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What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Kevin O'Sullivan

One of the Regulars
Messages
120
I feel ya. Certainly not concerned, just not used to seeing this type of reaction on any of my other pieces and curious if this is the norm. Seems like it is and it's part of the evolution process, which is all good!
It's not the norm, and it's definitely annoying. But it is a risk with very light or natural aniline finishes for sure.

Grab a Thedi for the next one and then it comes with the relicing (or vintaging, whatever you want to call it) and you will never worry about it. I got a used Thedi shawl for $750, which is in the range of standard used for them, and it's been an amazing jacket through all weather.
 

Buick

Familiar Face
Messages
82
Wearing this Aero Highwayman today, from 2014. Love the colour and the FQHH is less shiny and somehow softer than my black Aero. What do you think about the sleeve length? Personally I often fold back sleeves on denim jackets etc so they are more out of the way, so I quite like these just coming to the top of my hand - but I wonder if it is seen as an ‘incorrect’ fit? (I’m not particularly concerned either way - just interested in perspective on this). Thanks!
IMG_5667.jpeg
 
Messages
16,851
Wearing this Aero Highwayman today, from 2014. Love the colour and the FQHH is less shiny and somehow softer than my black Aero. What do you think about the sleeve length? Personally I often fold back sleeves on denim jackets etc so they are more out of the way, so I quite like these just coming to the top of my hand - but I wonder if it is seen as an ‘incorrect’ fit? (I’m not particularly concerned either way - just interested in perspective on this). Thanks!
View attachment 620789

I think it's good. Sleeve length is very subjective and depends on the jacket of course but generally (and in my opinion, of course), for a leather jacket of this style, you don't want them to go much below your wrists, precisely so they're not in the way.
 

Buick

Familiar Face
Messages
82
Thanks @Bfd70 and @Monitor - that’s good to hear. The sleeves on my black Aero are a little longer but still not right down onto the back of my hand. I imagine opinions would vary, but it’s encouraging to get a couple of positives. Much appreciated.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
It's not the norm, and it's definitely annoying. But it is a risk with very light or natural aniline finishes for sure.

Grab a Thedi for the next one and then it comes with the relicing (or vintaging, whatever you want to call it) and you will never worry about it. I got a used Thedi shawl for $750, which is in the range of standard used for them, and it's been an amazing jacket through all weather.

i don’t know about annoying. I guess it’s a question of expectations.

With my „unfinished“ hides, I am open to constant evolution due to exposure. Similarly, with veg-tan hides, I do expect the leather to soak up water as opposed to repelling it.

Thedi makes one great jacket for sure. He treats a lot of his hides with beeswax, applied while soaking the pieces. That pretty much renders the jackets waterproof.

I don’t think, water stains is a defect per se. It does affect the optics, but not the integrity.
I guess there’s no right or wrong in this question.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
Looks like a perfect fit aside from the length. Personally, I can't wear jackets above my belt. Looks great open. The only way to remedy the fit closed is with a pair of Steve Erkels jeans. It looks like the back dips a bit?

Thanks. Yeah, high rise jeans is not for me.

I would prefer an extra inch, but I can live with it. It’s more or less the same length as my Y2 (which is a totally different patter, and the dramatic taper in the TMC enhances the shortness, IMO.

Good point about the back drop. Haven’t checked yet, actually.
 

Atg_Stl

New in Town
Messages
20
i don’t know about annoying. I guess it’s a question of expectations.

With my „unfinished“ hides, I am open to constant evolution due to exposure. Similarly, with veg-tan hides, I do expect the leather to soak up water as opposed to repelling it.

Thedi makes one great jacket for sure. He treats a lot of his hides with beeswax, applied while soaking the pieces. That pretty much renders the jackets waterproof.

I don’t think, water stains is a defect per se. It does affect the optics, but not the integrity.
I guess there’s no right or wrong in this question.
I had not even heard of this brand before today, but damn does he make some fine looking jackets!! Curious, anyone have an average price point for one of his pieces or ballpark? This custom Double Helix ended up being about $1300 all-in (maybe slightly less) which I think is reasonable all things considered (far cheaper than buying online or retail) so wondering how these might compare to Japanese brands.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
I had not even heard of this brand before today, but damn does he make some fine looking jackets!! Curious, anyone have an average price point for one of his pieces or ballpark? This custom Double Helix ended up being about $1300 all-in (maybe slightly less) which I think is reasonable all things considered (far cheaper than buying online or retail) so wondering how these might compare to Japanese brands.

You can expect a Thedi to be around USD 1.500, depending on model. If you’re based in the US, you can have a look at the Thurston Bros. webpage. They should be one of the largest stockists of Thedi that side of the pond.
This is one of his bestselling models. The hide is water buffalo, finished with beeswax. Very hardwearing and water resistant which makes it a great travel jacket.

IMG_5005.jpeg
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,782
Location
CA
My bounty hunters in natural Maryam also do it. Altho, some water will stain and some will dry clean seemingly without logic. I've found a slightly damp cloth wipe followed by vigorous brushing with a hh brush will help blend it somewhat. As the leather ages it will be much less noticeable but some just stay forever.

May want to apply a wax heavy conditioner like saphir, that may help somewhat.

1000020840.jpg
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
Appena arrivato, dovevo provarlo!!!! Non potevo sperare in un capitolo migliore.
Grazie a Mandarino che mi ha venduto questo Sugar Cane Indian

I am a massive fan of Sugar Cane and every one of their leather jackets I've seen has blown me away, yet I pretty much never see them for sale even on Japanese sites.

Sorry to bother you with my nonsense, guys, but I think I found a new use for my D-1: turning it over, haha
View attachment 620845

Ha the Japanese stores do this when posting sizing pics of every item.
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,782
Location
CA
I am a massive fan of Sugar Cane and every one of their leather jackets I've seen has blown me away, yet I pretty much never see them for sale even on Japanese sites.



Ha the Japanese stores do this when posting sizing pics of every item.
I've seen some nice Sugar Canes and a lot with pretty cheap looking leather that has lost topcoat in an ugly way. I believe some are made in China but sure. Quality seems up and down.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
I've seen some nice Sugar Canes and a lot with pretty cheap looking leather that has lost topcoat in an ugly way. I believe some are made in China but sure. Quality seems up and down.

I know what you're referring to, but you have it slightly wrong (not your fault but people doing sneaky mislabeling).

Toyo Enterprises, which owns Sugar Cane, owns the rights to Indian Motorcycle merchandise in Japan.

Now this merchandise ranges in quality from mall clothes (although some of those are actually well made) to high end stuff made by Dehen and Sugar Cane.

So you're probably seeing listings for the mall market "Indian" stuff but they're sneakily labeling it Sugar Cane on the auctions and such.
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,782
Location
CA
I'll have to keep an eye out then. But I haven't seen evidence that sugar cane leather items are made in Japan exclusively, and I don't think I've seen a made in Japan tag on them. Since Toyo has farmed some stuff out to China it makes me more suspicious.

But I think my mr freedom headquarters jacket is made by sugar cane and it's quite high quality so no complaints there.

Example: sugar cane made in China


Here's one listed as made in Japan

 

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
I'll have to keep an eye out then. But I haven't seen evidence that sugar cane leather items are made in Japan exclusively, and I don't think I've seen a made in Japan tag on them. Since Toyo has farmed some stuff or to China it makes me more suspicious.

But I think my mr freedom headquarters jacket is made by sugar cane and it's quite high quality so no complaints there.
Yeah I've had only good experiences with SC goods, including those under the MF label.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
I'll have to keep an eye out then. But I haven't seen evidence that sugar cane leather items are made in Japan exclusively, and I don't think I've seen a made in Japan tag on them. Since Toyo has farmed some stuff out to China it makes me more suspicious.

But I think my mr freedom headquarters jacket is made by sugar cane and it's quite high quality so no complaints there.

Example: sugar cane made in China

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Here's one listed as made in Japan

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The above jacket is still a high end item. It's different from the mall Toyo brands and SC is pretty explicit about it being made in China, like some of the Tailor Toyo stuff.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
And then there are mid-tier lines like United Carr, which is Buzz Rickson's patterns but less military in aesthetic. Or Moduct, which is like Buzz Rickson's meets Arc'teryx. Still high end construction, but made in China.
 

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