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Whats your Favorite brim finish

John J

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Upstate NY
Good morning again, I hope all is well

thanks for the help with the black cherry color from the different custom makers.

Ive pretty much figured out what to Do for my first custom when Bob gets back from his trip, Ill be lucky if I get it by Dec im sure.

BOBS KEYNOTE in Black cherry with wind trolly and a medium size gray ribbon of some sort (vintage if he has any), , this model comes standard as a tear drop but I'm going to see if Bob can add a little Height perhaps another 1/4" and have him steam in his new double diamond just for something way different. (tired of dents in short crowns that hit my head)

I now have to decide what to do with the brim. I don't want super dress up looking and thus do not want a ribbon bound edge.

So
1) Stitched edge whip (if he can do it)

2) double or triple stitched?

3) Under or over welt?

the few hats I own (straw and felt) all have under welted brims except a Biltmore Rosellini I just ordered for early fall (teardrop , birch color), it has a whip stitched edge.

as always many thanks.

"John"
 
Messages
17,517
Location
Maryland
I like all kinds of edge treatments but I am only focused on vintage. Here is an edge treatment you will not see being done today.

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Last edited:

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,142
Location
Somewhere in Time
For me, the best brim edge is the Cavanagh edge and its imitators. Obviously not really possible to get in a new hat (although I believe there might be some hatters with some old Cav edge bodies still around) so a welted edge is the next best.

The closest I've seen to a real Cav edge is Art Fawcett's underwelt. He can make these with no visible stitching and it looks really good.

You could also try Optimo (or any other custom hatters), and see if they can come close to making one.
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
A wind trolley is a very practical invention, when you live in a flat, gusty area. I do, and my trolleys have saved me from looking stupid many a time. If on the other hand it's just added for garnish purposes and never to be used, I guess I find a brim binding less 'dressed up' :)

For me the brim treatment is dependent on the hat's other details and on the way you intend to wear it. Is it a flat or near-flat brim? Is it a snap brim? If so, how deep do you plan it to be - and is to be worn snapped down or up? How will the profile look when creased? I wouldn't be able to make such the treatment choice separated from a lot of other details. They all come together and form the resulting expression. I don't have a favorite - it depends on the rest of the hat, it's use and styling.

Do I like garlic in my food? Sure - but not in my apple pie ;)
 

job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
Raw edge for me also. Art can do a overwelt where the stitching is almost invisible.
 
Last edited:

bowlerman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,294
Location
South Dakota
Admittedly I enjoy a felted edge, but Mike Moore's custom edge, a very narrow pencil roll sorta, is my favorite. However, for that keynote, I'll agree with Jared that a bound edge would look nice if you must deter from raw.
On another note, wow, I want that Blackthorne...

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2
 

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