Why is there a yoke and seam on inside sleeve at biceps on some jackets

[Vespizzare]

I'm building something (at Johnson Leather), ergo two new threads. Anyway, some jackets have a yoke on the front or back and some have a level or diagonal seam on the inside of the upper sleeve? Is any purpose served other than design and saving leather?

 

[sshack]

Got a pic in regards to your question? I think it would help us follow...

 

[Panacheman]

If your talking about what I think your talking about. That patch could be an underarm gusset. I had them put on my Wested raiders to improve over the head arm mobility. Also after checking I have them on several of my vintage jackets.

 

[Tomasso]

Yes, underarm gusssets increase mobility without the added bulk of fabric.

 

[Vespizzare]

I feel like an idiot (are you still allowed to say that?). I used to know how to post pix here using photobucket and my old posts were full of pix. I even posted a tutorial on how. But then photobucket changed and I couldn't figure the new way. BTW I'm a total technophobe. But I figured out if I posted a link people can see what I mean. So on the LW Rigger you see two pieces making the inner sleeve where an A2 has just one. BTW I think yoke is self explanatory, but the rigger has one in back. Here goes:

http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Rigger_Horsehide_Leather_Jacket.htm

 

[simonc]

he's talking about the small square piece in the back of the tricep of the sleeve

 

[sshack]

Ahh, now I get you. This is purely conjecture, but I would imagine that this "extra" piece allows a repair to be made in a part of the arm sleeve that gets the most wear. Rather than replace a whole sleeve, you can just replace this little piece?

I doubt it's to save money... or if it is, it's really silly. Cutting a longer (one piece) sleeve pattern can't use up that much more leather.

 

[Foster]

Perhaps as a hide saving measure. There are more possibilities to cut small pieces from leather, than large ones. You want the large pieces to be what is typically seen when worn, such as the sleeve on the sides and the back or front of the jacket. More possibilities to get more garments out of the same hide if you piece some of the lesser seen panels of the garment. This is just my guessed opinion, probably not worth the two cents that are often claimed.

 

[Capesofwrath]

I've sometimes wondered why the sleeves are constructed like that. I only ever remember seeing it on older US leather utility jackets and their modern copies.

Plus the other jackets from the same makers.

 

[Fanch]

Andrew might be able to give us the answer if he happens to see this thread.

 

[IXL]

I feel like an idiot (are you still allowed to say that?)....

Well of course. I say you're an idiot all the time....

 

[Vespizzare]

Well of course. I say you're an idiot all the time....

I'll get you (from song of the same name albeit a different meaning).