Which custom hatter?

[Mulceber]

A post by Fedora on Club Obi Wan December 2nd, 2008 3:34 PM

Lively discussion. Let me add a few things. First, Optimo does not make a handmade hat. Optimo is a small hat factory, with the same equipment one saw in the mass producers, like Stetson. So, while it is a custom hat, it falls within the range of a custom Stetson prior to 1970. The custom Stetson's of that era, were factory hats, but were pulled aside and finished up by hand in the front shop. So,an Optimo hat is a factory made custom hat. Plus, Graham does nothing but the basic hatmaking, the trim is left to his girls.

With that said, Optimo makes a fine looking hat!! And offers ANY KIND of hat, welts, bound brims, etc. But one has to wonder IF Graham has ever handsewn in a sweat, or made a bow. Probably NOT!!! I know he has the 36 finger blocking machine, that he uses to block the hats. Like the factories have. And I know he has a girl who does the trim work. The hatters here who handmake our hats, do ALL of the work. I think we might just be a bit better, as an all around hatter. Take his equipment away, and he might not be able to produce a hat. lol The key word is "might not". I don't know him well enough to know his capabilities, if left with just hand tools for hatting. Perhaps he could, I just dunno.

I'd trust what Steve has to say on hat-making long before I'd trust the Chicago Sun-Times. -M

 

[billyspew]

OK, I guess it's we're into the semantics of what is exactly hand-made and hand-finished!

I'll get me coat.

 

[Tomasso]

I'd trust what Steve has to say on hat-making long before I'd trust the Chicago Sun-Times.

Actually, the S-T article was accurate in '99 and the Delk description is fairly accurate (less the snide remarks, which don't speak well of him) in '08. Graham apprenticed under the former owner/hatter of Optimo, learning how to make a hat in the same manner as Art and Delk. In subsequent years he has acquired specialized equipment and hired/trained a small staff in order to boost production and turn around time, though I would stop short of calling the operation a factory; more like an atelier.

 

[Mulceber]

In subsequent years he has acquired specialized equipment and hired/trained a small staff in order to boost production and turn around time, though I would stop short of calling the operation a factory; more like an atelier.

Fair enough, I think that's a pretty good description of it. Just so you know, I'm not trying to impugn Optimo - I've heard nothing but good reviews of their hats and I'm sure Graham is a wonderful business man. I'm just saying that I think, based one what I've heard both from Steve and from you, Art puts more personal craftsmanship into his work. Both are great hatters, both have products that are well worth the cost. But for my money, I'd prefer a work of Art. -M

 

[billyspew]

But for my money, I'd prefer a work of Art. -M

That I would totally agree with. Just need to make my mind up on the Jazzman or the Route 66!

 

[Mulceber]

Personally, I like the Jazzman better - a little more old-school to my eyes. -M

 

[portolan]

Is it possible for anyone anymore to make a hat - non-

coonskin, from scratch? Perhaps dumb question, but is there anyone who takes raw beaver or rabbit, processes the fur and fashions hats? I think I read somewhere that Stetson was a trapper. Did he do this? I believe there is only one firm left in the entire U.S. who makes watch movements and then builds watches from them. But even they outsource the core movement parts, hands, dials and cases. Several companies buy movements, refine and then install them. But only one near Lancaster builds the movements. That may be a bad comparison, but is there anyone who makes hats from critter to crown?

 

[tonyb]

Good question, portolan. Just what do we mean by "made from scratch"?

I recall my dear old mother baking pies "from scratch," but I never once knew her to mill flour, let alone grow wheat.

Hatco has its own hat-body plant, in Longview (I think it is) Texas. And I've seen video showing Akubra's body-felting processes. But do either of them raise (or trap) the critters who provide the fur from which the felt is made? Doubtful, that.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Portolan, the simple answer is, Stetson, Bollman, & Dorfman ( or does DP own Bollman now?), to my knowledge, make them from fur to finish. Very few

 

[jamespowers]

Portolan, the simple answer is, Stetson, Bollman, & Dorfman ( or does DP own Bollman now?), to my knowledge, make them from fur to finish. Very few

They grow beavers and sheep?

 

[Mulceber]

Not so much beavers for Dorfman; mainly just sheep and a couple scrawny rabbits for them. -M

 

[jamespowers]

Not so much beavers for Dorfman; mainly just sheep and a couple scrawny rabbits for them. -M

lol lol lol lol

 

[Tomasso]

is there anyone who makes hats from critter to crown?

No, but there are a few who make from beaver to brim.






j/k

 

[jamespowers]

No, but there are a few who make from beaver to brim.






j/k

I know a few who use tail and all---or so it seems.

 

[feltfan]

Optimo uses 1OO% beaver;NO BUNNY.

Hm, doesn't say that on the site.

I do know that they have, at least in the past,
produced hats made from nutria blends, so 100%
beaver is simply not true. Would not
be surprised to hear some of the felts they've used
have contained some "bunny".

But let me also point out that "bunny" is not the end
of the world. Lots of terrific vintage hats are made from
part or all "bunny". My guess is that modern Akubras,
made from rabbit, compare favorably to some modern
beaver Stetsons.

For the record, I have purchased vintage hats since
purchasing a hat from Art Fawcett. Apples and oranges.
Happy with both. Hope to buy more of both.

 

[Tomasso]

Hm, doesn't say that on the site.

I do know that they have, at least in the past,
produced hats made from nutria blends, so 100%
beaver is simply not true.

I only know what they've told me, in person, at the shop. Let's just brand Optimo a fraud and a liar, and call it a day.

 

[feltfan]

I only know what they've told me, in person, at the shop. Let's just brand Optimo a fraud and a liar, and call it a day.

Andykev has the hat:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=643

No need to be silly.

 

[Tomasso]

Andykev has the hat:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=643

No need to be silly.

Sorry, silly me, I thought that we were talking about Today, not Five Years Ago. :eusa_doh:

 

[zetwal]

I notice that many mention the wonderful signature blocking of Art and Optimo, and others. Can I assume that by this we mean that these hats are made with stiffening agents and that the crown shape is set by the maker in question?

Doesn't anyone out there buy open crown custom made hats without stiffeners and just bash 'em to taste at home?

Or am I missing or miss understanding something? E

 

[feltfan]

I notice that many mention the wonderful signature blocking of Art and Optimo, and others. Can I assume that by this we mean that these hats are made with stiffening agents and that the crown shape is set by the maker in question?

Doesn't anyone out there buy open crown custom made hats without stiffeners and just bash 'em to taste at home?

Or am I missing or miss understanding something? E

People absolutely buy open crown hats and bash them to taste.
I believe all felt has at least a bit of stiffening agent in it.
That's what makes it keep its shape when steamed or bashed.

But yeah, the crown is shaped using carved wood blocks.
Not everyone has every possible block. These guys horde
vintage hat blocks and use them when making hats.

I did have a vintage Borsalino cleaned and blocked at Optimo once.
Graham was unable to control himself and put a center dent in
the crown by hand. He just couldn't stand the thought that I
might put it in off-center. But other than that, it came open crown...