What Hat Are You Working On Today?

[Wednesdayschild]

I dont work on hats the way some of you do. So, I don't know if this post fits here or somewhere else, but did you ever have a hat you couldn't stop messing with? For me that is my Beaver Brand 5X. It started out very western and has morphed into something else. I have trimmed and flattened out the brim, changed the bash, changed the leather hat band to a simple ribbon, and then just today changed out the ribbon for a pug. I like what it has turned into though.
When I got it:
View attachment 496703
Now:
View attachment 496704
View attachment 496705

I like the transformation. You’ve essentially up-cycled it!

 

[StoryPNW]

I like the transformation. You’ve essentially up-cycled it!

Thank you.

 

[Wednesdayschild]

Despite the compliments I receive here in the lounge, I just don’t feel comfortable in a cattleman crease, so today I redid the crease on my western weight Hornskov

Thanks to you, I just learned that a “cattlemen’s crease” is what I’ve been steaming out of all those well made cowboy hats! Looks great, by the way.

 

[Wednesdayschild]

I don't know if this qualifies as actual hat work, but I recently purchased a liner set for my two panama hats. Thanks to @deadlyhandsome for the recommendation. Here are the finished products:

Montecristi Havana:

Stetson Aficionado:

I used Scotch Double-Sided mounting tape under the sweatband, since I am hesitant to use hot glue on a Montecristi. It holds very well, unless you need to remount it. Surprisingly, my Akubra Stylemaster liners are glued on as well. I would have thought that they sewed them in.

I like the look of these liners and bands. Can you please share the source? I often come across vintage hats who’s bands are crumbling. I could use some advice in this area.
Thank you!

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Two that I’m working on.
They’re both 40s Stetsons. A Flagship and a Turf Club. The ribbon/bow of both were faded and wouldn’t come clean as the sweat stains were intent on sticking around. The tan one was a size seven and now a 7 1/4 + with no loss of proportions and actually now a bit bigger.
The grey looking one was a size 7 1/8 and is actually a really super light blue with a hint of teal color and I happen to have vintage ribbon in the same color for a monochromatic look.
The sweats of each were in good enough condition for the stretch and this is the first time I’ve decided to try a dry stretch instead of using Lexol conditioner as an aid in making the leather more apt to give. However, I’ve found that using any type of conditioner (that I’ve tried) has adverse side effects in the end. One being, after the leather has completely dried from conditioner it seems to stiffen a bit.
Both of these old, worn, rare and desirable sweats ended up fairing really well!

Added an outside pic of the Flagship so maybe the felt color will represent closer to actual.
This hat’s direction had to be reversed since the felt was a bit thin from wear in the area where the pinch used to be. Not bad, but enough that it was better to make the switch.
Now all I have to do is the rest.
sew the now successfully stretched sweats back in and sew the binding and ribbon bow on the tan one and sew the liners back in.
That’s the part I dread as it is tedious.
To end up with an upsized fedora that loses no proportionality and integrity takes a lot of work and skill along with taking alotta time. Not something a single hatter with minimal tools can pull off and make it worth the trouble monetarily, at least, in my opinion. One must truly appreciate the outcome more than the income.
The bluish one now has a 5 5/8 crown and 2 3/4 brim.
The tan one had a 2 5/8 underwelt, but the old, weak stitching came apart while blocking. Very upsetting, at first. Happy with the outcome now, since I’m not a big fan of under/over welts. It will end up with a dressy bound 2 13/16 brim and a 5 9/16 crown.

Added shellac stiffener to both, as usual, since during cleaning and blocking the felt tends to loosen up a bit. This takes knowing correct shellac to denatured alcohol mixture and how much to spray on to end up with a fedora having the optimal amount of rigidity/pliability.

Both hat crowns will sport a top crease of my own invention, far as I know. Half diamond style and half tear drop style which offers the best look and feature of each style in one hat, but that’s just my preference.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Next phase on the Turf Club.
Included a pic showing the binding basting stitches.
Still have to sew in all the insides.
Note the bow keep styling. Probably be doing more of em like this!
I think the extra row of decorative stitching

beyond the binding is a pleasant plus.

 

[Blare]

Next phase on the Turf Club.
Included a pic showing the binding basting stitches.
Still have to sew in all the insides.
Note the bow keep styling. Probably be doing more of em like this!
I think the extra row of decorative stitching View attachment 533288 beyond the binding is a pleasant plus. View attachment 533283 View attachment 533287

Damn.. sir! Well done Randall.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Damn.. sir! Well done Randall.

Lol! Thanks, Joe!

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Took some work, but well worth it.

The finished products:

 

[Blare]

Took some work, but well worth it.

The finished products: View attachment 535210 View attachment 535211 View attachment 535213 View attachment 535212 View attachment 535214

Fantastic job, Randall.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Thanks, Joe!

Fantastic job, Randall

 

[Randall Renshaw]

50s Borsalino Nutria homburg conversion. Was a size 5 but now a comfortable 5 1/2+.
I’ve had this hat for quite a long time waiting till I found what I thought would be the perfect vintage ribbon/color to use on this hat and this brand. Used color matching thread for the 3 rows of decorative brim stitching. This fine piece will likely remain a favorite for a long while as the shape, color, proportions and brand are a personal preference.
Despite the two X designation I would suppose the nutria fur in this hat to be a near pure blend, since it feels very strong/dense and was hard to make conform to my wishes on the block, yet later hold exactly what I was after better than other felts.
As usual, indoor pics using my phone camera the hat’s colors aren’t well represented.
Maybe take some outdoor photos tomorrow for WHAYWT.

 

[Mighty44]

50s Borsalino Nutria homburg conversion. Was a size 5 but now a comfortable 5 1/2+.
I’ve had this hat for quite a long time waiting till I found what I thought would be the perfect vintage ribbon/color to use on this hat and this brand. Used color matching thread for the 3 rows of decorative brim stitching. This fine piece will likely remain a favorite for a long while as the shape, color, proportions and brand are a personal preference.
Despite the two X designation I would suppose the nutria fur in this hat to be a near pure blend, since it feels very strong/dense and was hard to make conform to my wishes on the block, yet later hold exactly what I was after better than other felts.
As usual, indoor pics using my phone camera the hat’s colors aren’t well represented.
Maybe take some outdoor photos tomorrow for WHAYWT.
View attachment 536487 View attachment 536486 View attachment 536485

That’s a beauty—I love the triple row stitching on the brim.

 

[Blare]

50s Borsalino Nutria homburg conversion. Was a size 5 but now a comfortable 5 1/2+.
I’ve had this hat for quite a long time waiting till I found what I thought would be the perfect vintage ribbon/color to use on this hat and this brand. Used color matching thread for the 3 rows of decorative brim stitching. This fine piece will likely remain a favorite for a long while as the shape, color, proportions and brand are a personal preference.
Despite the two X designation I would suppose the nutria fur in this hat to be a near pure blend, since it feels very strong/dense and was hard to make conform to my wishes on the block, yet later hold exactly what I was after better than other felts.
As usual, indoor pics using my phone camera the hat’s colors aren’t well represented.
Maybe take some outdoor photos tomorrow for WHAYWT.
View attachment 536487 View attachment 536486 View attachment 536485

Wonderful again Randall

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Old, worn out 40/early 50s Open Road RDL restoration.
Took the ribbon and bow from a different, no name, old worn out fedora and put it on this hat, since new ribbon wouldn’t have looked right on felt still showing this much patina. Looks right at home on this western that was heavily shrunken 7 1/4, now 7 1/4 plus OR.
After the reblock it needed wider ribbon to cover up sins that 3/8 ribbon wouldn’t.
Before and after pics show this do over was a serious case of hat use/abuse.

I might sew on a distressed civil war type corded band with acorns later, since I think it would look right at home, too.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

50s Borsalino Nutria homburg conversion. Was a size 5 but now a comfortable 5 1/2+.
I’ve had this hat for quite a long time waiting till I found what I thought would be the perfect vintage ribbon/color to use on this hat and this brand. Used color matching thread for the 3 rows of decorative brim stitching. This fine piece will likely remain a favorite for a long while as the shape, color, proportions and brand are a personal preference.
Despite the two X designation I would suppose the nutria fur in this hat to be a near pure blend, since it feels very strong/dense and was hard to make conform to my wishes on the block, yet later hold exactly what I was after better than other felts.
As usual, indoor pics using my phone camera the hat’s colors aren’t well represented.
Maybe take some outdoor photos tomorrow for WHAYWT.
View attachment 536487 View attachment 536486 View attachment 536485

Looks great! You have a real skill…and I suspect a bit of magic too.

I don’t think the “X” count means anything. I think Borsalino randomly through them on for the American market.

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Looks great! You have a real skill…and I suspect a bit of magic too.

I don’t think the “X” count means anything. I think Borsalino randomly through them on for the American market.

Thanks, Brent!
Probably so, since I have a Borsa 6X also from the 50s that I’d suspect to have a high content of rabbit fur.

 

[bowlerman]

Glad to discover this thread! I mess with hats all the time, without knowing what I’m doing. I’m hoping to change the latter part.

 

[steur]

Old, worn out 40/early 50s Open Road RDL restoration.
Took the ribbon and bow from a different, no name, old worn out fedora and put it on this hat, since new ribbon wouldn’t have looked right on felt still showing this much patina. Looks right at home on this western that was heavily shrunken 7 1/4, now 7 1/4 plus OR.
After the reblock it needed wider ribbon to cover up sins that 3/8 ribbon wouldn’t.
Before and after pics show this do over was a serious case of hat use/abuse.

I might sew on a distressed civil war type corded band with acorns later, since I think it would look right at home, too. View attachment 538196 View attachment 538195 View attachment 538197 View attachment 538198

Fabulous work, Randall. That hat has been brought back from the brink of oblivion!

 

[Randall Renshaw]

Fabulous work, Randall. That hat has been brought back from the brink of oblivion!

Thanks, Stefan! It was in terrible shape!
But between gas and water she came out okay.