What in blue blazes is this thing?

[Topper]

Well give all an update when it arrives. Sorry chaps the nice 2nd one is mine!

As to what it is called, some call it preachers hat, some a gamblers ( 2 extremes!)

I think it is very similary to Mexican style hats, but considering it is of high quality plush, more so a spaninsh dress riding hat.

Real technical name: "Short Crowned, Flat Brimmed, Silk Topper", Popular at Lincoln's 2nd inauguration in 1865, though due to great condition guess a bit later. Not seen it yet

It can be called a Plush Boater, also, that is because Boaters are in fact classified as a "Short Crowned Topper with Flat Brimed Topper made of straw"

As to female, consideing the size, and age of hats, would guess a Man's. Buit the double grosgrin on first, may indicate use of a vail, or a long ribbon attached.


1st Is silk not beaver on due to stitching (which is silk production technique) as well as the wear pattern. Beavers are blocked from one piece hoods.
2nd is mine still awaiting to inspect, though highly suspect silk also.
3rd (Brown) is silk as well due to the wear pattern, patchiness not like a felt. The 3rd also shows a gathered lining, which would normallt implies riding hat but without examination it doesnt look right - it appears more "comfort" that saftey, so could be a ladies dress hat.


Pip pip
Doug

 

[Art Fawcett]

Thank you Topper, I stand corrected!!
information like this only comes from experience and detailed research. I now believe that my Dunlap is later than I thought and is in fact silk, not beaver. I had researched it to the best I could but you have obviously taken it further than I did. I never could find anything on the two piece top but am delighted that you did.
Hats off to you Sir!!

 

[Topper]

No worries Art,

My research in to silks has been quite extensive, have a number of historic articles in French and English and American languages, though I learn more everyday.

Dating is very hard - Toppers have been popular from late 1700'es ( actually there were worn many centuries before under a different name!) And styles when in and out of fashion,so in theory a style from 1820, could be the same style as 1860and 1890ies ! It then comes down to researching the company maker, and then the address of the company to see when they produced hats (a level i am can not yet do at home!) It can be done though have to do research in local museum to get the correct referce docs. Also in years gone past a fashion style in Paris, may take a few years to reach popularity the States, so can never be exact.

The silk over gossamer shell started from around 1830's prior to that used silk over a beaver/fur felt shell, or silk over a wicker frame. A lot of what people think are beavers are in fact silks. In US "beaver" just became a common name. In Europe quite of few people call silk hats, "Moleskin" hats, when are in fact Silk. Always confusion between a "common" name and the material it is made of.

When researching hardest part is what hats were called in previous years - e.g "boaters" were in fact merely called "straws", not generally called boaters until around early 1900ies in UK, even though worn for decades before this.

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You mention the positioning of the bow at the back, is sign of ladies - that is new to me - Thanks! Thinking about it does sound correct also!

As to the rounded tip in the 3rd hat - I think it is moreso as the dummey head 'hat stand' in the picture that is curving the tip, and in actual fact it is flat.