes about 5 minutes from stiff cold), it will stay just as pliable as all the other leather just thicker and feel more robust. The first 5 minute is the worst then all good.

Then there must be differences in the CXL. In my case, the body heat was not enough to make the CXL soft enough when it was really cold. Perhaps that was also due to the shearling lining, because this probably gives off less heat to the outside.

 

[Craig from Craigslist]

My 2 cents: I know it was mentioned earlier but imo I usually opt for an N-1 if the temperature is cold enough. I have a mouton lined Dehen N-1 that has worn just fine in the single digits Fahrenheit. If you're really set on leather though, there are a couple nice leather N-1 jackets I can think of off the top of my head. Schott used to do a leather N-1 with a wool blanket lining which you might be able to find used and Y'2 does a leather N-1 with an alpaca/wool blend pile lining. They're great for some of the same reasons you might like a civilian bomber jacket from Schott or LL Bean, which I also really like, but you mentioned that you didn't want to worry about your shirt tail sticking out the bottom and I'm sure that can be a problem with any bomber jacket if you don't plan on tucking your shirts in regularly. The N-1 is usually a tad longer and without a bottom hem it at least won't look so weird if it does happen. In any case, I agree with what others are saying that going custom out the gate probably will just lead to a lot of e-mails and minor disappointment. Good luck with the search!

 

[dmoser1978]

Hello TFL,

I come to you folks for advice after scouring makers upon makers, second-hand marketplaces and Paris thrift stores.
Some of you may have seen me in the "ask a question get an answer" thread asking about a vintage heavy FQHH Grais with quilted lining in my quest for my winter/colder days jacket. Unfortunately, this hasn't worked out for me, as I am not too fond of the boxy vintage silhouette.
Guess I am a sucker for more modern, fashion oriented cuts.
But here's the thing: I love great, full grain leathers of vintage repro makers, which is why I am drooling over Aero's Steerhide Chromexcel and Lost Worlds 4Oz+ FQHH for my heavy leather dreams.

This is where I need your help: I have heaps of questions, but don't wish to flood the questions thread.
Most importantly, I am prioritizing buying used. If it isn't possible, then I'll go the new route to finally sooth the itch.

1) I love the "Bomber Jacket" style. Aero's "Happy Days" is to me the perfect complement to my other slim fitting, used in warmer days, Izumiya Shinki HH jacket. I'll probably be ditching the epaulets though, as I prefer the cleaner look. Lost Worlds' Civilian A-2 also seems to do the job.
Do you think this is feasible and compatible with the following requirements?

2) I want heavy, thick leather. I already have a 1.2mm midweight jacket mentioned above. The beefier the better, hence my interest for LW and CXSH. Probably in black to be more versatile with my general outfits.
Any other suggestions or counterarguments to such a choice for the intended use?

3) I wish to have it lined with insulated lining. My two choices are either sheepskin or quilted lining.
What would be the range of temperature for each of them? I fairly love the cold, so this will be a jacket I wish to wear from 9°C with a T-shirt to -10°C with layers before grabbing my down puffer jacket.

4) A back long enough to close the jacket without seeing the t-shirt or layers poking out and saying hi from below.

5) Detachable sheep fur collar, yay or nay for warmth? durability?

6) This is completely optional but I'm putting this out there just in case:
For increased mobility, do you think a bi-swing back is possible for such a jacket from those makers or others? From what I've gathered, Stu will probably tell me to go suck an egg.

TLDR: I wish to have a super heavy leather jacket, Bomber style (think Happy Days), no epaulets with (very?) warm lining, and none of the boxiness of A-2s. Round doesn't bother as much as Square, au contraire.

Here are some pics from other makers of what I am looking for in terms of fit/silhouette, but unfortunately not for my other requirements. The satchel and Page one would have been my choice if they were lined with either of the above-mentioned linings and made with super duper heavy quality leather.

Hi, I had a custom flight jacket with a sheepskin lining made by US Authentic. Turned out really nice!

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...t-jacket-schott-674-copy.106658/#post-2887276

 

[bolted]

Unfortunately a day late, but it is an example of current data.
Folks here seem to know deals, steals and how to sew.
Selling one off later covers the cost of everything. -imo-
I’d bet at least one coats genuine, ..probably both.
One needs a front closure zipper, no a big deal.

This one deals over just yesterday.-

2x Schott Flight Leather Jacket Jackets Lederjacke Aviator A-2 USAF Size 48 | eBay

Schott_leather_jacket leather_jacket bomber_jacket army_jacket military_jacket air_force_leather_jacket bomber_leather_jacket service_leather_jacket ma1_leather_jacket ma1_jacket lederjacke army_lederjacke bomber_lederjacke schott_flight_leather_jacket flight_leather_jacket a-2_jacket a2...

www.ebay.com

(262 transactions with 100% ratings certainly a consideration)

 

[bolted]

I’d add one thing.
I’m probably late to the party.
Animal Leather is a 400,000 yrs old commodity.

Today, vegan, is as in not animal skins products.
To me anything not animal is pleather.
Cactus-mangos-etc. fibrous plants are not skins.

Plastic or other based pleathers. No thanks.
Chemical based products do not breath.
They use PVC, PU or zinc, cactus, I guess I’m late.

Good luck.....
Leatherworkingroup.org-