Mathematicus
A-List Customer
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- 379
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- Coventry, UK
I have probably typed up too quickly and my message ended looking like a royal proclamation or kind of that! I must add that those are my opinions and have their relative weigth as anyone else's opinions.
That said, let me zoom in better in my comment. If you note, I didn't say that the suit was big on him or that it was complimenting his body frame - in fact, it is not doing that even a minimal bit. The suit is actually swallowing him down, but I believe the cut, at least, is correct.
As you interpret correctly, his shoulder are at least 1.5 inches narrower than the jacket shoulders, and this is proved by the presence of that divot/notching above the lapel. In the aestethics of the era, this behaviour contributes to the overall effect of chest "bulging" towards the front. You may object that it is unsightly, but that was the look.
The reason I said the cut was well executed are indeed the straight line of the shoulders (very difficult to prevent the shoulders from sagging down and looked awfully roundish, especially if the wearer has slight bones), the fit of the collar (with so much excess cloth it would have been almost natural to cut an disproportionately wide neckline, which would stand miles away his neck) and the clean, precise roll of the lapels, which are not rumpled, nor bent, nor sagging, but look like the inside edge sticks to the actual wearer at every stage. This wicks away the feeling that the jacket is oversized: there is no visible gap between the body and the garment.
The sleeve is outrageously wrinkled and wide - indeed it is the style but it is also an element of balance. With such drape, cutting a cleaner and narrower sleeve would have looked clownish - like he had skinny arms in a giant body.
On a closing note, there is no winner in such a discussion. We just share different viewpoints!
That said, let me zoom in better in my comment. If you note, I didn't say that the suit was big on him or that it was complimenting his body frame - in fact, it is not doing that even a minimal bit. The suit is actually swallowing him down, but I believe the cut, at least, is correct.
As you interpret correctly, his shoulder are at least 1.5 inches narrower than the jacket shoulders, and this is proved by the presence of that divot/notching above the lapel. In the aestethics of the era, this behaviour contributes to the overall effect of chest "bulging" towards the front. You may object that it is unsightly, but that was the look.
The reason I said the cut was well executed are indeed the straight line of the shoulders (very difficult to prevent the shoulders from sagging down and looked awfully roundish, especially if the wearer has slight bones), the fit of the collar (with so much excess cloth it would have been almost natural to cut an disproportionately wide neckline, which would stand miles away his neck) and the clean, precise roll of the lapels, which are not rumpled, nor bent, nor sagging, but look like the inside edge sticks to the actual wearer at every stage. This wicks away the feeling that the jacket is oversized: there is no visible gap between the body and the garment.
The sleeve is outrageously wrinkled and wide - indeed it is the style but it is also an element of balance. With such drape, cutting a cleaner and narrower sleeve would have looked clownish - like he had skinny arms in a giant body.
On a closing note, there is no winner in such a discussion. We just share different viewpoints!