Which dress shape?

[kerry]

I going to buy a pattern to make up a couple of dresses for myself. However, I dont really know which shape to go for to flatter my rather ample figure, Im 38,32,41. Any opinions would be really appreciated. Also should I make the size 20 pattern up a size or do they tend to run true?
Sorry for all the questions on this forum, I do hope that I can return the help one day.
Thanks
Kerry

 

[Paisley]

There are several beauty books out there that show different kinds of figures and recommend styles for each one. Your library may have some of these books.

I've seen women with larger figures look good in empire waists.

I, however, am 5'-4", have a rather lean, athletic shape, but a short neck. So I wear clothes with a defined waist, scoop or v-necks, an underwire bra, and knee-length skirts. I can also wear cap sleeves.

Good luck to you--I'm sure you'll get many good recommendations here!

 

[LizzieMaine]

As far as sizing goes, most vintage patterns I've used have run true to the measurments given -- but you have a good bit of leeway in the seam allowances for making adjustments to suit your particular measurements. When in doubt, it's a good idea to make a preliminary "muslin" version of the dress before going to work on the actual fabric you plan to use. You can use the muslin to fiddle around with the measurements and get everything just right -- and then use that as a guide to assembling the final dress.

A big part of sew-your-own-repro is trial and error -- so feel free to experiment!

 

[kerry]

I think the problem is that Ive become overwhelmed with the amount of patterns there are and cant make a decision. Too much choice is not always a good thing .

 

[Adelaidey]

Hey kerry, I know almost exactly what you're going through... my measurements are very similar to yours
(40-31-41), and I've found that dresses with a somewhat fitted waist and swing skirt give a more hourglass shape to the look of the dress that suits me well. A wiggle style also works well in most cases, but I'm pretty careful about which wiggle dresses I wear, as some work better with my waistline than others.

And if you really want to embrace your curves, just choose a style that emphasizes "the girls" and everything else will fall into place!

Best of Luck!

 

[Sunny]

Check out this article on body shapes. It's the most detailed and clearest (and fun to read) that I've ever read. Best of all, it's directly correlated to specific decades for those who wear vintage styles. :eusa_clap

 

[hotrod_elf]

I have those same measurments. The Vintage Vogue ones the measurments are perfect size. I use the size 16 for when I know I will wear foundation garments, and size 18 when I'm not. Usually the dresses that have a fitted bodice and flowing skirt work well for me.. My hips are the same size as you, but my thighs are not so perfect so pencil skirts/fitted skirts do not look good on me. A-line skirts are the best. If you have any question just ask.

 

[kerry]

Thanks everyone. Yet another question. If I buy a pattern with a 40, 34 . 43 measurement will it be ok just to knock a inch or two of when cutting or will it totally alter the whole shape?

 

[BegintheBeguine]

Try to get a multi-size patron and follow the lines accordingly. Does that make sense? Obviously it will be a modern patron as in Vogue Vintage.

 

[kerry]

Try to get a multi-size patron and follow the lines accordingly. Does that make sense? Obviously it will be a modern patron as in Vogue Vintage.

Unfortunately the vogue patterns seem rather limited, I can only find about 10 in the vintage range, and I dont really like any of them. Nevermind, Ill work it out

 

[BegintheBeguine]

Do you own any multi-sized patrons? If so, look at the areas that have the different cutting lines for the diffenet sizes and which areas have just the one cutting line. This is a quick and dirty way to judge which areas, if any, are uniform when sizing down. Hope this helps.
Ashley

 

[kerry]

Do you own any multi-sized patrons? If so, look at the areas that have the different cutting lines for the diffenet sizes and which areas have just the one cutting line. This is a quick and dirty way to judge which areas, if any, are uniform when sizing down. Hope this helps.
Ashley

Thats a really good idea, thanks. I go to a dressmaking class one evening a week, so Im sure ill get plenty of help. Just got to decide between two patterns now. Both have fitted waists, one has inverted box pleats in the skirt but a nicer top. The other has a nicer skirt......[MG]

 

[GoldLeaf]

I know that Lady Day posted a picture once of the lines in pattern where you can cut to make it smaller or larger. I think it was in the sewing FAQ thread. Maybe she will be kind and find it for us, I don't even know what terms to type in for a search.

You don't want to cut in the wrong area, it will make a mess. One of the best ways is to buy cheep muslin and make a mock up first. Just pin it together and modify as needed, then you know how to adjust the real thing.

Of course, I am a new sewer, and what I am saying is what I had my mom do when she fit me for garments as a child, and is what I have read these ladies say. I am sure that Lady Day or Lauren can correct me if I am incorrect

 

[Lady Day]

Howdy there Kerry,

For me, sizing up from vintage patterns is all I do. Ive taken things with a 26 inch waist (which I have NEVER been lol ) and scaled it up to my size. As a matter of fact, I have not come a cross a pattern I liked that was vintage and in my size

But I dont let that stop me.

As for sizing, Lauren (former Bartendress-extrordinare') posted a real great vintage size refrence that is in a sticky at the top of this forum.

But Lizziemaine nailed it down with the mock up/trial and error business. Tis the only way to go. Also vintage patterns are allotted for a 5/8" seam allowance and as she said thats a lot of wiggle room when modern fabrics and patterns get by with only 1/2".

As for the types of clothes you want to create, well thats personal preference. And yes, you are oh so right, there are a lot of patterns out there, and A LOT of them would look awful on me.

Im a big gal and like all the other ladies here, beyond super cute, so I have to frame myself to show that. What era are you going for? I find late 40s and mostly all of the 50s give way to that great thing called the belt, so if the dress is abit too big, belt it girl! No one will know.

As for types of dresses I go for, A line works great, oooh and there is nothing like a circle skirt to make you feeeellll like a big old girl I like tops to be cut tight on the torso. I dart heavily (and most of the time when the pattern does not call for it) cause, well, my boobs are out there and I dont want sagging around the girls. I also tend to go for clothes cut with a yoke, give a bit of flavor to the same old thing.

See, now look at me, I ve rambled. Sorry. Hope some of that info was useful.

Later,

LD

 

[kerry]

Thankyou so much ladies, you have all been wonderful. Im just going to order a couple of patterns and get sewing.
Many thanks again
Kerry