What do you guys use or recommend to apply Pecard's leather dressing...

[johnnyjohnny]

an oLd wive told me...

actually, it was on several of the 'how to take care of leather' websites, that admittedly share a lot of the same info, repeating it...but the statement was that petroleum products will, over time, begin to have a deteriorating effect on leather, breaking down the fibers...whereas natural conditioners, such as lanolin, will not do this

whether that's true or not, one must ask an old wife

 

[OneEyeMan]

I don't know what all the fuss is about.
I've been using http://www.obenaufs.com/lp.php?osCsid=ca78764935d2b059aa7dfceba55f2614 Obenauf's for years on all my leather stuff (shoes, jackets, bags) and it works nicely. No petroleum products in it either. Warm up the leather slightly with a hair dryer while working the stuff in with your fingers.
Apply as much as the leather can take.
When it stops sinking in, stop applying it.
Let it dry, wipe off the excess.
It's not rocket science guys!
Lenny

 

[Castor Dioscuri]

actually, it was on several of the 'how to take care of leather' websites, that admittedly share a lot of the same info, repeating it...but the statement was that petroleum products will, over time, begin to have a deteriorating effect on leather, breaking down the fibers...whereas natural conditioners, such as lanolin, will not do this

whether that's true or not, one must ask an old wife

Johnnyjohnny, I'm really curious about your thoughts on Obenaufs. I've been using Pecards for the last three years on my jackets, but lately I've wanted to apply some conditioner to a leather sofa that I consider a sort of family heirloom. As such, I've become paranoid and wanted to do as much research as I could on Pecard to make sure it was the right choice... I didn't want to be the one that destroyed the sofa.

Your post in this thread led me down my research path, and after reading what you said, I did as much research as I could about petroleum and leather. Petroleum, being a key ingredient in Pecard, turned out to be a double edged sword. From my research, I discovered that while it softens leather, Petroleum does so by breaking down the leather fibers... Obviously not something I want happen to an antique sofa.

I did send Pecard an email to ask them what their thoughts were on this, but never got a response.

So I'm leaning towards Obenaufs, which seems to have much of the same ingredients, with the exception of petroleum. However, I'm still not sure about Obenaufs, except for a few biased reviews (like the ones for Pecards), but nothing really conclusive.

As you were the one that began these questions for me, Johnnyjohnny, I thought you'd be the best person to ask!

 

[Edward]

I've just ordered my first tub of Pecards - I have a well-broken in ELC A2 and a motorcycle jacket that are a touch dry on and a bit scratched. Does Pecards restore colour, or will I need to look at a colouring agent of some sort for these jackets after Pecards? Another thing... how often do you folks reapply? The site I'm buying from suggests every 4-8 months, depending on climate, but that seems a bit much to me (they are trying to sell me more of the stuff, I think...)?

 

[Deleted member 16736]

Obenaufs won a scientific study conducted by the University of Cincinnati, and out of all conditioners tested, they came out on top in 8 of 9 categories. Don't know if Pecards was one of the others tested, but I'd be surprised if it wasn't. You can read about it here:

https://www.obenaufs.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8

Obenaufs sells conditioner specific to furniture.

https://www.obenaufs.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=32

 

[ButteMT61]

I've just ordered my first tub of Pecards - I have a well-broken in ELC A2 and a motorcycle jacket that are a touch dry on and a bit scratched. Does Pecards restore colour, or will I need to look at a colouring agent of some sort for these jackets after Pecards? Another thing... how often do you folks reapply? The site I'm buying from suggests every 4-8 months, depending on climate, but that seems a bit much to me (they are trying to sell me more of the stuff, I think...)?

Pecards make many different treatments. But, generally speaking, treatments won't restore color - but it will most likely darken what you put it on, at least temporarily.Don't go crazy. I use my bare hands to put it on after I let the tub sit in the sun to warm it up (you could put in a pot of hot water if you get no sun lol ) Do one coat and (after you test it somewhere) let it sit a day. IF it looks like it needs more, go for it. Just don't soak the leather down with too much treatment. It will be regretted later. You don't want it to weigh 2x what it does now, and you don't want it to be greasy after it soaks in.Once done, depending on the hide, you can buff with an old sock or T-shirt.

 

[gtdean48]

I've used Leather-Mate/Urad Black to good results on black boots.
Need to use gloves to apply because it did stain my fingers.
http://www.urad.com/DetailsListEng.cfm?ID=1
http://www.urad.com/support/FAQleathermate.cfm

 

[rocketeer]

Another Pecards thread eh haha. Never used it myself but on my WWII era A2(Lucy 7 Seven) I have used Ko Cho Line for 30 years, but we digress.
I imagine it's a similar product and to apply I just have a rough weave rag that I have been using the same 30 years and just rub the jacket all over. Dont douse the jacket in the stuff or it will remain 'greasy' for a long time. I would think no more[amount] than you would use if applying shoe polish to a pair of boots, or even shoes.
One make I have always steered clear of is Connelly Hide Food, a cream coloured waxy conditioner for car seats etc. i rubbed that one on a jacket once and after a couple of days it left a white residue behind, maybe I used a little too much but I would not use it again. Not on a jacket anyway.
Johnny Tee

 

[Deleted member 16736]

I second Butte's suggestion to use your bare fingers. Not only does it work easier/faster than a cloth, but the heat from your fingers helps melt the wax and apply more evenly. Also, it doesn't cause dye transfer onto your fingers the way it can with a cloth.

 

[rocketeer]

I second Butte's suggestion to use your bare fingers. Not only does it work easier/faster than a cloth, but the heat from your fingers helps melt the wax and apply more evenly. Also, it doesn't cause dye transfer onto your fingers the way it can with a cloth.

As I pointed out I have been doing it for 30 years, with no ill effects or dye transfer from or too the rag. What colour is Pecards conditioner anyway.
Another question or two, 1/ how long have Pecards been in buisness selling saddlery products(well it comes under that type of thing doesnt it)? 2/ has anyone else been conditioning jackets around as long as I have and what products do they use?
J

PS. Not trying to be self gratifying with the above, just would like to compare methods so others may gain from our experiences

 

[ButteMT61]

As I pointed out I have been doing it for 30 years, with no ill effects or dye transfer from or too the rag. What colour is Pecards conditioner anyway.Another question or two, 1/ how long have Pecards been in buisness selling saddlery products(well it comes under that type of thing doesnt it)? 2/ has anyone else been conditioning jackets around as long as I have and what products do they use?JPS. Not trying to be self gratifying with the above, just would like to compare methods so others may gain from our experiences

Seriously? Every time someone mentions Pecards, you feel the need to post this holier than thou retort. Enough already. Use what you like, but quit challenging others if you don't mind? It gets old...

 

[rocketeer]

I doubt I will change anyones mind about the product they use, I just think there are just as good products as Pecards and a lot cheaper as well. I have not seen Pecards in my local saddlery shop, but at air shows and places where they sell that sort of thing such as aviation magazines, a small tin(6oz?) retails a touch below £10 + postage, where as the product I use retails about £6 for slightly larger tin off the shelf.
It seems as soon as someone posts about conditioning leather, Pecards name pops up and like other posters I like to let people know there are other products out there just as good and cheaper.
Maybe reading through it does sound a bit 'I've had my jacket longer than you' type of thing but was not meant like that. There a people out there who have been collecting much longer than me, though I dont know any collectors personally anymore as I no longer collect them myself, and would like to know what they have been using.

Done a bit of research: Pecards have been in business since 1902.
Why do some leather companies sell these products(all manufacturers) to use on new jackets when it is really meant for the older stuff? Very prevalent at airshows over here.
Thats all from me, J.

 

[Capesofwrath]

Since you mention Hide Food I've been using that for a very long time. I started when I had Jaguars and did the seats every couple of months or so. Connolly's have gone the way of all flesh now but another company still makes Hide Food to the same formula.

They were famous for supplying the leather for Roll Royce car seats and used to have a depot near the West End where they Connollised older RR seats to bring them back to as new. I use it on my jackets too and it is good stuff. It doesn't waterproof but it softens and conditions. The secret is to be sparing otherwise you will get a white residue in the stitching which has to be brushed out when dry. It tells you to use only a small amount on the label.

 

[ButteMT61]

There's no problem talking about other products - that's good for everyone. I have no allegiance to Pecards other than I use it and it works. Same for Sno*Seal on my hiking boots. It's the (interpreted) condescending replies you always post in retort to a Pecards post. People have used lots of crap for 100+ years that isn't good for leather and still is sold today. See this page for items that people use that ruin leather, but still get recommended.

http://www.huntingnet.com/articles/article_detail.aspx?articles_id=560

How long someone has been around isn't necessarily a measure of it being the right thing to use/do. I have been treating leather boots and gear for 40 years - my Dad was a geologist and we spent most of our days in the wilderness and it was important to learn the tricks. I don't spout my 40 years of experience to argue with someone over a product that is good, approved by many makers, and works.

Most people - even me - have used conditioners on new leather. For me, that was a carryover from my boot/gear days and it turns out to be not the best thing for new jackets. Why do they sell it? Because people buy it

 

[P5640blouson]

lanolin based Lexol cleaner is best as it won't change the complexion of the leather surface, is pH neutral. Problem is that you should clean and apply often as it evaporates quicker than leather dressings. for more lasting effect but complexion change, Lexol conditioner for heavy analine/semi pigmented hides, 303 for fully pigment finish hides, or mix 303 in the lexol for semi analine hides to enable UV protection. Leather Therapy is amazing at softening leather and preventing permanent rotting mold/mildew for those in damp climates, but it costs a little more as well and soften more than you like, for those who live for fighting their stiff jackets. Or do nothing and have your's looking like "beaten by California sun" as I've read somewhere.

 

[frussell]

One trick I've always used, whether with Pecard's or R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing (my personal favorite, seems to last a little longer) is to try to warm up the leather rather than the dressing. I live where there's lots of sun, so it's easier for me than some. I leave the boots or saddle or jacket out in the sun for long enough for it to get warm, then apply with a clean sock, turned inside out so the nappy side is outside. I don't leave it out in the sun with the dressing on for too long, as that will cause over-penetration. Usually I will let the item soak it up in the shade, then wipe off the excess, especiallly around the threads. Works like a charm. I like Pecards, but for saddles and boots and tack, it seems to need re-treatment more often than the Williams, and in my opinion, is less useful for waterproofing. Frank

 

[ButteMT61]

One trick I've always used, whether with Pecard's or R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing (my personal favorite, seems to last a little longer) is to try to warm up the leather rather than the dressing. I live where there's lots of sun, so it's easier for me than some. I leave the boots or saddle or jacket out in the sun for long enough for it to get warm, then apply with a clean sock, turned inside out so the nappy side is outside. I don't leave it out in the sun with the dressing on for too long, as that will cause over-penetration. Usually I will let the item soak it up in the shade, then wipe off the excess, especiallly around the threads. Works like a charm. I like Pecards, but for saddles and boots and tack, it seems to need re-treatment more often than the Williams, and in my opinion, is less useful for waterproofing. Frank

Always! But I warm the leather and the treatments too. Works great, but you can overtreat it as it soaks up much more quickly!

 

[frussell]

Absolutely, Scott. If I'm not worried about wipe marks or darkening the leather, like on a saddle, I do heat up the conditioner as well. My only issue with that has been that if I'm not quick enough, the warm conditioner penetrates one area before I get to the adjoining piece of leather, and sometimes makes a watermark-like overlap, which almost always fades with a little time. Sometimes heating up a treatment without stirring it back up will separate its oily components from the heavier ones, and the oil will sink in as fast as you wipe it on, literally leaving brush mark-like stripes. This is easily avoided with most good conditioners by warming it up, and then giving it a good stir to get it all rolled back together before applying. Frank.