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Wool lining in a coat/jacket?

Velahrn

New in Town
Messages
4
Location
Warsaw, Poland
Hello

I am thinking about ordering a bespoke coat, possibly balmacaan or raglan coat. My tailor usually use viscose or silk for a lining, but I have an idea to use smooth, worsted wool instead. So I have some questions to you guys:

1. Have you ever met a coat lined in wool? Maybe do you own one? I guess that it was more common in vintage pieces than nowadays.
2. Do you think that's a good idea to use wool as a lining? I saw some minor projects, like youtuber's Iron Snail's mammoth coat, or Carl Murawski's co-op with Heat Straps, using wool as a lining in their coats.

I am eager to hear your opinions!
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,362
Location
claremont california
Wool in top of the line lining. I personally love it. Wood is a quality feature in most coast. I live in hot S. Cal weather and wool is my prefer choice. Back on the day, wool was a touch of quality. As jackets production progress wool was only used by the better quality makers. There is nothing wrong with other linings but wool still king of lining fabrics in my book. Lastly, a quality built jacket trimmer looks wear so much better in my opinion than quilted repurpose wool lining.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,993
Hello

I am thinking about ordering a bespoke coat, possibly balmacaan or raglan coat. My tailor usually use viscose or silk for a lining, but I have an idea to use smooth, worsted wool instead. So I have some questions to you guys:

1. Have you ever met a coat lined in wool? Maybe do you own one? I guess that it was more common in vintage pieces than nowadays.
2. Do you think that's a good idea to use wool as a lining? I saw some minor projects, like youtuber's Iron Snail's mammoth coat, or Carl Murawski's co-op with Heat Straps, using wool as a lining in their coats.

I am eager to hear your opinions!

1. Leather/canvas/denim jackets, yes. Overcoats, no.

2. Your tailor can advise better, but I think lining a bespoke coat with wool is a bad idea. A rich viscose is going to contribute to the drape of the garment, minimize friction, etc. Having a worsted lining won't do any of that. I don't think it was a feature of vintage pieces either because my great-grandfathers' bespoke coats were all viscose/silk lined.

Wool linings in a leather jacket or something are a different matter. A very different craft and garment.

I very much doubt YouTube "rugged" influencers, with no offense intended to them, know much about how tailored garments are supposed to wear even though I'm sure their workwear wardrobes cost more than most Row houses.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,723
wool half lining in wool coats will work just fine, sleeve still best with slippery fabric for overcoats.
IMG_8185.jpeg
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,736
Location
Iowa
I itch with "rough" wool linings. So I have been ok with Aero's and the lightweight tartan lining, however anything heavier that that and I itch too much to enjoy it.

I have an un-lined heavy wool Filson button up coat, wool that's similar to the jacket just above this post. I have to wear a heavy under-shirt or sweatshirt made of cotton or poly to even wear that Filson.

So I would encourage the OP to consider the wool they want to use for a lining carefully prior to commiting to it.
 

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