Who could make such a jacket?

[Marc mndt]

A few weeks ago I spotted this vintage horsehide cossack jacket on ebay. I immediate fell in love.

I't looks a lot like an A1 jacket but the classic A1 features a knit collar. This jacket features a leather collar which looks a bit like a shawl collar, but it's not. I also like the leather buttons and of course the beautiful patina.

Unfortunately, most of these true vintage jackets from the 30s which pop up on eBay are very small in size and this one was no exception. The chances of finding a vintage jacket like this in my size (43 chest) which is also in wearable condition are very slim. Therefore I've started my search for a brand-new jacket in exactly this style, made in modern day sizes.

I found one at Whitefeather mfg:
http://whitefeathermfg.com/produkt/product-1/

The collar looks very similar. Most obvious differences are of course the hem and the cuffs (no knits). Maby Whitefeather could make a custom version of this jacket including knits. However, I'm not really into the button hole finish, they are all leather :

I read somewhere that button holes are made using a Reece button hole machine which is pretty expensive. I don't know how expensive but I guess its a substantial investment, too big of an investment for small-scale jacket makers.

I haven't found any other maker who does jackets in this style. Lvc has their Menlo jacket but those have handwarmer pockets and no knits. Also, imo the lvc jackets made today are overpriced.

The most obvious way to go is Thedi leathers. I know they do jackets in this style and I'm almost certain they could perfectly match the patina of the original jacket. I haven't seen thedi do a collar style like this (is there a name for this collar style?) but maby he would be willing to do a custom design for me.

Now my question: are there any makers who sell a jacket similar to the one I found on eBay, ready to wear / stock? If not, are there any other makers I could consider beside Thedi who could do a custom jacket?

(Definitely not saying there's anything wrong with Thedi. I own one thedi jacket and I absolutely love it. I'm just wondering whether there are any other options)

Link to the eBay listing : https://m.ebay.nl/itm/STUNNING-Vtg-...e18-4c17-99f3-31239d05b979#vi__app-cvip-panel

 

[Kuro]

Without going into too much detail...

LVC made Einstein's Cossack, in brown and black. First that comes to my mind.

I feel like Thedi makes something like this too.

Himel has a Cossack pattern I believe.

 

[Marc mndt]

Without going into too much detail...

LVC made Einstein's Cossack, in brown and black. First that comes to my mind.

I had one of those but the quality was a bit disappointing, considering the prices they go for.

 

[marker2037]

I think a Bill Kelso Waldo Pepper is exactly what you're looking for.

https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/product/waldo-pepper-roughwear-clothing-co/

 

[steve u]

(Maverickson)...Dave sheeley could.

 

[Marc mndt]

I think a Bill Kelso Waldo Pepper is exactly what you're looking for.

https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/product/waldo-pepper-roughwear-clothing-co/

It does look very similar. But the collar on the vintage jacket looks a bit more like a 'cut away' collar than the one on the bk. Or is the picture misleading because the collar is popped up?

 

[Marc mndt]

(Maverickson)...Dave sheeley could.

I just found the remake he did in the vintage Californian. Very impressivel!
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/dave-sheeley-30s-monarch-aviator.100602/

 

[AeroFan_07]

That Whitefeather looks pretty amazing. I know some folks like the knit cuffs, I actually prefer the WF design with standard sleeve cuffs and leather waistband, less "bomber." But yes that original looks incredible! The patina in that leather is astounding.

 

[Marc mndt]

Me and my girlfriend are planning to visit Vienna later this year. I will certainty pay a visit to the Whitefeather store to check out their cossack.

 

[marker2037]

It does look very similar. But the collar on the vintage jacket looks a bit more like a 'cut away' collar than the one on the bk. Or is the picture misleading because the collar is popped up?

The vintage one likely has a more spread, cutaway collar, but that should be something that's easily modified from the BK design. I would be surprised if they can't make that adjustment for you.

 

[Will Zach]

Very nice find, this Whitefeather...

 

[Rabbit]

Bill Kelso's vintage repro section/ vintage archive ready for repro might be something to start with. I haven't bought from him (yet), so can't comment really. But it looks like it might be an option if you're willing to pay for it.
https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/vintage-leather-jacket-archives/

There are a few jackets in there with similar features. The knit waist shouldn't be the most difficult modification, again if you're willing to pay for it and, presumably, if you can convince the maker that you know what you're asking for.

And I think you could still call this a shawl collar. They come in all widths and lengths.

 

[Marc mndt]

Bill Kelso's vintage repro section/ vintage archive ready for repro might be something to start with. I haven't bought from him (yet), so can't comment really. But it looks like it might be an option if you're willing to pay for it.
https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/vintage-leather-jacket-archives/

There are a few jackets in there with similar features. The knit waist shouldn't be the most difficult modification, again if you're willing to pay for it and, presumably, if you can convince the maker that you know what you're asking

That's so cool!

So many beautiful vintage designs. I wonder whether somebody from the lounge has had them reproduction one of these.

 

[Rabbit]

And BK offers an actual capeskin on some models. Might be something to ask for nicely when you look into those vintage archive jackets. I have no info if the capeskin is currently in stock, though.

 

[JMax]

That's so cool!

So many beautiful vintage designs. I wonder whether somebody from the lounge has had them reproduction one of these.

I believe @regius ordered a jacket from their archives. He may have insight as to the process, etc.

 

[Thuggee]

For what it’s worth Simmons Bilts will create a pattern if you send them the actual jacket, not sure if any other makers will do this, obviously it adds $ to the end cost of the jacket as creating the pattern would be time consuming - I have just been through the same process with a old Swedish goat skin jacket I found on eBay which I sent to SB to create a pattern/then make me a jacket – I do know a maker if your on a budget that will do it from photos, SB will also do the same thing from photos possibly (you would have to ask the question) but it wouldn’t be the same/as accurate as having the actual jacket in hand to create a pattern.

 

[Benny Holiday]

Johnson Leather?

 

[Marc mndt]

Interesting. Do you have photos of the original and the SB remake you could share? @Thuggee
My intention was indeed to buy the jacket but unfortunately I didn't win the bid so I only have the photos from eBay. Im not looking for 100% accuracy in terms of the pattern. Most important to me are the look/patina of the leather, the shape of the collar and the pockets and the button style.

 

[MrProper]

When it comes to having a jacket copied from just a photo, I want to float the idea to think about fivestarleather. Shawn may not make a 100% copy, but one that comes close to that.
You have to cut back on leather, because the strength of them is clearly Goatskin. There is little experience with horse leather, I only know buffalo and cow from the photo. It's best to sew buttons yourself or replace them. But for 250 EUR you can get a good jacket according to your own ideas and dimensions in record time.
So if you are not a perfectionist or just want to try something for little money, I can encourage you. All my Fivestar jackets were made from a photo and my information.

And yes, it’s clearly no Aero, Thedi, Fieldleathers, ...

 

[Marc mndt]

View attachment 241271

You've posted this one in the 'what are you wearing today' section the other day. Looks like a great fit. How does their ordering process work? I've just checked their website. Headquarters in Pakistan?