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Who Makes a Nice Pea Coat?

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,527
Location
South of Nashville
Lexy, that is the only way to go. I have seen them all, including the Schotts and the current issue Sterlingwears as well as their civilian models. Not to take anything away from those manufacturers, but if one were to get an issue coat from 1979, or before, that is the best material, cut and fit available in today's market.

I think it was 1980 (I need to go back and look at my Peacoat sticky!) when the material and color in the issue peacoats changed. Compared to the vintage peacoats, I'm just not as impressed with the coats issued in the last 30 years. Yes, it can be difficult finding the correct year to get the vintage coat, but the sticky thread at the top of this section--Outerwear--is a vintage peacoat primer. It gives details to find any year from WWII up until the present. And I will be glad to answer any questions one may have after reading the thread.

The WWII coats are getting to be extremely hard to find in good condition, but the fabric is the same up until 1980, when it was changed. So I wouldn't be too concerned with getting a WWII model. Any questions, let me know.
 

mattfink

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Detroit
I bought a WWII original Navy Peacoat in great condition last year for under $100. There are a ton on eBay right now.
 

R.A. Stewart

Familiar Face
Messages
74
Location
Chicago, Illinois
Great thread--thanks to all for the useful information, especially your linked article, Peacoat (gotta call that an article rather than a plain ol' post). I had a peacoat in the early 70s, undoubtedly not authentic, but I've always had it in the back of my mind to get another. Warm, comfortable, and practical, and it's one of those styles that seems to look good even on ugly old codgers like me. :D Something to keep in mind for later on, after the holidays and the post-holiday travel.

By the way, did the original-issue coats ever have an inside pocket? That is the one feature I would have liked to add to mine.

~Rich
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,527
Location
South of Nashville
RA Stewart: Yes, there is an inside breast pocket on the right side, and a smaller "ticket" pocket on the left, a little lower on the inside of the jacket.

BTW, OneEye Man decided to get a vintage coat, and was able to find one in what appears to be excellent condition for a reasonable price.
 

OneEyeMan

Practically Family
Messages
550
Location
United States
Oh yes I did.
And to think I was going to buy a modern version.
I'm so glad that Peacoat talked me out of it.
Just got it today and frankly, I'm blown away by the quality.
I paid $50 for it and it's awesome.
Fit is perfect.
Lining is perfect.
There's quite a few moth nibbles around the shoulders and back, but none go all the way through the wool.
They're not visible unless you look at them under a strong light, and don't bother me at all.
BTW, the sleeves have the double row of stitching above the wrist opening.
So, according to Peacoat's sticky post, that puts it at 1966 or earlier.
I've definitely found my new winter coat.
Endless thanks to you Peacoat.
Lenny
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,527
Location
South of Nashville
Glad it worked out for you. Looks like I was right about the tag being a 1966 model. With the double stitching it can't be any later than that. It is a little different from the other 1966 tags I have seen, but close enough so that that's what I pegged it as. Congratulations. Stay warm.
 

bwc1976

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
San Diego, CA
Wash In Lux said:
If you're near any navy towns, they're plentiful in the thrift stores. San Diego's a big navy town, they're everywhere. There was 3 or 4 at the AmVets I was at a couple days ago. If you want a new, navy issue, I can get you one. PM me.

For some reason it won't let me send a PM, maybe because I'm still kind of new here... But I saw your post and I'm in the San Diego area (East County) and would love to hear any more helpful hints you might have. I think the closest Amvets to me is in El Cajon, are you familiar with that one, or any other similar stores in El Cajon or Casa de Oro?
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,527
Location
South of Nashville
You can't send a PM until you have a certain number of posts. There is probably a good reason for that rule, but I can't seem to figure it out right now.

Ebay is a good source of these coats, if you know what you are looking for. If you read my sticky at the top of the Outerwear section, you will have a head start. Or, the link below is a good source for issue peacoats. The guy there who dates the coats has read my article, so he is pretty accurate on the dates. Just remember that 1979 and before should get a coat with the "Kersey" wool, and 1980 and after will get the modern "Melton" wool.

http://www.vintagetrends.com/milita...tage&CA=Men&SC=Jackets/Coats&ST=Navy+Pea+Coat

Questions? Just ask.
 

bwc1976

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
San Diego, CA
Peacoat said:
You can't send a PM until you have a certain number of posts. There is probably a good reason for that rule, but I can't seem to figure it out right now.

Ebay is a good source of these coats, if you know what you are looking for. If you read my sticky at the top of the Outerwear section, you will have a head start. Or, the link below is a good source for issue peacoats. The guy there who dates the coats has read my article, so he is pretty accurate on the dates. Just remember that 1979 and before should get a coat with the "Kersey" wool, and 1980 and after will get the modern "Melton" wool.

http://www.vintagetrends.com/milita...tage&CA=Men&SC=Jackets/Coats&ST=Navy+Pea+Coat

Questions? Just ask.

Thank you, I remember reading the sticky and the original thread before, and I've known for a while now that I want a pre-1980 issue coat (otherwise Sterlingwear and Schott both sound good), but the tricky part is figuring out the right size for me. I don't want to buy one online and then have to worry about sending it back if it doesn't fit. So I was excited to hear there were a lot of them in thrift stores near where I live. :-]

Also, I'm curious, are the heaviest pea coats supposed to be heavier than leather? Or just thicker? Because the department-store knockoff A-2 I currently have weighs noticeably more than the department-store knockoff pea coat I currently have, even though the wool looks and feels thicker and has always done a perfect job of keeping both wind and rain out. My main complaint with what I have now is it seems to ride up too much when I raise my arms, so I don't feel like wearing it while I'm driving.
 

msm007

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Up North
boushi_mania said:
More specifically, Sterlingwear of Boston is the official supplier of peacoats to the U.S. Navy. They're not the same exact fabric as vintage, but they're reasonably priced and more authentic (in terms of purpose, at least) than the various fashion brands' versions. It's the same exact model as the government uses now, except that it's marketed to civilians.

Of course, mine is 60 years old, and I found it at a secondhand shop in Japan....

I was able to order a deck coat directly from the company, and get a free set of peacoat buttons instead of the metal ones. My tailor was so impressed with the quality that he wanted to purchase one
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,527
Location
South of Nashville
bwc1976: My size 42 peacoats weigh about 5 to 6 pounds. They are all pre 1980, but the post 1980 coats weigh about the same because of the added insulated liner.

As to fit: Over the past several weeks I have had quite a few questions by PM and email about the fit of peacoats. Probably time to add a section on the sticky about fit. But until then, here are my thoughts:

Military peacoats, as most military uniforms, are closely fitted. This doesn't mean so tightly fitted that they are difficult to move in, but fitted enough to give a very trim appearance. If one is overweight, especially in the mid section, a military peacoat is not for him. I wear a size 42 jacket, and a size 42 peacoat fits me perfectly. It leaves enough room underneath for a heavy wool shirt and a sweater for those really cold winter days and nights. I have found that the earlier peacoats, such as the WWII and early post war versions, are a little more tightly fitted than the ones from about the late 50s to current issue. The civilian market coats are much looser in fit and more "boxy" in appearance.

My experience has been that the tag size on the peacoat is a true indicator of actual size. To determine what size you will need, first, wearing a Tshirt, take a measurement of the chest at the widest part. That will be the size of peacoat that is needed. For example my chest measures 42". I wear a size 42 peacoat. It is a good fit with just a shirt underneath, but it has enough room for a heavy shirt and a sweater.

If I want a trimmer fit without room to layer, I wear a size 40 peacoat. As a size 40 is fitted closer to my body, it is a bit warmer than a size 42 worn without layering.

If there is no tag, then a measurement will need to be taken of the coat. If buying from EBay, ask the seller to lay the coat chest up on a flat surface. Smooth it as straight as possible, pulling it from the sides to ensure the wrinkles are out of the material. Then relax the fabric and measure across the chest of the garment from just under one armpit to just under the other armpit. Take this measurement and double it. Then subtract 2" from that number.

As an example, my peacoats measure just a little over 22". Doubled that gives 44" and minus 2" gives the coat size of 42. We subtract the 2" to get the inside measurement, or the size of the coat. Works every time.

Hope this clears up questions about fit and measurements.
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
Peacoat

Many thanks for posting this. This information will prove invaluable to all those looking to acquire a vintage peacoat but who, like me, are confused by the sizing issues. Great stuff!

Cheers
 

Musher

One of the Regulars
Messages
233
Location
Middleburgh. New York
There is obviously only one way to go on this question.
Peacoat - thank you for posting all the information about Peacoats. I was issued a 42R when I joined the Reserves in 84. Outgrew it long ago and after reading your post on Peacoats picked up a 1998 48r on ebay that I like vèry much. (Its hard to find the Kersey wool in 48r.)
 

Bushwalker

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Far East Asia
Peacoat - thank you for posting all the information about Peacoats. I was issued a 42R when I joined the Reserves in 84. Outgrew it long ago and after reading your post on Peacoats picked up a 1998 48r on ebay that I like vèry much. (Its hard to find the Kersey wool in 48r.)

Mr. Peacoat and gents- My first post here. Thank you for sharing of your knowledge in USN peacoat. I enjoy reading your posts.

And FYI, irish50don is selling a USN Kersey wool peacoat in size 48 on eBay. If anyone needs a Kersey wool in size 48, it's the time.
 

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