What's the story on grainy leather?

[Vespizzare]

I hope I'm not being a pest. I'm in the final stages of commissioning something at JL that, if all else fails, I can at least say reflects my preferences. I guess I'm a person who puts more emphasis on the design of a jacket and less on the hide. I didn't even know what "grainy leather" referred to until I looked it up online. The pictures I saw showed the grain, so I know what they're talking about, but I'd like to know the advantages and disadvantages. I already know that it's not sanded as much. so it may be thicker or stronger. And on the internet, it was noted that grainy breathed better, whatever that means. I think I like smoother leather better; but if I'm missing something beyond personal preference, I'd sure like to know. Or, to put it another way, I wouldn't want a hide that draws attention to itself and detracts from the overall effect.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Not much difference except for appearance. So go with the smooth hide if that's what you prefer.
HD

 

[Jeff M]

None.
Whichever you prefer.

 

[ManofKent]

It's pretty much just aesthetics.

 

[sshack]

Where (or what) is JL? Thanks!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I would bet that JL means Johnson Leather located in SF (San Francisco).
HD

 

[Vespizzare]

Where (or what) is JL? Thanks!

When you're a hardened veteran of this particular interest on Fedora Lounge (FL to some), you'll probably know that means Johnson Leather in San Francisco. Don't go by their website. Allan, the owner, can make about any style you want (but not in every leather). He likes the website as is and so do I. When I talked to him today, he said (and I could tell) that he was "swamped." So he's an artisan, not a factory, and you can email and call on the phone and talk to him. BTW fit is never a problem, he'll send a "test jacket" (or in my case two) until everything is copasetic. Or if you're in SanFran, just go in and he'll fit you like it was a suit of clothes.

 

[Vespizzare]

I would bet that JL means Johnson Leather located in SF (San Francisco).
HD

I wouldn't book that bet HD.

 

[Seb Lucas]

When you're a hardened veteran of this particular interest on Fedora Lounge (FL to some), you'll probably know that means Johnson Leather in San Francisco. Don't go by their website. Allan, the owner, can make about any style you want (but not in every leather). He likes the website as is and so do I. When I talked to him today, he said (and I could tell) that he was "swamped." So he's an artisan, not a factory, and you can email and call on the phone and talk to him. BTW fit is never a problem, he'll send a "test jacket" (or in my case two) until everything is copasetic. Or if you're in SanFran, just go in and he'll fit you like it was a suit of clothes.

In recent times a few happy customers have posted about JL. I was an early fan (I have 3 of their jackets now), but I wouldn't assume that they are really well known around here.

In answer to your grainy question. Many folks prefer real character (grain) and, with age, patina on leather to a smooth (shall we say "bland") finish. Given leather is a natural material and that good garments are hand made, a grainy look kind of fits in to the whole aesthetic. But it makes no practical difference. Mind you, why not just buy a dreadful Gortex windbreaker (in red).

 

[FredS]

I think you mean full grain or naked leather (not sanded at all and top layer intact) Here are a few good articles explaining the difference between Full grain and Top grain leather, the qualities of each and the processes that they go through.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather
http://www.bikeweekleathers.com/TOP-10-Leather-Care-Tips-sp4.html
http://www.all-about-leather.co.uk/what-is-leather/leather-types.htm
http://www.choiceleather.com/xe/?document_srl=1716
http://www.danetti.com/blog/2008/07/types-of-leather/
http://www.mckinleyleatherfurniture.com/faqs.php
http://www.waskerd.com/leather.html
http://horween.com/101/by-request-whats-the-difference/
http://www.leatherusa.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=3289
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aniline_leather

Hope you have a better idea now

 

[Vespizzare]

I think you mean full grain or naked leather (not sanded at all and top layer intact) Here are a few good articles explaining the difference between Full grain and Top grain leather, the qualities of each and the processes that they go through.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather
http://www.bikeweekleathers.com/TOP-10-Leather-Care-Tips-sp4.html
http://www.all-about-leather.co.uk/what-is-leather/leather-types.htm
http://www.choiceleather.com/xe/?document_srl=1716
http://www.danetti.com/blog/2008/07/types-of-leather/
http://www.mckinleyleatherfurniture.com/faqs.php
http://www.waskerd.com/leather.html
http://horween.com/101/by-request-whats-the-difference/
http://www.leatherusa.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=3289
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aniline_leather

Hope you have a better idea now

Thank you. Very informative. I really went to school on you regarding chromexel. I loove the way that, even thought it's black, it has a kind of luminescence.

 

[Vespizzare]

I thought the grainier parts were the sides and lower bits that came about from stretching?
The top being smooth(er) as it's the top and doesn't stretch out?


School is in session.

This article, from among the others by Fred on this string, puts the kibosh on that, I think.

http://www.bikeweekleathers.com/TOP-10-Leather-Care-Tips-sp4.html

 

[Jeff M]

Vespizzare, are you questioning if there are differences between leather with a grainy, textured appearance vs a smooth surface...or are there differences between top grain leather and full grain leather?
These are different questions.

Depending on how a leather is processed, you can have a smooth surface on a full grain leather, and a textured surface on a top grain leather.

Last I heard, Aero uses full grain HH on their jackets.
They offer "Tumbled" and "Jerky" versions of their FQHH...which have a grainy, textured character....in addition to their "standard" smooth grained FQHH.
Same hides. Different finishing.
Same "quality".

Pick a maker first. Then worry about the leather.
A great jacket maker knows what they are doing, will make you a great jacket and can recommend hides/answer your questions.
A not so great maker...no matter the "quality" of their leather, is still not a great jacket maker.

 

[Vespizzare]

Vespizzare, are you questioning if there are differences between leather with a grainy, textured appearance vs a smooth surface...or are there differences between top grain leather and full grain leather?
These are different questions.

Depending on how a leather is processed, you can have a smooth surface on a full grain leather, and a textured surface on a top grain leather.

Last I heard, Aero uses full grain HH on their jackets.
They offer "Tumbled" and "Jerky" versions of their FQHH...which have a grainy, textured character....in addition to their "standard" smooth grained FQHH.
Same hides. Different finishing.
Same "quality".

Pick a maker first. Then worry about the leather.
A great jacket maker knows what they are doing, will make you a great jacket and can recommend hides/answer your questions.
A not so great maker...no matter the "quality" of their leather, is still not a great jacket maker.

I'm just reporting that Allen at JL said he was sending me a sample of naked leather that had more grain than usual. I'm currently thinking I might go black chromexel anyway. How much less warm than naked leather can it be? I learned here on FL that they can make the leather thinner. So if I do go Chromexel, I'm going from 4.5 oz to 3.5. because I also learned here that someone who had a 4.5 jacket wanted to sell it bad because it was too heavy and hard to wear.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm just reporting that Allen at JL said he was sending me a sample of naked leather that had more grain than usual. I'm currently thinking I might go black chromexel anyway. How much less warm than naked leather can it be? I learned here on FL that they can make the leather thinner. So if I do go Chromexel, I'm going from 4.5 oz to 3.5. because I also learned here that someone who had a 4.5 jacket wanted to sell it bad because it was too heavy and hard to wear.

Ves, stop focusing on the warmth of the leather as a criteria. That really shouldn't be a consideration. I have probably 10 leather jackets in different types of hides. The only one I maybe notice as being colder than the others is the goat--maybe.

I think the JL in a 3.5 oz.cow, with the Thinsulate type lining is the ticket for you. It will give some protection in the event of an involuntary dismount, and will be plenty warm for your weather there in Santa Monica. I have that jacket and am very happy with it. The 4.5 oz. leather from Johnson is a beast to break in; for your purposes you are right to avoid it. For my purposes, I love it.