When did the 'short back and sides, wet head' hair style first come into popularity?

[FedoraFan112390]

Arguably the definitive look of the Golden Era in terms of men's hairstyles is the 'short back and sides' haircut, wherein the hair in the front was left long and either slicked back or sideways; it was usually held down with some form of grease or another. By the middle 1950s and definitely by the early 1960s, men's hair had become shorter and shorter and the dry look was in, so we have an idea of about when it ended. But when did it begin?

 

[Stanley Doble]

I would have to say in the military in WW1. The older generation of the late 19th century generally wore their hair longer, and were more likely to sport beards, side whiskers or handlebar mustaches. Mustaches were the privilege of the soldier but from the twenties on, the big handlebar mustache was seen as old fashioned, or as something seen on immigrants from the less sophisticated parts of Europe, and in general as comical.

Soldiers were obliged to wear their hair short as a matter of good hygiene especially in vermin infested front line and trench conditions.

 

[The Good]

From looking through paintings and photographs throughout the 19th century, men tended to wear their hair a little (or quite a lot) longer than what we may identify as one of the typical early 20th through mid-20th century short back and sides haircuts. Between 1800 (really, since around the 1790s) to some point in the 1830s or '40s, typical haircuts for men were what would be referred to as Caesar haircuts of varying lengths, with an often wavy or curly fringe down the forehead. Not many portraits seem to indicate side-parted hair yet until the 1830s, by which the trend for hair was longer on the sides than before, the typical mid-19th century hairstyles with long sides that may cover the ears, but not extremely long in the back. I think by the late 19th century, say from 1880s onward, haircuts are identifiably closer to what was normal during the 1920s, '30s, and '40s, but in many cases still with beards, mustaches, and sideburns or mutton chops.

This link could help you see what some of the fashions were of the 19th century for hair:

http://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/index.php

1850s: Men's hair during the 1850s was generally parted, slicked back, and combed up into a high wave at the center of the forehead. After the mid-50s, the height of the wave decreased, and eventually the hair was merely parted and gently waved back from the face. The back of the hair was usually collar length and the side hair covered the ears by 1857.

The image on the left displays the very high wave of the early 1850s. The image on the right demonstrates the softer wave of the later 50s. The hair falling over the ears of the man on the right was very fashionable for this time.



1850s Men's Hair: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995

During the early 1850s, most men were clean shaven. By the mid-50s, fringe appeared around the cheeks and jaw. Many beards were seen by the end of the decade. Notice the soft facial hair around the cheeks and chin in the image on the left, and the full beard in the image on the right.

1860s: Men's hair in the 1860s was cut to ear level in the back, parted on the side, and combed back into smooth style. Chin whiskers were popular, and sideburns were cut short. Mustaches were not en vogue during the 1860s.

The man on the right displays the neat sideburns and chin whiskers. Fuller chin whiskers are displayed on the man on the right, as well as the side-parted, combed-back hairstyle.

1870s: Men's hairstyles appear to have changed little from the 1860s. The hair is short and combed back from a simple side part. Chin whiskers and mustaches appear to have been worn.



1870s Men's Hairstyles: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995

1880s: Men's hairstyles in the 1880s did not change much from the previous decade. Hair appears to be rather short and frequently parted on the side, though not slicked back as much as in earlier years.



1880s Men's Hairstyles: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995

1890s: Men's hair became quite short during the 1890s.

Hair was shaved almost up the sides, clipped on the neck, oiled, and parted in the center.



1890s Short Hair: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995

The walrus mustache is a significant defining feature of the 1890s.



1890s Walrus Mustache: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa

1900s: Men's fashions did not change dramatically during the first years of the 20th century.

Knee-length overcoats, especially for driving, were popular during the ealry 1900s. Long neckties began to be worn with suits. The trousers were still straight, uncreased and uncuffed, as seen below. Also note the hat and walking stick.



1900s Overcoat: Image courtesy of Jenna Weissman Joselit, A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character, and the Promise of America, 2001

Men's hair was short and typically slicked back. A center part was still common.



1900s Men's Hairstyles: Image courtesy of Jenna Weissman Joselit

1910s: American styles of the 1910s became more casual, much more so than British men's wear of the era.

The crisp shirts, high collars, and bold stripes seen below were typical of the clean-cut but casual American style. Also note the short, well-groomed hair.



1910s American Style: Image courtesy of Valerie Mendes and Amy de la Haye, 20th Century Fashion, 1999

The lounge suit was also a popular American style of the 1910s. Jackets were long and double-breasted, and pants were turned up at the cuffs. Also note the hat styles and the walking sticks.



1910s Lounge Suits: Image courtesy of Valerie Mendes and Amy de la Haye

Here are some mostly mid-19th century examples of what may be short in the back, but with somewhat longer sides, and slicked down or back.

Nikola Tesla in 1878:

Franz Joseph I of Austria in 1853:

Antonio Lopez de Santa Ana in 1853:

Here is a website that has numerous photographs of mens' portraits:

http://thevintagethimble.tumblr.com/post/49577290972/victorian-mens-hairstyles-facial-hair-a

 

[FedoraFan112390]

Long hair, shaved sides and back - Golden Era hair trend?

This picture of my grandfather was taken in May 1934. He was 14 then. The second was taken in 1967 - it seems to be a style he often went back to in his life.

I'm just curious - was this look, longish hair on top and almost shaved sides and back a big trend in the Golden Era - 30s especially?

 

[tropicalbob]

I would have to say in the military in WW1. The older generation of the late 19th century generally wore their hair longer, and were more likely to sport beards, side whiskers or handlebar mustaches. Mustaches were the privilege of the soldier but from the twenties on, the big handlebar mustache was seen as old fashioned, or as something seen on immigrants from the less sophisticated parts of Europe, and in general as comical.

Soldiers were obliged to wear their hair short as a matter of good hygiene especially in vermin infested front line and trench conditions.

This is exactly right.

 

[Stanley Doble]

The "white sidewalls" look also came from the military. It was particularly popular in England. It was popular in WW2 along with the even more extreme "brush cut". The brush cut had a vogue in the fifties among boys and young men, especially athletes.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Sticking oils and creams in hair was still pretty common until the 1970's. These things gradually phased out as the young took pop music celebrities as their hair inspiration.