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Willoughby Hats...of Paris?

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Since i have a pause in my model "job" I can dedicate myself to others situations ;)
Well, I add my contribution to the thread dedicated to Willoughby
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Open crown
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With a shape
Certainly this brand was a merchant who bought what he needed on the market, season after season, and branded it with his name.
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I think that, despite the English or Anglo-Saxon name, the property was in partnership with the French.
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In this case it is a disguised Habig, made in Austria as shown by the label written in French.
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The hat is of soft felt and with all the tricks to be able to use it in the summer.
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The dimensions are those of a hat produced in the sixties, but Steve will say much more and better than me.
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The dimensions are those of a crown 14 centimeters high and the brim of five. The hat weighs very little and seems to have been little used or even a stock fund. There are very slight traces of moth here and there, otherwise the bow still has the seam to keep it in perfect order
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and the inside is perfect
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Some interesting construction details of the Habig Ventilo alias Willoughby.
There is a description of the ventilation system inside the hat
2eqdwgk.jpg

and you can see how the channels were made to let the air pass. Outside on the sweatband
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Inside in the hat
2z68gg6.jpg
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Some interesting construction details of the Habig Ventilo alias Willoughby.
There is a description of the ventilation system inside the hat
2eqdwgk.jpg

and you can see how the channels were made to let the air pass. Outside on the sweatband
ff0o74.jpg

Inside in the hat
2z68gg6.jpg
Very interesting hat Daniele. That unusual venting system on the sweat is of note. Looks like it would work!
 

drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Well the roll of the dice was rewarded in this instance.
This is one of the three finest fur felts I own. Unbelievably thin yet dense, floppy but will hold a crease, 2 3/4" brim and a generous 6"+ open crown. French 7 3/8, so a roomy 60. I have found out very little of the company, Willoughby, below is a mention in a 1909 AMERICAN HATTER.

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At the brims edge it comes in at about (?) 1/8" - 3/16" thick.
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That was a very good description of a Willoughby felt
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Been looking for one of these for some time but the French sellers seem to think these are their equivalent of the Whippet:) Quite the coincidence as well; I managed to find not just this one, but a second one in the same week.
Willoughby Real Nutria homburg. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Came in a box dated 1937, which seems about right to me. The box mentions Ragon (Rat Gondin -nutria) but also mentions Madelios, which is another retailer with hats under their own brand. The box came wrapped in packing tape:eek:
Fantastic hand to the felt and shapes without any steam. Sold to me as black, but I'm very glad it's in fact a mid to dark grey. No label inside the hat. Some light mothing on the front, but more noticeable in the pics than in real life.

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Willoughby Prince IV G satin finish. Size 57 with the overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. This one doesn't have "fabrique a Londres" on the liner, like the previous one has and it does have a label that says "made in France". This one does seem set in its ways and doesn't like to be creased. Very soft longhair felt and the hand is outstanding. Unreeded construction. Likely intended to be shaped brim up, but it does work as a regular fedora as well.
Probably older that it looks. Interesint is that I did find a very similar hat that was named "Prince III". Also found a WIlloughby hat made by Robert Heath, so it's highly likely that Willoughby sourced their hats from various manufacturers.

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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Been looking for one of these for some time but the French sellers seem to think these are their equivalent of the Whippet:) Quite the coincidence as well; I managed to find not just this one, but a second one in the same week.
Willoughby Real Nutria homburg. Size 57 with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Came in a box dated 1937, which seems about right to me. The box mentions Ragon (Rat Gondin -nutria) but also mentions Madelios, which is another retailer with hats under their own brand. The box came wrapped in packing tape:eek:
Fantastic hand to the felt and shapes without any steam. Sold to me as black, but I'm very glad it's in fact a mid to dark grey. No label inside the hat. Some light mothing on the front, but more noticeable in the pics than in real life.

willoughby_1-jpg.299169
willoughby_2-jpg.299170
willoughby_3-jpg.299171
willoughby_4-jpg.299172
willoughby_5-jpg.299173
willoughby_6-jpg.299174
willoughby_7-jpg.299175
willoughby_8-jpg.299176
willoughby_9-jpg.299177
willoughby-box-label-jpg.299178
I haven't been let down by a Willoughby felt
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
This hat was listed as a "Willoughby haters t54". I'm not a Willoughby hater; au contraire, and from sellers' pics the 7 1/8 size tag could be seen. I'll have that, thank you.
So, Willoughby homburg in a size 58 (fits more like a 57 though) in a rich brown colour called Pacha. Brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Stitches still in the ribbon. It had a cellophane covering of the liner originally (a sliver of which can be seen on the liner pic). I'm going with later forties to mid-fifties for this one. Not a lightweight homburg though: weighs 155 grams. Felt and finishing are fantastic.

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
This one just came on. Willoughby homburg in black. Size 56 with the modest brim at 5cm and the crown at 11,5cm at the center dent. It doesn't say anything other than fur felt, but I suspect this not a rabbit fur. I'm thinking nutria, because of the way the felt feels and shapes. It has a fantastic hand to it. The finishing is top notch on this one and I really like the classy looking liner. It has the Willoughby label inside of it, so no obvious source. Weighs 140 grams, so not a lightweight.
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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
This one just came on. Willoughby homburg in black. Size 56 with the modest brim at 5cm and the crown at 11,5cm at the center dent. It doesn't say anything other than fur felt, but I suspect this not a rabbit fur. I'm thinking nutria, because of the way the felt feels and shapes. It has a fantastic hand to it. The finishing is top notch on this one and I really like the classy looking liner. It has the Willoughby label inside of it, so no obvious source. Weighs 140 grams, so not a lightweight.
View attachment 342430 View attachment 342431 View attachment 342432 View attachment 342433 View attachment 342434 View attachment 342435 View attachment 342436 View attachment 342437 View attachment 342438 View attachment 342439
I love them, Stefan! Too bad they're small for me. I would be begging to buy one if they weren't
 
Messages
11,718
5DF93A91-BAC1-43CE-9618-63101C3DCE78.jpeg

Willoughby Hatter Paris - Consul I
Black Medium Hair - Satin Finish
5 1/2 open crown - Just under 5 as shaped
1 1/4 mid ribbon
1 7/8 brim with rolled overwelt

Came across this Willoughby Consul I and quickly threw in an offer that was accepted by the seller. My first experience with Willoughby… but I had heard great things. This one a dark black velour like medium hair felt which is very soft to the touch and extremely malleable. The black is deep.. but there does seem to be a tiny bit of lighter fibers heathered in here and there. The finish is referred to on the liner as Satin Finish. As soft as it is though it seems to hold shape very well. With its short brim it does seem to prefer this the up brim shape.. but certainly works either way. The size is indicated at 7 1/8 on the manufacturing sticker.. but also has a hand written 7. I’d say it fits closer to 7. The sweat is stitched directly to the felt and has a oil skin liner behind it. Haven’t really any idea on age as there is my first Willoughby hat. Been wearing it the last couple days and enjoying the feel of it.

This one looks to be the little brother of Stefan’s Prince IV G above

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
View attachment 408056
Willoughby Hatter Paris - Consul I
Black Medium Hair - Satin Finish
5 1/2 open crown - Just under 5 as shaped
1 1/4 mid ribbon
1 7/8 brim with rolled overwelt

Came across this Willoughby Consul I and quickly threw in an offer that was accepted by the seller. My first experience with Willoughby… but I had heard great things. This one a dark black velour like medium hair felt which is very soft to the touch and extremely malleable. The black is deep.. but there does seem to be a tiny bit of lighter fibers heathered in here and there. The finish is referred to on the liner as Satin Finish. As soft as it is though it seems to hold shape very well. With its short brim it does seem to prefer this the up brim shape.. but certainly works either way. The size is indicated at 7 1/8 on the manufacturing sticker.. but also has a hand written 7. I’d say it fits closer to 7. The sweat is stitched directly to the felt and has a oil skin liner behind it. Haven’t really any idea on age as there is my first Willoughby hat. Been wearing it the last couple days and enjoying the feel of it.

This one looks to be the little brother of Stefan’s Prince IV G above

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It's a winner, Joe!
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Northern California
An Etsy find. I bought it on a lark, no questions about size or condition, which is unusual for me. After seeing Joe's score, however, I had Willoughby on the mind and this one was cheap so I just hit the buy button. Glad I did! It is not only a fantastic quality hat Ut it is also unusual in that the sweatband is cloth, and stitched to the liner. I think it was meant to be packed in a suitcase.

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The brim is just shy of 2",the crown just under 6. It weighs 108g. Fits my 58cm head just right! :) The felt is dense, soft, dry creases easily, and you can dent it by blowing on it.
It has a late 20's to early 30's vibe to me, but as always, any opinions as to age are welcome!
 

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