What to look for in a tailor?

[volatile]

So, I'm looking for a tailor. There doesn't seem to be any in my town (Reading, UK), so I might need to travel.

Thing is, I have no idea how to tell a good tailor from a bad one other than giving them a suit and risking them mucking it up royally. Do they have portfolios, or anything like that? How can a tell a good tailor from a bad one, and a great one from a good one?

 

[cowboy76]

I'm not sure what you are faced with there across the pond, but here, at least in my area, I'm faced with an abundance of broken-English speaking Asians that insist their way is the best way to tailor something.

For instance, I had to explain four times how I wanted my 1940s trousers hemmed, (my wife's sewing machine was out of commission at the time!! ) and the woman doing the tailoring STILL insisted that the front should break more and the back be lower, of course if I allowed her to do this, I would have looked like a 10 year old kid wearing his father's pants, 10 sizes to big! Even after all this, she still messed them up, though she fixed them that night, she then tried to make me pay to fix HER screw up!

When I lived in a small suburb of Philly, I had a guy in Flourertown, PA, outside of Philadelphia mess up every pair of trousers he ever took in for me, he had to do everyone of them twice, and a few three times. He'd pull them in at the waist, I'd agree they felt great right there, he'd pin them, mark them, mark the hem lines, I'd agree that's where they needed to be. I'd come back and they'd be really tight, and too long!

FINALLY!!!,....(Lord I love Italians!!),....I went a few towns over from where I was in Philly, found a GREAT old place that did EXCELLANT tailoring!!!! NEVER ONCE HAD ANY ISSUES!!!! All Italian, and had the business in family for generations! They were proud of their work and it showed,....not one where I live now is proud of their work, its just a way to make some cash,..you can see it in their attitudes, they work and the way they treat you and their jobs!!

That's the sort of thing you need to find over where you're at my friend,....someone with experience and attention to detail!

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you are serious about clothes and know what you are talking about, then it really comes down to running into a guy that knows what you are talking about without being overzealous or shady. I have had too many experiences with tailors that want to be in the know when it comes to their craft yet really just know how to sew.

Just ask a lot of historical questions you'd expect him not to be able to answer and if he does then he might be your man. It's the tailors that admire the clothing and suits in the old movies that really seam to know their trade.

 

[cowboy76]

Yes, Matt's suggestion is a sound one. That was also one thing I did that I did not mention, I would give examples of the old 1940s movies, movie stars, etc. The clothing of the period. Thought he one guy in Flourtown said he knew what I was talking about, he hand't a clue!

 

[Fletch]

...not one where I live now is proud of their work, its just a way to make some cash,..you can see it in their attitudes, they work and the way they treat you and their jobs!!

Many Asian immigrants in the more complicated trades, like tailoring, were educated professionals in their own countries (lawyers, accountants, etc.), at an age where learning an entirely new language is slow and frustrating, and manual work is a loss in status for them. I can understand if they're a bit ashamed, but it's too bad they have to control the trade.

 

[volatile]

So it's essentially trial and error? I'm not well-versed in the lingo to feel confident that I'd catch someone out with a pointed question...

I guess recommendations are the way to go, then - can anyone recommend a reasonably-priced tailor in London, England?

 

[cowboy76]

Many Asian immigrants in the more complicated trades, like tailoring, were educated professionals in their own countries (lawyers, accountants, etc.), at an age where learning an entirely new language is slow and frustrating, and manual work is a loss in status for them. I can understand if they're a bit ashamed, but it's too bad they have to control the trade.

Sorry I feel no sympathy nor compassion for those that I have had experience with here in my area.
When you give someone a chance and they screw you, what's left? Learning a new language is hard, yes, but my great grandparents did it, and they were proud to,...now its become more of a bother to new immigrants, then that of a right of passage like it had been for years before. Back then (1900s -1960s) people came MAINLY because they wanted a better life and to BECOME Americans, to assimilate into a new and wonderful culture....not just come and take advantage of another country's generosity. Show me an average white guy that can get the money he needs to start a busniess as easy as a new immigrant can, and I'll get right on opeing up my own business!

If the people I had dealt with were true craftsman in their native country then I would still be patronizing them. there are countless things you can do to overcome the language barrier,....like have someone there who CAN speak English and be able to translate for you. This helps them learn, and the customer get what he or she needs. Instead, lets just hire all of our relatives who can't speak a lick of English either, then to add ijury to insult, lets charge you twice for their mistake!!??

I work with a local Phillipino man, age 49, who speaks broken English. There's a BIG differnece,..He takes PRIDE in his work, who he is, and the fact that he IS AN AMERICAN CITIZEN! He WONT take a handout to starthis own business just because he is a relatively new immigrant like others. He has self-respect, and one HELL of a work ethic. He also feels strongly that America should be giving to her own people FIRST that have been here, and have been born here, before she gives to new immigrants. Something I was amazed to hear from him,...very uplifting! He's open to any suggestions in learning, and bettering his speaking skills, I in return since he has shown me such a true American spirit and respect for the country I was born in, I've become interested in learning a bit of his language to make it easier for the both of us. God forbid others work together in the tailoring industry!

 

[Lord Jagged]

Good tailors?

I think good tailors are hard to find. They seem to be a dieing breed, with Hong Kong "tailors" selling second rate suits and premium prices (whatever their adverts say).

The best tailor I've found is Vincents at Marlborough - not "that" far from Reading and really worth trying if you're looking for a Bespoke suit.

 

[volatile]

I think good tailors are hard to find. They seem to be a dieing breed, with Hong Kong "tailors" selling second rate suits and premium prices (whatever their adverts say).

The best tailor I've found is Vincents at Marlborough - not "that" far from Reading and really worth trying if you're looking for a Bespoke suit.

Well, a bespoke suit is more-than-a-little out of my league at the moment, and I'd just be looking for someone to do some good-quality alterations. Marlborough is certainly near enough, but are they happy to do alterations?

 

[luvthatlulu]

I would have to say it really is trial-and-error. But there are a few ways to improve the odds in your favor on the first attempt:

1. Unless you've already had a good experience, stay away from people who do tailoring as a sideline (i.e.- the local drycleaners). If you had a good experience--well, you probably got lucky.

2. Find one of the better men's clothing stores in your area and pointedly ask to see some of their finished work. They want to sell you something so they should be happy to comply. I'm obsessive about my tailoring so I look for "footprints" where the tailor has been--clipped stitches that were not carefully removed, clipped holes in linings, over-stitching, puckering, mis-matched thread, buttons poorly secured, etc. When the tailoring is done it should look like it it did from the manufacturer except fit better. If you like what you see, ask if they are willing to take in outside work. If not, ask for a referral. Start this same process over again there, too.

3. Start slow and bring them up to speed. Let them re-hem a pant or something. I have found it helps to write out a description of exactly what you want done with diagrams and pictures, if needed. Fine tune the effort if it isn't to your satisfaction. If you get resistance, start the search process again. Gradually build up to more complicated tasks.

In time, you'll find someone you can trust to just pin and mark and get it right the first time! Finally, tip well and never ever ask for a rush job--that's poor planning on your part!

 

[Son_of_Atropos]

A few resources on the subject:
http://artofmanliness.com/2009/10/01/alteration_guide/
http://www.atailoredsuit.com/how-to-choose-tailor(a).html


Although this thread is very old, it is relevant to anyone looking for a good tailor. Any other advice on what to look for in a good tailor, loungers?

 

[Tiller]

I wonder if the lack of good tailors, is just another reason for the decline in popularity of the suit. Us in the vintage crowd are unique since for most people the suit is a symbol of business, and "special occasion" not everyday wear.

 

[Fletch]

Very true. And it doesn't have to fit that well if it's just a costume.

It's a chicken-or-egg question, really, which started going downhill first. I would guess good tailoring, tho, if I had to. I've been having problems with tailors long before people started talking about the slow death of the suit.

I agree that written descriptions and diagrams are a good idea, but they're obviously not foolproof - or "expertproof." Once the tailor gets to his bench, it's all up to him.

The tradition of collaborating with the customer in the tailoring trade is much exaggerated. It's found mostly at the high end, and even there, it is severely restrained by custom and fashion.

 

[Guttersnipe]

I always ask around and see who other vintage enthusiasts (vintage stores/dealers, acquaintances, etc.) recommend. I've had really good luck finding reliable places to do alterations that way.