Who Wore Formalwear in the Golden Era, and When?

[Dick Ireland]

I've recently discovered the whole issue of formalwear, and even found websites dedicated to it. Metropd has some nice photos of himself wearing a morning suit in the "What are You Wearing?" thread.

It gave rise to a few questions in my mind:

1) During the Golden Era, was it only appropriate dress for the upperclass?

2) For what occasions was it appropriate? I think it wasn't businesswear, right? And it wasn't sportswear. Was it just for going out in the big city, or going to shows and events?

3) Do any of those rules/customs still apply today?

Thanks!

 

[Tomasso]

You may wish to peruse the Formal Wear Primer.

 

[Dick Ireland]

You may wish to peruse the Formal Wear Primer.

Thank you, Lyles. It is a better explanation of formalwear than I have found elsewhere. Unfortunately, it didn't adress any of my questions. I'm more interested in the wider context.

 

[skyvue]

Well, there are varying degrees of formalwear. But one sees in many movies of the era that people of a certain status or class dressed for dinner on a nightly basis, changing from a business suit to black tie (I think that's the right term; I'm not an expert by any means). And this was for dinner at home, too, not just an evening out.

I once saw a movie comedy (I wish I could remember which one) in which a rich roue was sneaking out of a lady's apartment in the morning, and it was clearly meant to be utterly shameful that he would be seen by those he passed in his evening wear. Today, people might wonder why someone in a tux was so dressed up, but it would not, in the eyes of most, be viewed as at all scandalous.

That was one of those old movie scenes that I realized would fly right over the heads of many modern viewers.

 

[Cobden]

I'll endeavour to answer your questions in order, but bear in mind this is from the British perspective - which varies somewhat from the American and continental European views.

1) During the Golden Era, was it only appropriate dress for the upperclass?

I'm going to use my own personal definitions of the British class systems, but generally speaking the Upper Classes (Aristocrats, and others who general do not earn an income through work, but rather through rents off their vast estates and perhaps property and other investments. Also includes sons/daughters of such people, who may themselves actually hold a job. Went to the most prestigious public schools - e.g. Eton or Rugby, then onto Oxford or Cambridge. Have lots of servants) would have full range of formal (White tie/morning coat), semi formal (black tie/black lounge), informal (business suits) and casual wear (tweed and flannels, etc). Upper middle classes (Attended prestigious public schools and Oxbridge, but have to work for a living. Diplomats, officers in fashionable British regiments, something in the city, members of parliament etc. Have some servants) would also likely have a full range. Middle middle classes (minor public school education, perhaps university but not essential, in the junior rungs in the civil service in an unfashionable ministry such as Transport, or in an unfashionable army regiment or corps, or working in at a company in a junior managerial role. Owns a house, and has perhaps a cook-general) would have semi formal wear and informal clothing. Working classes would be unlikely to own anything formal, though there are exceptions - musicians for example.

2) For what occasions was it appropriate? I think it wasn't businesswear, right? And it wasn't sportswear. Was it just for going out in the big city, or going to shows and events?

White tie and tales was for formal dinners and dances where there were ladies present, though the semi formal dinner jacket began to take over in this role. White tie was gradually relegated to only the most formal events. Morning coats were worn at weddings, at Ascot, funerals, christenings, and formal garden parties and similar formal daytime events. Semi formal day wear (black lounge/stroller/streseman) was worn largely as business wear in stuffier organisations, such as by merchant bankers, stock brokers, civil servants, politicians, bank managers, mayors, etc.

3) Do any of those rules/customs still apply today?

Pretty much the same as they were then. The black lounge is all but dead, occasionally worn at weddings as a more informal alternative to the morning coat but more formal than a suit in the US, but in the UK it's only seen on Freemason's. White tie is now pretty much the preserve of state banquets and balls at the older Oxford and Cambridge colleges. The morning coat has seen a healthy resurgence as wedding wear in recent years.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

The Depression and subsequently WWII played large roles in WHO wore formalwear WHEN and how frequently. With diminished incomes and dry goods rationing, it would seem like maintaining, cleaning, fixing and replacing formalwear would be low on the list of priorities of the average man. Unfortunately, out of habit, etc. a lot of people probably didn't go BACK to formalwear once things evened out a bit after the war. Not that this was the question, per se, but I think it's something to consider when we think about decline and fall of style/habits/etiquette.

 

[Dick Ireland]

Cobden, thanks for such a detailed answer. I think I have a much better picture it all now. It also solidifies my inclination never to dabble in formalwear unless I suddenly become a millionaire.

Also, thanks for that interesting point, Hap. I tend to think of the "Golden Era" as ending in 1945, if not 1941 (for us Americans).

 

[ottawa_adam]

This web site is one of the definitive authorities regarding formalwear: http://www.blacktieguide.com/

Black Tie Guide has plenty of information regarding the history of formalwear.

I hope this helps.

 

[Stanley Doble]

Robert Benchley made an interesting comment in a review of a Gilbert and Sullivan operetta in the mid 30s regarding Gilbert and Sullivan audiences. Everyone was dressed in evening clothes. They might not be the latest thing in evening clothes but you got the impression they would be wearing them even if the weren't going out.

 

[Hap Hapablap]

Speaking of Benchley, he like most men, got no joy out of dressing formally (as attested to in at least one of his wonderful short pieces). I think we have an erroneous perception of why men did what they did, and to what end. I don't think the average man has ever really WANTED to wear a 2.5" tall, stiff collar in 80º weather, long into the night. They simply did it because they felt morally and culturally obligated — a sentiment that most people today wouldn't understand. As someone who wears wonderfully uncomfortable period formalwear, I get a certain masochistic joy out of it, but blame no one for having an aversion toward it.