What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

[Canuck Panda]

Happened on my RMC too. Had to go to Great Leathers.

Thats unfortunate! These old ones are like that though. The first teeth doesn’t push the male in place.
Love your side car btw. I’ve always wanted one to take my dogs out. With the goggles.

Could we see a full picture of your contrast-stitched blue jacket underneath pleeeease?
Is it the same jacket that langlitz posted on their IG account?

Langlitz makes very serious jackets! The last time I checked their wait was long but recently The lead times seems to come back to normal.

 

[photo2u]

Not all "NOS" #5 talons are created equals. Talon made the bell-shaped zipper for about 40 years. Personally, I particularly do not use 70's talons #5 because the quality is not as good as the 40-60s. I noticed that some older aereo's used some of late talon 70s zippers. If you look closely at the back of the sliders, there are making that show the approximate production years. Perhaps I can share some photos that clearly demonstrate the differences? As you probably know, there are resources on this site for the front of the zipper box and pullers. However, some pullers can be very deceiving. Talon used a font design in the late 40s that was re-used in their late 60s zippers. The quality is very different.

 

[MrProper]

I also don't think the modern 10s can fit into their jackets the Aero way (tucked all the way in), there is no room for the wider teeth. Which is why they are hesitant to do it I believe.

Here is a 10 YKK, which is pretty well hidden. So seems to work with a 10 as well.

 

[MrProper]

Meanwhile, cool enough not to look completely out of place with a jacket. At least in the morning.

 

[Tom71]

I did ask them when I ordered KOTR and the answer I got is it won't fit even if you supplied.

Yes, and on a cross-zip that´s especially unfortunate. I didn´t have a zipper failure on my bootlegger, but the no. 5 is just soooo fiddly that I don´t even try to zip it up after the second beer.

 

[Whitters]

Damn nice shirt. Any details on the make and sizing?

the shop Vancouver x y'2 leather sk-13 vintage pony western shirt.
Size 42 equivalent iron heart size large

 

[Canuck Panda]

Here is a 10 YKK, which is pretty well hidden. So seems to work with a 10 as well.

I am sorry if my last zip post sent the wrong message.

What I was trying to say is that there is a mechanical difference between OLD zips, which Aero/LW/GW uses, regardless of size, regardless of how they are installed, IS DIFFERENT, than the new zips.

The OLD male pins likes to stray out of the old female socket. He is not a one hole guy. The new female sockets knows this, so she pulls the male pin in and locks him in there, and reinforce the control by enlisting one of her teeth buddies to keep the male pin suppressed down. The new male pin has been groomed from the start so there is that extra dent at the top for the first teeth to check it down with.

Even the old zips fail by design, I still favor them. I am the old male pin.

But as a far as dedicated motorcycle gear goes, modern zips are better. Safety first.

How the zips are installed, or what brands, I will leave that up to you. I am no expert in that field. All I wanted to point out is how the old zips are different. And without them failing the way they did, there be no new zips.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not all "NOS" #5 talons are created equals. Talon made the bell-shaped zipper for about 40 years. Personally, I particularly do not use 70's talons #5 because the quality is not as good as the 40-60s. I noticed that some older aereo's used some of late talon 70s zippers. If you look closely at the back of the sliders, there are making that show the approximate production years. Perhaps I can share some photos that clearly demonstrate the differences? As you probably know, there are resources on this site for the front of the zipper box and pullers. However, some pullers can be very deceiving. Talon used a font design in the late 40s that was re-used in their late 60s zippers. The quality is very different.

I've notice this too. Not all NOS are the same. There is a time when the mechanism changed. Also one thing to consider is some of these NOS zips could've been factory seconds too which lead to more failure.

But as bad as these NOS zips are. The patina on them just can't be replicated. For casual wear they are just fine.

 

[yellowfever]

Damn @Canuck Panda I love that blue contrast stitched padded Langlitz! That is a really beautiful looking jacket…. Do you have a thread on it or more pics of it?

On zips, I’m firmly in the form follows function camp, give me a size 10 every timel Even more so for riding kit given safety concerns as another person has already said.

YKK indeed make a solid reliable No 10 zip, and even better they’ll sell you one individually to your specified length/colour etc if you’re prepared to wait a little. They are robust, comparatively inexpensive and work easily. So I’m happy enough with them.

That said they are not perfect. My (vanson branded puller) YKK No.10 did start to fail on my Vanson CSRX after 10+ years as my main riding jacket. It went, as zips often do, due to the zipper tape by the male pin starting to wear and fray despite the tape reinforcement. Every time you insert the pin the tape rubs against the slot in the zipper box. Metal box vs even reinforced zipper tape cloth means inevitably over time time the tape will wear and finally fail.

This is frustrating given the inconvenience and cost of getting a replacement zip fitted, especially when it’s well known that better design and a tiny extra cost could avoid it. Some old RIRI zips (and maybe some old German zips too?) had metal reinforcement here to prevent this issue. Riri still do this in some of their more modern zips (like with the brass No.10 on my vanson horsehide jacket), but now they use hard (plastic?nylon?) reinforcement here instead of metal. Sadly unlike YKK, Riri won’t sell retail customers zips except in bulk so it’s hard to get hold of them. But if you want a truly bombproof zip I’d get a riri number 10 with this reinforcement if you can find one…

Or if you want vintage get a crown spring loaded No.10 (if you can find one/pay the price at MASH) as they look awesome and feel very solid indeed (albeit they don’t have the plastic tape reinforcement riri does)..

 

[Canuck Panda]

Damn @Canuck Panda I love that blue contrast stitched padded Langlitz! That is a really beautiful looking jacket…. Do you have a thread on it or more pics of it?

On zips, I’m firmly in the form follows function camp, give me a size 10 every timel Even more so for riding kit given safety concerns as another person has already said.

YKK indeed make a solid reliable No 10 zip, and even better they’ll sell you one individually to your specified length/colour etc if you’re prepared to wait a little. They are robust, comparatively inexpensive and work easily. So I’m happy enough with them.

That said they are not perfect. My (vanson branded puller) YKK No.10 did start to fail on my Vanson CSRX after 10+ years as my main riding jacket. It went, as zips often do, due to the zipper tape by the male pin starting to wear and fray despite the tape reinforcement. Every time you insert the pin the tape rubs against the slot in the zipper box. Metal box vs even reinforced zipper tape cloth means inevitably over time time the tape will wear and finally fail.

This is frustrating given the inconvenience and cost of getting a replacement zip fitted, especially when it’s well known that better design and a tiny extra cost could avoid it. Some old RIRI zips (and maybe some old German zips too?) had metal reinforcement here to prevent this issue. Riri still do this in some of their more modern zips (like with the brass No.10 on my vanson horsehide jacket), but now they use hard (plastic?nylon?) reinforcement here instead of metal. Sadly unlike YKK, Riri won’t sell retail customers zips except in bulk so it’s hard to get hold of them. But if you want a truly bombproof zip I’d get a riri number 10 with this reinforcement if you can find one…

Or if you want vintage get a crown spring loaded No.10 (if you can find one/pay the price at MASH) as they look awesome and feel very solid indeed (albeit they don’t have the plastic tape reinforcement riri does)..

Thanks! In the Langliz thread. I just realized I didn't take any outside photos? Will do that. Langlitz makes great jackets.

I hear you. Replacing zipper sucks. And YKK 10s or Riri are fail proof. I want to learn how to replace them myself.

When I order my LW "B" I will order it with the Crown zip for sure. I got a used J24 that has the old paper clip. The Crown upgrades are expensive though.

 

[yellowfever]

Thanks! In the Langliz thread. I just realized I didn't take any outside photos? Will do that. Langlitz makes great jackets.

I hear you. Replacing zipper sucks. And YKK 10s or Riri are fail proof. I want to learn how to replace them myself.

When I order my LW "B" I will order it with the Crown zip for sure. I got a used J24 that has the old paper clip. The Crown upgrades are expensive though.

Thanks! I’m gonna take a look…

yeah crown is the way to go for sure on the LW, even with the huge upcharge.. Do it once, do it right…

 

[JMax]

Thanks! In the Langliz thread. I just realized I didn't take any outside photos? Will do that. Langlitz makes great jackets.

I hear you. Replacing zipper sucks. And YKK 10s or Riri are fail proof. I want to learn how to replace them myself.

When I order my LW "B" I will order it with the Crown zip for sure. I got a used J24 that has the old paper clip. The Crown upgrades are expensive though.

Crown worth it on the main zip. Other zips, not as much imo. But still nice

 

[photo2u]

I am sorry if my last zip post sent the wrong message.

What I was trying to say is that there is a mechanical difference between OLD zips, which Aero/LW/GW uses, regardless of size, regardless of how they are installed, IS DIFFERENT, than the new zips.

View attachment 446328
The OLD male pins likes to stray out of the old female socket. He is not a one hole guy. The new female sockets knows this, so she pulls the male pin in and locks him in there, and reinforce the control by enlisting one of her teeth buddies to keep the male pin suppressed down. The new male pin has been groomed from the start so there is that extra dent at the top for the first teeth to check it down with.

Even the old zips fail by design, I still favor them. I am the old male pin.

But as a far as dedicated motorcycle gear goes, modern zips are better. Safety first.

How the zips are installed, or what brands, I will leave that up to you. I am no expert in that field. All I wanted to point out is how the old zips are different. And without them failing the way they did, there be no new zips.

Safety is always first in my book also. I believe that are excellent new zippers being produced. The zipper in the white jacket is from the late 70s. Those did not have that bell shape pulls. The quality of the teeth is not on par with the 40-60s zippers. I have seen aeros with late 70s talon zippers. In my experience, the teeth fail. Not the pins or the sliders. In my view, those zippers have no business on medium to heavy-weight jackets. As a user, I always make it into a habit of making sure the male pin has properly sat on the female box before I start to pull up on it.

 

[JMax]

Admired my early Cal CHP today. This jacket is nicer than most Cals I have owned. Right there with the Star Glove I had. If you are chasing a Cal, this is the hide to chase. Red label.

 

[photo2u]

The detail in the jacket is excellent. The stitching in the most important areas are clean. Look at the sleeve ends. Just diamonds. One upgrade I like is the neck area. Love those extra leather protectors. Adding brass rivets and bullet proofing the collar are upgrades I am planing to do to some of my heavy-duty jackets. Lastly, you have to love the old school batch.

 

[JMax]

The detail in the jacket is excellent. The stitching in the most important areas are clean. Look at the sleeve ends. Just diamonds. One upgrade I like is the neck area. Love those extra leather protectors. Adding brass rivets and bullet proofing the collar are upgrades I am planing to do to some of my heavy-duty jackets. Lastly, you have to love the old school batch.

Yes! This one would make the stitch counters and those that holster rulers sorta happy. Maybe. Probably not. There is one or two typical Cal dodgy lines on the hem.

Though I will say that some of those folks that value perfect stitching see straight lines and I swear the stitch lines sometimes look crooked in the pictures. Must be the camera angle. No way every FW or RC ever made has anything but laser-straight stitching. No way.

Anyways, yes, a very functional and bulletproof jacket in one of the nicest vintage HH one can find. That’s enough for me.

 

[Blackadder]

Yes! This one would make the stitch counters and those that holster rulers sorta happy. Maybe. Probably not. There is one or two typical Cal dodgy lines on the hem.

Though I will say that some of those folks that value perfect stitching see straight lines and I swear the stitch lines sometimes look crooked in the pictures. Must be the camera angle. No way every FW or RC ever made has anything but laser-straight stitching. No way.

Anyways, yes, a very functional and bulletproof jacket in one of the nicest vintage HH one can find. That’s enough for me.

Love your jacket. Hope I can find one in my size. I find this straight zip pattern oversized compared to the cross zip pattern. Most I have seen around are pretty loose for their tag size given the general pattern in that era.

No FW or RC don't but it is one thing to having a few defective products (individual item having quality issues) and another to treating it as a norm. I remember White's local dealer telling me that it is normal to have very noticeable wobbly stitching and mis-matched heels. He said that is normal for hand crafted products. Well he also sells Tricker's and I doubt his standard about hand crafted products applies to Tricker's. Yes Tricker's may not be laser straight but at least not easily noticeable. Besides, Tricker's would happily take those back and let you exchange. It is another thing to tell you that it is normal and the next pair would most probably be the same. The real distinction is therefore White's make work boots while Tricker's make dress shoes. However, once you start getting White's with high end leather, it becomes high end product but still with the same sloppy work and QC. That have always baffled me until Dave Himel gave his explanation on mass produced vs custom. I accepted his explanation and decided that I would stick with OTR and avoid custom work.

 

[JMax]

Where can I find Dave Himel’s explanation? I’d like to read it. Is it here? If it is I can go looking through his posts.

What size are you hunting for? I’ll keep an eye out.

 

[Marc mndt]

No way every FW or RC ever made has anything but laser-straight stitching. No way.

FW French seam sleave on the left vs Thedi on the right.

I've owned a Vanson with straighter stitching than this FW labrea lol.

Vanson :

 

[Carlos840]

Check this thread, I think the same answer applies.

Personally I think it's a shame that RMC uses such scarred hides for their supposedly high end jackets. If I'm buying high end (and paying top dollar) I expect the maker to cut around scars like this.

It's weird to see such massive pores on RMC leather, it almost looks like Vanson's new Comp weight1
Is RMC using sanded leather now? None of my RMC from a few years ago show anything similar...