Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,075
Location
Philadelphia
View attachment 603246 View attachment 603247 View attachment 603248 View attachment 603249 Toys McCoy Durable Code 33

I’m really impressed with this jacket and feel like it’s the last word (and first?) on a perfecto. Part of me wonders if I should have gone a size up for a little more room but really liking the lengths. The eternal trade off with OTR. What do you guys think?

My favorite angle is definitely the back. Love the exaggerated proportions and drop.

Spectacular! Definitely don’t need to go up a size.

Looks like they pretty much nailed the fit of the original with maybe the exception of slimming the upper sleeve a tad..? Could you post a side fit zipped and unzipped?
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
A Regius with a view.
IMG_6045.jpeg
 
Messages
16,851
View attachment 603246 View attachment 603247 View attachment 603248 View attachment 603249 Toys McCoy Durable Code 33

I’m really impressed with this jacket and feel like it’s the last word (and first?) on a perfecto. Part of me wonders if I should have gone a size up for a little more room but really liking the lengths. The eternal trade off with OTR. What do you guys think?

My favorite angle is definitely the back. Love the exaggerated proportions and drop.

Man, I would've killed for this some years back.

It looks good but it's hugging you tight. How do you feel wearing it?
 

soundwavvves

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Spectacular! Definitely don’t need to go up a size.

Looks like they pretty much nailed the fit of the original with maybe the exception of slimming the upper sleeve a tad..? Could you post a side fit zipped and unzipped?

Sure thing here’s the side fit
IMG_1592.png
IMG_1590.png
IMG_1591.png


Man, I would've killed for this some years back.

It looks good but it's hugging you tight. How do you feel wearing it?

It honestly feels like the correct size for my body, but I can definitely feel the difference between these shoulder gussets and the full action back I’ve had with my last several jackets, in terms of freedom of motion. This is about 3-3.5” ease in the chest and maybe an inch and a half at the waist. At the moment though I am about 10-15 pounds heavier than what I’d consider my normal baseline so it would probably be better all around for me to get back to the skatepark than size up to accommodate being out of shape haha
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
View attachment 603246 View attachment 603247 View attachment 603248 View attachment 603249 Toys McCoy Durable Code 33

I’m really impressed with this jacket and feel like it’s the last word (and first?) on a perfecto. Part of me wonders if I should have gone a size up for a little more room but really liking the lengths. The eternal trade off with OTR. What do you guys think?

My favorite angle is definitely the back. Love the exaggerated proportions and drop.

Spectacular!

I am sure you could have pulled off one up, but looks great as it is.
 
Messages
16,851
Sure thing here’s the side fit
View attachment 603311 View attachment 603312 View attachment 603313



It honestly feels like the correct size for my body, but I can definitely feel the difference between these shoulder gussets and the full action back I’ve had with my last several jackets, in terms of freedom of motion. This is about 3-3.5” ease in the chest and maybe an inch and a half at the waist. At the moment though I am about 10-15 pounds heavier than what I’d consider my normal baseline so it would probably be better all around for me to get back to the skatepark than size up to accommodate being out of shape haha

It looks great on you but now I'm genuinely curious how a jacket that's one size larger would fit you but I don't see any reason why you wouldn't keep this one. Fits you a lot like it does Brando in the movie, especially around the waist so it's all good. I wouldn't worry.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,075
Location
Philadelphia
Sure thing here’s the side fit
View attachment 603311 View attachment 603312 View attachment 603313



It honestly feels like the correct size for my body, but I can definitely feel the difference between these shoulder gussets and the full action back I’ve had with my last several jackets, in terms of freedom of motion. This is about 3-3.5” ease in the chest and maybe an inch and a half at the waist. At the moment though I am about 10-15 pounds heavier than what I’d consider my normal baseline so it would probably be better all around for me to get back to the skatepark than size up to accommodate being out of shape haha

Nice and short with a flattering cut like the original. They slimmed the sleeves up a bit and also looks a tad less V shaped with slightly narrower shoulders and less of a front drop. Although from the back you can still see quite the V shape.

Overall this is the closest repro to the original Durable I have seen. Looks killer on you man!

They don’t really mention anything about the cut on their website and instead focus on details, which they nailed except the main zip being a Crown instead of a Talon like the original movie jacket. I wonder how close to the original they were going for as far as cut in trying to reproduce this jacket.

I’ve been looking to get one of these so this is very helpful. Thank you for posting!
 

soundwavvves

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Spectacular!

I am sure you could have pulled off one up, but looks great as it is.
Thanks Tom, I appreciate the feedback! Overall I’m happy with the fit.

It looks great on you but now I'm genuinely curious how a jacket that's one size larger would fit you but I don't see any reason why you wouldn't keep this one. Fits you a lot like it does Brando in the movie, especially around the waist so it's all good. I wouldn't worry.
Ugh me too haha the lingering what-if. I bought it second hand though and can’t afford to front a second one for the purpose of a side-by-side. So I’ll call it good and get some cardio. Who knows might **** around and remove a perfectly beautiful lining
 

soundwavvves

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Nice and short with a flattering cut like the original. They slimmed the sleeves up a bit and also looks a tad less V shaped with slightly narrower shoulders and less of a front drop. Although from the back you can still see quite the V shape.

Overall this is the closest repro to the original Durable I have seen. Looks killer on you man!

They don’t really mention anything about the cut on their website and instead focus on details, which they nailed except the main zip being a Crown instead of a Talon like the original movie jacket. I wonder how close to the original they were going for as far as cut in trying to reproduce this jacket.

I’ve been looking to get one of these so this is very helpful. Thank you for posting!

Thanks man! Yeah TMC tweaked a few things on their version which I believe were deliberate refinements. Where the original jacket’s shoulder width equaled the chest width, this jacket has 19.5” shoulders and a 21” chest. And as much as I like the idea of a 22” back, I think the inch TMC added ultimately makes it more wearable for me, since I don’t rock high waisted jeans very often. A Talon main zip would have been awesome too but the NOS Crown is very cool, and I’m glad they went silver instead of brass. I’m also okay with the sleeves being slimmer so they can fit me closer to the way Brando’s fit him.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeo

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,075
Location
Philadelphia
Where the original jacket’s shoulder width equaled the chest width, this jacket has 19.5” shoulders and a 21” chest.

Where did you hear that? That’s incorrect.

Here’s my original size 38.

20.5” chest

IMG_8379.jpeg


19.5” shoulders

IMG_8383.jpeg


17” (17.5” fully flattened) waist

IMG_8380.jpeg


23” back length

IMG_8384.jpeg



I’m also okay with the sleeves being slimmer so they can fit me closer to the way Brando’s fit him.

I don’t believe they slimmed the sleeves down on the movie jacket. It’s speculated that they narrowed the waist to make it more V shaped but I don’t believe that to be true.

What size is yours?

Measurements seem to be pretty close, but I’m sure the cut isn’t identical and the pattern makes a huge difference.

Here’s how my original size 36 fits and a comparison in how they fit on me and you. Of course, we both fill out our jackets differently but you can still see how the cut isn’t identical. Once I get a size 36 Toys McCoy I’ll know for sure what the differences are.

FDDB421E-E01C-4F88-8C8D-6146133052A7.jpeg

370EAD25-4A1B-4506-8600-16AD01544724.jpeg
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
Last edited:

soundwavvves

One of the Regulars
Messages
114
Where did you hear that? That’s incorrect.

From here, with photos
First up is the Durable. This is a vintage piece that was relined, had the zippers replaced, and was redyed about 10 years ago. The leather is very soft and thin and I don't wear this very often, it's more a collectible piece at this point.

Durable 40:
P2P: 21"
Waist: 18"
Back Length: 22"
Sleeve shoulder seam to end: 23"
Middle collar to sleeve end: 34"
Shoulder: 21"

Awesome info and comparisons, thanks for putting that together. This really deserves its own thread.

Our jackets are very similar based on the tape. This TMC is a 38.

Hem is 17.75” or 18.25” smashed flat
Sleeves are 24” measured straight or about 25.25” along the curve
Front length is 24”

I don’t believe they slimmed the sleeves down on the movie jacket.
I just meant they fit him slim. I’m not built like 29yo Brando so the sleeves on the movie jacket would almost certainly be roomy on me. But the sleeves on the TMC accomplish the movie fit on a thinner guy which is cool.

IMG_1593.jpeg
IMG_1594.jpeg
 
Messages
16,851
From here, with photos


Awesome info and comparisons, thanks for putting that together. This really deserves its own thread.

Our jackets are very similar based on the tape. This TMC is a 38.

Hem is 17.75” or 18.25” smashed flat
Sleeves are 24” measured straight or about 25.25” along the curve
Front length is 24”


I just meant they fit him slim. I’m not built like 29yo Brando so the sleeves on the movie jacket would almost certainly be roomy on me. But the sleeves on the TMC accomplish the movie fit on a thinner guy which is cool.

View attachment 603400 View attachment 603401

Yours fits you as close as it gets plus Brando was relatively chubby in the movie whist you're not. Brando's jacket is completely unlined, too so it's bound to fit different. Toy has narrowed the shoulders a tiny bit because the original was made in lieu of the fashion of the day which didn't translate well into 2020, I think it was when these came out? plus they generally wanted people to look good in them. Old motorcycle jackets have crude patterns. Being over-garments, they were intended to be stuffed with several layers of wool.
 
Last edited:

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
Yours fits you as close as it gets plus Brando was relatively chubby in the movie whist you're not. Brando's jacket is completely unlined, too so it's bound to fit different. Toy has narrowed the shoulders a tiny bit because the original was made in lieu of the fashion of the day which didn't translate well into 2020, I think it was when these came out? plus they generally wanted people to look good in them. Old motorcycle jackets have crude patterns. Being over-garments, they were intended to be stuffed with several layers of wool.

Absolutely agree!

There are some members here who can pull off the vintage originals. I am not one of them. Thus, I am all in on a well made repro with gentle pattern adjustments to please today’s expectations (and physiques).

Full disclosure: I never liked how Brando looked in the movie. Talk about sausage casing. A fit like this requires below 10% body fat. Not over 25%…
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,991
Absolutely agree!

There are some members here who can pull off the vintage originals. I am not one of them. Thus, I am all in on a well made repro with gentle pattern adjustments to please today’s expectations (and physiques).

Full disclosure: I never liked how Brando looked in the movie. Talk about sausage casing. A fit like this requires below 10% body fat. Not over 25%…

To TMC's credit, they don't do the absurd Japanese sizing on these. a 44 has 24"/61.5cm pit to pit and 25"/62cm length.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,295
Messages
3,078,181
Members
54,244
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top