What jeans are you wearing today ?

[grant]

Broke out the 1950's Lee dungarees with lots of period patch repairs.

 

[Aloysius]

Broke out the 1950's Lee dungarees with lots of period patch repairs. View attachment 374264

This is genuinely one of my fave jeans silhouettes. I prefer it by far to the Levi's pattern of the same time. The pair I wear most is the 30s version, and the pair I'm selling here is the 40s version, but the cut is comparable, which is interesting. Not as much the case for 501s across that span.

 

[Pandemic]

New CianoFarmer jeans arrived yesterday. I already have a pair in the Miner fit in size 32 which I love, but realised I could size down to 31. I requested an additional 1” at the opening (now about 9.5”) , to make sure they would easily cover any boots and never get caught up when I sit and then stand. I was a little afraid they would look too flared or bootcut but I’m very happy with the outcome. The Miner is a high rise true straight, so adding a bit at the bottom doesn’t alter the profile too much. Fantastic construction again. I love the soft yet insanely heavy pocket bags and reinforced back pockets. These were a six month wait, but luckily I have a second pair in the queue (heavy Japanese indigo) that should be ready in about a month.

 

[Will Zach]

New CianoFarmer jeans arrived yesterday. I already have a pair in the Miner fit in size 32 which I love, but realised I could size down to 31. I requested an additional 1” at the opening (now about 9.5”) , to make sure they would easily cover any boots and never get caught up when I sit and then stand. I was a little afraid they would look too flared or bootcut but I’m very happy with the outcome. The Miner is a high rise true straight, so adding a bit at the bottom doesn’t alter the profile too much. Fantastic construction again. I love the soft yet insanely heavy pocket bags and reinforced back pockets. These were a six month wait, but luckily I have a second pair in the queue (heavy Japanese indigo) that should be ready in about a month.

View attachment 376150 View attachment 376151

Look great, you don't see the 9.5" hem at all.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I need to get into raw denim like I need a hole in the head. I always get trapped by the intrigue of all these sub cultures. Here we are a little over a year later on these forums and I bought 30 something jackets. I fear what might happen here LOL. But I'm quickly going into the camp of buying fewer things at a higher quality.

Ok, I'm going to take the plunge and grab a pair or two of Bravestar. Being in Los Angeles, I want to support my fellow neighbors. @Mrfrown had a killer trucker that caught my eye and here we go down the rabbit hole. I followed their sizing instructions and think I got it, but there's a few questions.

I measured the flat waist then doubled. My comfortable jeans (Banana Republic, Gap, Levis, etc.) come out to about 37 to 37.5 inches. That's still a hair or two on the loose side though, not like falling off without a belt, but enough room to take a breath. 36 inches would be tight, but not so tight where they don't fit, but not something I'd want to wear all day or do any sort of physical activity in. So when I size a BS, am I supposed to assume this same "comfortable" measurement? I hear a lot about having the new jeans be tight so you can stretch and mold. But then I see you'll get about 1 size shrink on first wash. So am I sizing against the 37 (which is like their size 35) out of the box (i.e. they wont stretch much since they're not too tight and then shrink back to like a 36) or need to go a little tighter out of the box (i.e. better to get a molded/stretch fit and then hope the shrinking won't be so bad)? Btw, to get to the 50 or so wears before you're supposed to wash, that might be a solid year plus for me since I'm work from home nowadays.

And then on the inseam. 30 inches gives me the perfect end point if I don't want to cuff. I have a couple pairs at 32 which allow for a one roll cuff. If I want the same with the BS, should I go 32 or do I need to allow for some shrinking down the road? I was thinking about going 33 inch just in case and I could do a wider cuff or worst case do a double roll.

I'm thinking slim straight and/or slim taper. Don't want anything too skinny and I think true straight doesn't have enough taper for my tastes. Although I could see myself getting a pair of true straight if this experiment goes well.

And then for weight, I'm not going hardcore here. People already looking at me like I'm nuts wearing leather jackets in weather that's probably way past expiration. So having heavy jeans also will I think cannibalize that. I'm thinking 13 oz range. They have some black 16.5 avail that would probably be at the upper end of where I'd go.

Any advice, much appreciated. I should just take a drive down there. It's by the airport which is never fun to get to, but I guess being lazy over a couple hours in the car is an easy way to blow a few hundred bucks.

 

[Aloysius]

If you want a made in LA brand, just go with Railcar.

If you're open to non made-in-LA, just get Sugar Canes and you can retire from jeans searching early. They're spectacular, even compared to much more expensive makers.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

If you want a made in LA brand, just go with Railcar.

If you're open to non made-in-LA, just get Sugar Canes and you can retire from jeans searching early. They're spectacular, even compared to much more expensive makers.

thanks for info. I'll check out Railcar too. Sugarcane, I still kick myself to this day, I had a chance to buy a HD Cycle Champ style jacket from Buyee for like super cheap, $300 maybe. I forgot that they let the auction go later and went to bed early. Still dream about that jacket--teacore, full belt, etc. etc. And I'm guessing the denim is just as good.

Sizing wise though, your thoughts? Buy slightly tight and stretch to ideal size, or go with ideal size out of the gate?

Edit: Railcar is by some epic dimsum restaurants in the real Chinatown area of Los Angeles. Might give it a go next week or two. Love that they do shoe resoles too.

 

[Pandemic]

I need to get into raw denim like I need a hole in the head. I always get trapped by the intrigue of all these sub cultures. Here we are a little over a year later on these forums and I bought 30 something jackets. I fear what might happen here LOL. But I'm quickly going into the camp of buying fewer things at a higher quality.

Ok, I'm going to take the plunge and grab a pair or two of Bravestar. Being in Los Angeles, I want to support my fellow neighbors. @Mrfrown had a killer trucker that caught my eye and here we go down the rabbit hole. I followed their sizing instructions and think I got it, but there's a few questions.

I measured the flat waist then doubled. My comfortable jeans (Banana Republic, Gap, Levis, etc.) come out to about 37 to 37.5 inches. That's still a hair or two on the loose side though, not like falling off without a belt, but enough room to take a breath. 36 inches would be tight, but not so tight where they don't fit, but not something I'd want to wear all day or do any sort of physical activity in. So when I size a BS, am I supposed to assume this same "comfortable" measurement? I hear a lot about having the new jeans be tight so you can stretch and mold. But then I see you'll get about 1 size shrink on first wash. So am I sizing against the 37 (which is like their size 35) out of the box (i.e. they wont stretch much since they're not too tight and then shrink back to like a 36) or need to go a little tighter out of the box (i.e. better to get a molded/stretch fit and then hope the shrinking won't be so bad)? Btw, to get to the 50 or so wears before you're supposed to wash, that might be a solid year plus for me since I'm work from home nowadays.

And then on the inseam. 30 inches gives me the perfect end point if I don't want to cuff. I have a couple pairs at 32 which allow for a one roll cuff. If I want the same with the BS, should I go 32 or do I need to allow for some shrinking down the road? I was thinking about going 33 inch just in case and I could do a wider cuff or worst case do a double roll.

I'm thinking slim straight and/or slim taper. Don't want anything too skinny and I think true straight doesn't have enough taper for my tastes. Although I could see myself getting a pair of true straight if this experiment goes well.

And then for weight, I'm not going hardcore here. People already looking at me like I'm nuts wearing leather jackets in weather that's probably way past expiration. So having heavy jeans also will I think cannibalize that. I'm thinking 13 oz range. They have some black 16.5 avail that would probably be at the upper end of where I'd go.

Any advice, much appreciated. I should just take a drive down there. It's by the airport which is never fun to get to, but I guess being lazy over a couple hours in the car is an easy way to blow a few hundred bucks.

Waist: It varies a lot depending on the denim, but it’s more likely to stretch just a little bit than shrink. Think about how your favorite jeans feel right after they’ve been washed and go for that fit.

Inseam: Order 1” longer than what your goal is to allow for possible shrinkage. You are in LA, so you have future chain stitching options if you decide to go shorter later.

Style: it’s a personal preference, but I think all their fits are pretty slim. I much prefer the look of their ‘true straight’.

Weight: Again, a lot depends on the denim and it’s weave, but for me the sweet spot is around 15-16oz. That is heavier than your mall brand 12oz jeans but still gets soft and wearable. That said, I will also a ‘summer’ pair in 10-13oz.

 

[roadking04]

I need to get into raw denim like I need a hole in the head. I always get trapped by the intrigue of all these sub cultures. Here we are a little over a year later on these forums and I bought 30 something jackets. I fear what might happen here LOL. But I'm quickly going into the camp of buying fewer things at a higher quality.

I started down this rabbit hole last year at this time. My only experience is with BS. I went with the 21oz right from the rip. I followed the size chart and I believe mine are the size 35. I wear a size 38/30 550 Levi's. My Levi's were getting a little loose after some weight loss so I figured I would give BS a try.

Like I said, I am a complete NOOB in denim. I think Brave Star is the PERFECT entry point. I think they offer a great product at a great price, but I have nothing to compare them too. I would like to try Iron Heart next, but the price is scary to get the wrong size.

I went with the "stock" length (36). Way too long for my taste. One of the reasons I will be buying another pair here shortly. I have to do a thick 2" double cuff. On my second pair, I went with a 29 1/2" hem. I have yet to wash either pair, so I am not sure if they will shrink on the length yet (actually, I never thought about it). I might go with a 30" on the next pair.

My first pair was CRAZY stiff. Had to do the "screwdriver" trick just too get the button holes usable. The jeans stood up on their own. I could barely get them on at first, not because they were too tight, but because they were so stiff. I was able to button the waist so the size was right. Snug at first but probably stretched and inch since.

I went with the true straight. I like my jeans roomier, but not saggy. Nobody wants to see an older guy with a "dad bod" in skinny jeans. I actually wish they were a tad roomier in the "hip block" and thigh area. I am actually gonna try and size up an inch and see if they are roomier in those areas. The pocket area is a little snug and barely fits my samsung S21. My pockets are 7" deep, wish they were 8" or 9". Also, if you wear boots, you might wanna go with the true straight cut. Mine fit over my Wesco harness boots, but just barely.

My second pair was the Cone Mills 15oz. denim in a 35/29 1/2 hem. MUCH easier to wear at first (but not as fun, lol). I got these for "summer" use. I don't notice any difference in warmth. I think both pairs, like any jeans, are uncomfortable to wear in muggy summers. I don't think the 21oz pair is any warmer in cold weather, both are about the same. The only noticable difference between the 2 is on the motorcycle. I think the 21oz. blocks the wind a little better.

The main difference is the stiffness at first. The 15oz is not much crispier than Levis. The 21oz are WAY more serious. Actually left some red welts on the back of my legs after a 2 mile walk. My 21oz. have about 50-60 lighter wears on them. I don't use either pair for actual work. Mainly just going out of the house and stuff. The 21oz. ones are starting to break in nicely, but still holding on.

I have not washed either pair yet and I really don't have any fades yet. MAAAYBEEE some "honeycombing" starting on the 21oz. Like I said,50-60 light wears. I think the Cone Mills will take longer to fade.

I am going with another pair real soon from BS. I am going to size up one inch in the waist and hope for some more room in the hip block. And go with a 30" inseam. I am probably going with another 21oz pair, BUT, I might drink a few beers and say screw it, I am getting the 25 ouncers.

It has been very fun so far. I am sure you will enjoy the experience. Can't wait to hear about your journey.

not the greatest lighting this morning. And yes, that is a pic of the 21oz when new, standing by themselves with no assistance.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

So helpful. Thanks past few posters. Think I got a plan

 

[Edward]

I'm in one of my pairs of 13MWZs today. Got two pairs of those, one two years old, the other nearer three. They've both been patched on the inner thigh where I wear jeans out first every time. Pretty heavy wear this last two years; I don't as a general habit wear jeans out of the house so much, but with working from home so much and not going out socially this last couple of years... Only gripe with these is that they don't do them in a really dark indigo colour. For me, the holy grail of jeans is still a deep indigo that doesn't gradually wash out or show fades.

 

[handymike]

I have reverted back to 505s after my brief time with more expensive jean makers. I like all the fabrics, but I never feel comfortable in the various cuts. The Wranglers are very close to 505s, but @Edward is correct about the color. My Gustin Zimbabwe jeans are a wonderful color, but I haven’t worn them in years.

 

[Will Zach]

I'm in one of my pairs of 13MWZs today. Got two pairs of those, one two years old, the other nearer three. They've both been patched on the inner thigh where I wear jeans out first every time. Pretty heavy wear this last two years; I don't as a general habit wear jeans out of the house so much, but with working from home so much and not going out socially this last couple of years... Only gripe with these is that they don't do them in a really dark indigo colour. For me, the holy grail of jeans is still a deep indigo that doesn't gradually wash out or show fades.

@Edward - being a chemist, I was also interested in the processes by which indigo washes out or shows fades. The problem is that indigo does not covalently bond to cotton (does not form a chemical bond, which is one of the strongest in nature - not including nuclear forces of course). Reactive dyes do form covalent bonds with cotton, but indigo can't. Instead, it basically gets into the nooks and crannies of the fabric, from where it can be removed by washing or rubbing. Internet search shows that you can somewhat "fix it" by a vinegar bath and then a heat treatment. It might work to some extent, but I doubt it. Or you can try this: https://www.dharmatrading.com/chemicals/retayne.html. May be worth an experiment or two.

 

[Pandemic]

I wish more brands offered black jeans fixed with a reactive dye. I’m ok with indigo fades, but I prefer my black jeans not to turn grey and full of fade lines.

 

[dwilson]

You have access to Self Edge in LA a well to check out the Japanese denim scene. My problem with MiUSA jeans is the denim is all pretty similar and kind of bland for my tastes. In terms of long lasting my Iron Hearts have outlived any previous pairs I've owned. I have worn them pretty much every day for 2 years and they aren't showing any signs of failing anytime soon. By contrast my Flat Heads and Strike Golds both failed after maybe 18 months with some big holes.

 

[Rich22]

Sizing raw jeans can be a pain. They do shrink if entirely raw and not one-washed or sanferised (which I prefer). Expect them to shrink all round. I've personally found the waist does eventually stretch out beyond the original size. I'd go snug, personally.

In terms of length I'd add a couple of inches past what you hope for. I've started out rolling up the jeans this way, but after a few washes I revert to having no turn up. Turn ups look better on skinny men with narrower jeans I find- I'm stocky, and I'm not sure it suits my frame.

The last point I'd make is that very thick jeans don't have great mobility, so don't go too tight across the thighs and around the knees.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

thanks again for additional info. Yeah, I've almost hit buy a few times now and then sidetracked. Also I was waiting to see if I could find a coupon or welcome code or something like that. Plus black friday coming up, not sure they do anything. This isn't a need to have purchase (like most things I do on here LOL)

What's throwing me is a few YT videos where people reference the size they bought. There's one with this bigger polynesian guy where he said he bought size 33 and in comments people are saying to buy size 32 because of the stretch. I was looking at a 35 on the relaxed side, 34 if I want to go tighter route. So now I'm really confused LOL.

Sanity check. I know it's not an exact science and so many variable, but if I was a 33 in Levis, Gap, Banana Republic, etc. slim styles (6'0 185 lbs), what does that translate to just as a rule of thumb maybe for Bravestar. The actual measurements on a size 33 for the mall stuff are 18 inches one side, so 36. Those fit but like I said a touch tight and there's some elastane or whatever in them. So that's why I was thinking about going up to 37 or 37.5 actual measurement. But if you get a full inch stretch, I think can probably push to 36 actual or like a size 34 for Bravestar.

I've read enough discussion here and just browsing YT to know Japanese denim seems to be whole other world. But I got to draw the line somewhere. I might wear jeans 50-75 times a year nowadays. So if I buy 2 pairs of these plus the 10 plus of whatever I got, they're not going to get many wears. So I don't think I have to worry about longevity. I'm buying a black pair that I can cuff and a dark sky blue that I can cuff. Basically the 2 missing pieces from the rest of what I got.

 

[El Marro]

Sanity check. I know it's not an exact science and so many variable, but if I was a 33 in Levis, Gap, Banana Republic, etc. slim styles (6'0 185 lbs), what does that translate to just as a rule of thumb maybe for Bravestar.

I am a 36 in Levis and I wear a 36 in Brave Star true straight. I would start out with your Levis size for your first pair and adjust accordingly if you want tighter or looser.

 

[Rich22]

Whatever you do, entirely ignore tag sizes on any clothes you own. Measure the waist of the trousers you own, and look at actual waist measurements listed for the jeans you'd like to buy.

Levi's, and others, engage in vanity sizing- even when I had a 37" waist I could comfortably fit in tag 34 Levi's. Now I have a 34" waist those same jeans hang off me.

 

[Bfd70]

I may have posted this already. Not sure. It’s denim head heresy but true. I’ve had a lot of high end denim. I’m sitting on 1/2 dozen pairs that are just a little too tight. I’m middle aged. My weight fluctuates. I like brands that add 2% stretch. Naked and Famous weird guy are a nice product at a good price. Two other non stretch brands that imo don’t get enough attention are Freenote and Imogene and willie.