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Who's Homburgs are good?

Not-Bogart13

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2,501
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NE Pennsylvania
Don't even know if I spelled "homburg" right, but anyway... I was suit shopping this weekend and bumped into a very dusty, dented, cheap wool black homburg. I threw it on for kicks and I liked how it looked on me. If it hadn't been damaged, I'd have bought it. So, my question is, who makes a decent homburg that isn't overly expensive (aside from the e-bay route)?
 

Not-Bogart13

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2,501
Location
NE Pennsylvania
I know I'm going to be burned at the stake for this...

... but how is the wool Dobbs Homburg? I mean, I understand wool isn't great, but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to wear it often. I'm still debating.

In the meantime, thanks for the info so far. I will consider the Dobbs a strong possibility.
 

Mycroft

One Too Many
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1,993
Location
Florida, U.S.A. for now
photobyalan said:
I'll say one other thing on the subject of Homburgs: I have worn both of mine in the past week and received more hat compliments in those two days than I have in the past month when wearing fedoras. Fascinating.

People misunderstand Fedoras.
 

Not-Bogart13

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2,501
Location
NE Pennsylvania
Yes, they do, Mycroft

I got a great compliment on my Campdraft the other day (my first time in the grocery store with it). But mostly people around here look at fedoras and think you want to be an action hero! If I get a homburg, It'll probably be the only one in town. Everybody here wears baseball caps or cowboy hats.
 

Mycroft

One Too Many
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1,993
Location
Florida, U.S.A. for now
Not-Bogart13 said:
I got a great compliment on my Campdraft the other day (my first time in the grocery store with it). But mostly people around here look at fedoras and think you want to be an action hero! If I get a homburg, It'll probably be the only one in town. Everybody here wears baseball caps or cowboy hats.

I found in many fashion books they say wear a homberg, but they don't fit me well and/or make me look stern and stiff (no offence to anyone else, its just me). Thats all.
 


Generally, homburgs are seen as the staid, correct, but somewhat bland big brother of the fedora. After all, you can't personalize them much: how much shaping can you do to a homburg without taking away its "homburg-ness"? How much choice do you have in the way it sits on your head?

Don't get me wrong -- I think homburgs are great. Nonetheless, they're not much more adaptable than, say, a bowler hat.

I'll say one thing about them: vintage ones of very high quality are cheap and plentiful on eBay.

 

Mycroft

One Too Many
Messages
1,993
Location
Florida, U.S.A. for now
Veronica Parra said:


Generally, homburgs are seen as the staid, correct, but somewhat bland big brother of the fedora. After all, you can't personalize them much: how much shaping can you do to a homburg without taking away its "homburg-ness"? How much choice do you have in the way it sits on your head?

Don't get me wrong -- I think homburgs are great. Nonetheless, they're not much more adaptable than, say, a bowler hat.


I read they are the only acceptable hat in todays fashion, mainstream, I mean.
 

Vladimir Berkov

One Too Many
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1,291
Location
Austin, TX
The homburg is one of my favorite types of hat, perhaps my favorite overall. You can change the way it sits on your head. I like wearing mine at a slightly jaunty angle. I like how wearing it in that manner contrasts with the formality of the hat. True, homburgs can't really personalized but there is enough possible variation to find one which suits you, and you can always have a custom homburg made (what I hope to do next.)

I was not aware that it was seen as acceptable in mainstream fashion today, which really is a bit strange.
 

Mycroft

One Too Many
Messages
1,993
Location
Florida, U.S.A. for now
Vladimir Berkov said:
The homburg is one of my favorite types of hat, perhaps my favorite overall. You can change the way it sits on your head. I like wearing mine at a slightly jaunty angle. I like how wearing it in that manner contrasts with the formality of the hat. True, homburgs can't really personalized but there is enough possible variation to find one which suits you, and you can always have a custom homburg made (what I hope to do next.)

I was not aware that it was seen as acceptable in mainstream fashion today, which really is a bit strange.

I guess it is as manstreamed as hats can get these days.
 

Not-Bogart13

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Location
NE Pennsylvania
I think the "mainstream fashion" idea is coming from the sudden surge of rappers, DJ's, and the like wearing them. It was really strange when I started seeing pictures in magazines of music groups geared toward youth in homburgs and pinstripe suits! I'm also seeing fedoras worn with the brim up all around on tv a bit, which might be getting mislabeled as homburgs. They have center dents and gentle pinches, with brim widths similar to a homburg, but no curl.
 
Vladimir Berkov said:
You can change the way [a homburg] sits on your head. I like wearing mine at a slightly jaunty angle.

I saw what you mean when I looked at this photo:

Brown20Johnny20Mack_01.jpg
 

Nathan Flowers

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
3,661
It's debatable.

Graham's at Optimo in Chicago really look old school. He sells tons of them to the black guys up there, and they usually know what to look for in a good homburg.

He also made some of John Lee Hooker's homburgs.
 

Harry Lime

Suspended
Messages
167
Location
Tri-coastal
Optimo, hands down.

I've seen many old school Homburgs. Graham's are spot on, with the advantage that they fit because they're custom made. I have a midnight blue Homburg and a black semi-homburg, both Optimos (homburg shape, regular fedora binding rather than the wide Homburg binding). They're the best. I'll order a dark grey next year.

Homburgs are often called "The Godfather" hat - did you know that the first time you see Michael Corleone wearing a homburg he's wearing it backwards?

Interesting not note on the Homburg - although generally thought of as formal, they can be dressed down and look great. Some times they almost look western.

Harry Lime
 

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