What should I look for when buying an Overcoat?

[RLM]

The thread concerning the Road to Perdition overcoat got me wondering what to look for when searching for a vintage overcoat. I've been thinking of getting an overcoat on and off for years and going vintage should net me a better quality coat at a hopefully cheaper price than a new one. When searching e-bay or the thrift stores what brands should I look for, I know nothing about fabric/wool quality, so I assume sticking with some of the better brands would net me better quality material. Are there any signs to look for that would indicate better quality material or workmanship? The last winter coat I bought was a modern (at the time) JC Penney $40 parka about 17 years ago and it still looks new, so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a coat I will only wear a few months out of the year. The posts of the e-bay sales with prices in the $50 range have peaked my interest, but I'm not so cheap as to limit my budget quite that much.

 

[MK]

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Over coats are classy and functional. Think about what looks good on you...rather than what looks good on others. Your build and other factors should dictate your choice. If you are looking for an old school style....look at photos of an actor who has your basic look. That is a good place to start. Chances are, he has had several experts help him find what looks good on him. Most of us don't have that luxury. Of course some are just gifted in style and others are gifted with incredible looks that everything looks good on them.....

......then there are the rest of us schmucks.

 

[RLM]

......then there are the rest of us schmucks.

Thanks for the advice MK. I definitely fall into the "schmuck" category. At least that's what my wife keeps telling me! If you remember the line from "The Color Purple", I believe Danny Glover delivered it - "You're ugly, you're shaped funny and you're nappy headed too", well that kind of describes me.:eusa_doh:

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Are there any signs to look for that would indicate better quality material or workmanship?

Sure. If it's a thick wool but still soft and drapey, that's a good sign of quality. Look at the label, too: if the wool is cashmere or a cashmere blend, you're in luck. Check the stitching: there shouldn't be too few stitches per inch. Is the (probably rayon or nylon) lining thick or thin? If it's very thin, that's not good.


As for style, that's a subjective call. Here are some nice examples IMO:


http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2101909504/nm0001195

 

[Edward]

Don't rule out military overcoats. From what I have seen over the years, it's not hard to find a more recent example of a military dress overcoat (more recent usually means less collectable, therefore less expensive) which is still made to a pattern that's sixty years old, or more. One of my favourite overcoats, alongside some genuine vintage pieces I have, is actually a reproduction Wehrmacht great coat. It's rare indeed that anyone actually recognises what it is, and it has that beautiful, quite fitted upper body and flared skirt cut that was around in civilian coats back in the thirties and is so hard to find (at least affordably) nowadays. I fell in with mine for about GBP20.00 on eBay; new they're only around GBP80.00. One of the cheapest routes to a genuine vintage style and cut, IMO. It'd probably look even more like a regular civilian coat if you changed the buttons, and opted for the model with the same-colour collar (Mine has the darker collar facing).

ETA: The one thing to watch there is that a military coat can be a little stiffer, though I like a stiff collar in the cold and wind - sits up much easier for a start. A good scarf, especially a silk one, solves any chafing issue.