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What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
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2,912
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Bay Area CA
I absolutely do! I'll never get tired of seeing that jacket on you.

Thanks man! Not a lot of change yet since you had it but I wear it as much as I can! It's such a wondefully made jacket.


No i didn't, only tapering it from straight legged paintball/ outdoor /hiking camo pant into slimmer legged and have the cuff zipper added by local street tailor:D

That's a cool pattern, it's really out there in a fun way! I didn't even notice the zipper cuffs! That's cool!
 

J Leather Investigater

One Too Many
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1,661
Location
Wilmington n.c.
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20210221_124932.jpg
20210221_124933.jpg
 

hesalitedome

New in Town
Messages
18
Jin,

Thanks for the detailed response. Both jackets (FW Mulholland and FL) are beautiful and fit you quite well, but I now understand how different they are (e.g., leather, construction, etc.).

Forgive me if you've explained this before (or if it's too detailed to go into here), but what base FL jacket did you start with and what were the essential elements of your configuration?

John


Hmmm I'll try to answer this as best I can but this is me just spewing whatever.
They are very different indeed actually but still jackets that will be a regular in my rotation.


1. The leather are both shinki and it's waaaaay different from one another.

the leather on the FW Mulholland feels more robust and thicker, it has a top coat finish so it's water repellent and I've no qualms taking it for travel or adverse weather, it will show brown teacore when the jacket fades, the leather is grainy off the bat. This jacket has a few other owners before it came to me but it's still not fully broken in.

The leather on the FL Frankenstein is full aniline, so there is no finish and you can see the flaws on the leather clearly (not a bad thing at all), it absorbs water so I'd be a little weary of getting rained on but that's not really a problem where I live so it's not an issue, it is also dyed all the way through so if the top grains fades/scratches away then it will still show a black core, the shinki used here is smooth so I have to wear it well and wear it hard for the grains to show. This is a new jacket so I will have to do all the breaking in.


2. The construction is very similar. They both have laser straight stitching, similar stitch count (if you are into that).

The FW has skived edges so the seams are flat, it also has a beefier main zipper but it's not the easiest to use. It also has underarm gussets that makes arm/shoulder movement very easy.

The FL doesn't have skived edges (Greg has a skiving machine so hopefully soon he will start using the same technique as well) so it's not flat where panels overlap but the stitching is still neat and straight, the main zipper is a #5 but it feels adequate for what i wear it for.


3. The sizing is off the rack vs made to order.

The FW fit is off the rack sizing so I lucked out that I found the most appropriate size for me.

The FL fit is all custom so Greg made me a mock up jacket and we were able to dial in the best possible measurement so the jacket looks good with a tshirt or sweater.


4. The feel of wearing the FW is great, it's a well built heavy horse hide jacket that is not uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time.

The FL is a custom jacket made especially for me, with designs and details I hand picked so the maker put in more effort and time to get one jacket made. So I'm more attached to it in that way.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Jin,

Thanks for the detailed response. Both jackets (FW Mulholland and FL) are beautiful and fit you quite well, but I now understand how different they are (e.g., leather, construction, etc.).

Forgive me if you've explained this before (or if it's too detailed to go into here), but what base FL jacket did you start with and what were the essential elements of your configuration?

John

No problem at all. Happy to update you. It's a frankenstein, the front of the jacket is inspired by @Marc mndt jacket and FW caboose but with different hand pocket placement that makes it easier for me to use and it has a slightly different pocket design. The back of the jacket is like a half belt, it has side adjusters but is without the false belt. There is a small kidney panel, look up the real McCoy disfarmer jacket it's almost the same. The outer sleeve design is from a 30s aviator jacket, and moto zipper sleeves since I like the forearm/wrist to be snug.

They do fit/look similarly but not really especially with the different details that come with each jacket.
 

hesalitedome

New in Town
Messages
18
^ Thanks for the details. It all works together well and the fit is spot on. I would never have known that you took features from various jacket styles and managed to integrate them so well. This is easier said than done.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,696
Location
Europe
That looks great, the No 8 is just the right size. I feel the same with the 5's it looks great but a little flimsy at times. I have a 10 on my cxl jacket that works excellent but it's a little too much

Iron Heart uses No. 10s on their Café Racer. Looks good for that particular style. I agree though, that No. 8 overall is a very good compromise. I wish more makers would offer them as an alternative to their "vintage" zippers.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
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2,696
Location
Europe
E
Pity the local Uniqlo closed where I live.

I think you will appreciate this post. FW Mulholland In Vintage Brown

This michelada is for you my friend @jeo

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Epic Jacket, nice outfit and appropriately sized drink.

Reminds me of the occasion at the "Ochsenbraterei" at V-Markt in Munich when an American lady ordered "a small beer and a glass of water." The shopowner silently handed her a "Maß" (1 liter) beer. When she enquired about the size and the whereabouts of the water he said, "That´s a small beer over here, and if you want water, the lady´s room is in the back...".

No clue why nobody likes Ze Germans...
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,318
Location
Europe
E


Epic Jacket, nice outfit and appropriately sized drink.

Reminds me of the occasion at the "Ochsenbraterei" at V-Markt in Munich when an American lady ordered "a small beer and a glass of water." The shopowner silently handed her a "Maß" (1 liter) beer. When she enquired about the size and the whereabouts of the water he said, "That´s a small beer over here, and if you want water, the lady´s room is in the back...".

No clue why nobody likes Ze Germans...

Very similar experience when I took an Austrian friend to the Oktoberfest and, to everyone's amusement, she tried to order a wine first and then a small beer lol
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,696
Location
Europe
Very similar experience when I took an Austrian friend to the Oktoberfest and, to everyone's amusement, she tried to order a wine first and then a small beer lol

Only ever beaten by the waiter in a Cologne Beer Hall, when my wife was trying to order a glass of water (she was VERY hung over from the previous night). He asked her whether she was thirsty or dirty...:)
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
^ Thanks for the details. It all works together well and the fit is spot on. I would never have known that you took features from various jacket styles and managed to integrate them so well. This is easier said than done.

You bet and I'm happy this turned out the way it did.
That is all due to Greg of Field Leathers sewing skill and pattern making ability. I'm sure it's not easy and it was time consuming, the initial mock up jacket did not fit as well as this so Greg had to make two patterns before finally getting to this fit.


Iron Heart uses No. 10s on their Café Racer. Looks good for that particular style. I agree though, that No. 8 overall is a very good compromise. I wish more makers would offer them as an alternative to their "vintage" zippers.

It sure does look great, the no 8 worked so well with your Route 66! I requested for Greg to place the no 8 paper clip pull in antique brass for my manhattan j24 project lol thanks for the inspiration!


Epic Jacket, nice outfit and appropriately sized drink.

Reminds me of the occasion at the "Ochsenbraterei" at V-Markt in Munich when an American lady ordered "a small beer and a glass of water." The shopowner silently handed her a "Maß" (1 liter) beer. When she enquired about the size and the whereabouts of the water he said, "That´s a small beer over here, and if you want water, the lady´s room is in the back...".

No clue why nobody likes Ze Germans...

I had to look that up so it's a beer tent, that looks so cool and a fun place to be at! This is the time of year when the awesome lederhosen comes out, I saw @MrProper share his deerskin one before. Man, that's so funny! A lot of places here offer beer that's placed in a small wine tasting glass lol it would take 4 or 5 orders to get the equivalent to the 1L beer hahaha
 

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