What’s your favorite leather for a jacket?

[Pandemic]

All this talk about vegtan vs chrome in the rain made me wonder - would a Pecards treatment make vegtan leather more water-resistant? Not that it matters much, but the stuff is advertised as waterproofing treatment, and consists mostly of paraffin wax, which is hydrophobic. FWIW, I recently bought a low quality anilin dyed belt blank and treated part of it with Pecards, heavily. I mean three thick applications, each hit with a heat gun. The leather, although brand new, drank it all up. When I left the blank in the rain (accidentally), the part treated with Pecards had droplets and puddles on it, while the untreated part was uniformly wet.

If I were trying to waterproof a leather jacket, I think I would either use Obernauf’s LP (the beeswax does an amazing job waterproofing boots, though it can be a bit greasy when first applied) or a Barbour type wax which is designed to really soak into fabric when warm and then set at normal temps.

 

[handymike]

I think once treated, veg-tan leather can be much more water-resistant. I assume Obenaufs would do the trick.

 

[JMax]

@Will Zach I think the issue becomes that with more use the jacket needs more applications of Pecards or whatever to remain water resistant. That’s been my experience with the boots I often wear. But yeah, it should help a bit for a bit, depending on usage. I’d probably just buy a jacket that is resistant out of the box for outdoor activity. Save the veg tanned for the trap door spider pick-up routine at the local pub.

 

[Will Zach]

Yeah, I think the reason LW HH jackets are so water resistant is three-fold (in no particular order): chrome tanning, water-resistant topcoat, and thick hide.

Add those three together and you get a great jacket for inclement weather. If I were riding, I'd get LW.

 

[JMax]

Yeah, I think the reason LW HH jackets are so water resistant is three-fold (in no particular order): chrome tanning, water-resistant topcoat, and thick hide.

Add those three together and you get a great jacket for inclement weather. If I were riding, I'd get LW.

IMO the best hide for inclement weather. I’ve been caught in crazy storms while on the bike. The kind of storms where my jeans are drenched in seconds and my knuckles are white because I can’t see further out than 10 feet while booking down the freeway. Lol. The LWs keep my upper body pretty dry.

 

[red devil]

Yeah for the rain, most of the time it is LW. I still remember when I took off my Suburban after a three hour ride in heavy rain, same as @JMax mentionned, my jeans were drenched in a matter of minutes at most... and my upper body was completely dry.

I have yet to test my chrome tanned JL riding jacket in the rain to see how it behaves.

@Pandemic , a few years ago kangaroo was still the preferred material for abrasion resistance. Not sure what the situation is now. Probably still is because moto GP racers still wear leathers? And le'ts not forget heat resistance.

Otherwise, what is my preferred leather? Bark tanned deerskin just because

 

[trainspotter]

My favourite leather is Horween CXL FQHH hands down, haven’t experienced shinki yet

Aero has relatively lighter weight CXL FQHH available on request, and that takes care of the weight factor for me, not that I ever found it to be too heavy in a jacket

 

[Superfluous]

Really interesting and candid discussion regarding how we employ our leather jackets!!! I fall squarely in the purely aesthetic / no rain camp. I purchase and wear leather jackets solely because I love the aesthetic. As someone else aptly described, leather jackets are "night-out" garments for me, mixed in with an occasional day-time wear (although in my oceanfront t-shirt and shorts community, day-time leather jacket wear is something of an anomaly). I never, ever wear my leather jackets in the rain. The notion is entirely discordant to me. Likewise, I have not owned a motorcycle for over 35 years and I am not exposed to the elements while commuting. Beyond comfort, functionality is entirely irrelevant to me in relationship to leather jackets. I do not care about water resistance, nor accident protection. I only care how the jacket fits, drapes, wears, and looks, along with the quality of construction.

The foregoing is plainly a product of my local climate. As @handymike observed, it only rains a handful of days here in Southern California, so electing not to wear leather jackets on the infrequent rainy days is inconsequential. If I lived in a region where it rained over half the days, as described by @Carlos840 , I would have a very different perspective. Likewise, if I frequently rode a motorcycle -- e.g., @JMax -- I would have a different perspective. As is often the case, our individual modus operandi is greatly impacted by regional climate considerations.

Here in Southern California, the following is an accurate description of our defining climate attribute (which is largely responsible for the popularity of the region):

 

[JMax]

Really interesting and candid discussion regarding how we employ our leather jackets!!! I fall squarely in the purely aesthetic / no rain camp. I purchase and wear leather jackets solely because I love the aesthetic. As someone else aptly described, leather jackets are "night-out" garments for me, mixed in with an occasional day-time wear (although in my oceanfront t-shirt and shorts community, day-time leather jacket wear is something of an anomaly). I never, ever wear my leather jackets in the rain. The notion is entirely discordant to me. Likewise, I have not owned a motorcycle for over 35 years and I am not exposed to the elements while commuting. Beyond comfort, functionality is entirely irrelevant to me in relationship to leather jackets. I do not care about water resistance, nor accident protection. I only care how the jacket fits, drapes, wears, and looks, along with the quality of construction.

The foregoing is plainly a product of my local climate. As @handymike observed, it only rains a handful of days here in Southern California, so electing not to wear leather jackets on the infrequent rainy days is inconsequential. If I lived in a region where it rained over half the days, as described by @Carlos840 , I would have a very different perspective. Likewise, if I frequently rode a motorcycle -- e.g., @JMax -- I would have a different perspective. As is often the case, our individual modus operandi is greatly impacted by regional climate considerations.

Here in Southern California, the following is an accurate description of our defining climate attribute (which is largely responsible for the popularity of the region):

100 percent. Lifestyle and where you lay your head at night is such a big part of it. The past ten years I’ve lived in warmer climates. Before that I was in CO, DC, whatever, where jackets are necessary. If I didn’t ride, I’d have close to zero leather jackets at this point. Honestly, I want to move a bit further north so I can sport more jackets when not on a bike. One day. It would make it easier to explain the jackets in the closet.

 

[Superfluous]

Honestly, I want to move a bit further north so I can sport more jackets when not on a bike. One day. It would make it easier to explain the jackets in the closet.

So true. I much prefer cooler weather clothing and my wardrobe reflects this preference. I have often thought that I would be happier -- at least from a clothing perspective -- if I lived in a cooler climate that was more conducive to my wardrobe preferences. Then, I take my dogs for a walk along the beach on any evening, Summer or Winter, and I immediately remember why I love where I currently live, notwithstanding the substantially fewer leather-jacket days.

 

[JMax]

So true. I much prefer cooler weather clothing and my wardrobe reflects this preference. I have often thought that I would be happier -- at least from a clothing perspective -- if I lived in a cooler climate that was more conducive to my wardrobe preferences. Then, I take my dogs for a walk along the beach on any evening, Summer or Winter, and I immediately remember why I love where I currently live, notwithstanding the substantially fewer leather-jacket days.

Absolutely. Walks on the beach have a way of shifting perspective. The only thing I miss about south Florida. The absolute only thing. Cooler weather attire just looks better than shorts, flip flops and a guayabera, right @jonesy86 lol.

 

[Superfluous]

Absolutely. Walks on the beach have a way of shifting perspective. The only thing I miss about south Florida. The absolute only thing. Cooler weather attire just looks better than shorts, flip flops and a guayabera, right @jonesy86 lol.

Absolutely, although I was never a flip-flop guy and I still dig guayaberas.

 

[navetsea]

there are products to waterproof leather. google Leather Final Coat or Leather Finish
some are semi permanent (waxy stuff) you probably need to reapply annually and some more permanent (varnish/ plastic) but applying this will make the jacket breathe less too, and not so eagerly to patina.

if you don't plan to wear the jacket for daily use or never to wear it to ride in rain , and hope for the leather to patina well, it is better to just leave your vegtan alone, just oil it a little. maybe lightly applying the waxy kind like beeswax etc.

I can testify using leather oil like Obenauf's Leather Oil, change the feel of my straight vegtan cowhide feel, where before it felt like thick paper (cardboard) after 3 applications now it felt moist and feel closer to carpet or dense blanket. and I do like how Obenauf smell, only very faintly, but fresh like honey or freshly cut apple or something like that.

I have yet to use the LP variant

 

[Fireflame]

For modern heavyweight leathers:
Vanson comp weight (yeah even the new stuff), CXL (FQ or cow), LW’s 4oz plus HH. Of the three, CXL is the prettiest. LW and Vanson are sledgehammers. Neither one is all that nice to look at but they are tough as nails. CXL is simultaneously very tough, and very fragile.

Modern lightweight: 5 Star goat, ELMC HH, Vic

Vintage: Monarch HH (this is the nicest leather I’ve ever worn, no debate) Cali sports cow (god tier patina), Wards/Windward/Sears/Herc HH. Never had vintage goat, would like to.

great choices you mentioned. I’ve never had a jacket in CXL. I do have experience with it in boots so I can see how they might work on a jacket even though the evo of the leather will be completely different.
Monarch HH is always a good option for me, just have to be lucky to find one my size and style. I’m always looking so it’s a possibility .

+1 for Vanson comp weight.

For easier wearing, Vicenza HH, but Vanson comp weight is easy too, once broken in.

Great to see another one for Vanson comp.

 

[Fireflame]

I’m intrigued by the Badalassi hides. They are steerhide or cowhide, but the colors are fantastic and they change as the leather ages- gorgeous stuff!
Another beautiful hide was Aero’s Connolly steer- they don’t use it anymore, but it can be found. I prefer steerhide to horsehide, but my new to me Rutland sheep is really nice too, a welcome addition to my other more rigid jackets.

So glad you mentioned this one. Badalassi is one of those leather I’ve admired via pictures but never experienced it. The leather looks great and amazing color. Would definitely be something I would like to try out.

 

[Fireflame]

This depends on your personal preferences. Some of us do like heavy CXFQHH /CXSH other do like light/mid-weigth sheepskin, Vicenza HH, Shinki HH, Badalassi cowhide, goatskin, etc.etc. If I was you I would visit several stores to get a feeling which one you like best as some leathers do look good but are difficult to break-in like LW or heavy Horween hides. My favorite leather types are Bill Kelsos Victory HH, Badalassi cowhide and Shinki but the jacket I wear most is the Vicenza Aero Wayfarer as the leather is easy to wear even if Vicenza is positioned on the last rank of my leather jackets...I know it sounds strange but the feel /touch, smell, etc. of the leather does not really meet my personal preferences but easy to wear as no break-in is needed.

Through out the years I have tried finding local leather shops but there are very few where I live. I have mostly relied on finding/buying leather jackets online.
great to hear your Vicenza Aero is your go-to. Im all for rooting for the underdog in your favorite leather list.

 

[Fireflame]

I think a midweight Italian horsehide like the one used by Eastman (I believe this hide is from the Victoria tannery) would be perfect for a trim half belt. This leather has a firm hand to it but drapes well and is easy to wear.

Good suggestion! I have considered Eastman for a halfbelt, They do make a really nice one. Measurements for my size don’t really work so that the only reason I haven’t tried one out yet. If size was right I would have got this one a long time ago

 

[Fireflame]

Personally i am a bit over Shinki.
They do nice leather, but they also do average one. Now that i have handled as many jackets as i have, i see Shinki isn't nicer than any other good quality leather.
My main problem with it is the fact that it isn't waterproof, I don't really get the point in wearing a leather jacket that won't keep me dry, it seems silly to me.
To me Shinki made jackets (and veg tan made jackets in general) are more about style than they are funscionality, and because of that i end up wearing them less than others.

When i think of jackets that are functional, that will keep me dry and that will save my skin if i dump my bike, my top three are:

LW 4oz HH:

Kokkolan 5oz Moose hide:

And Vanson Comp Weight:

Great point on Shinki HH. I have heard about them not doing so well in the rain. Luckily I haven’t got caught out in the rain with my jacket but I would hate to find out. With that said, that one of the reason I started this post, would like to see what some of the leather you guys like. I’m all for trying out new stuff so all this helps.
Now, that moose jacket of yours is AMAZING!!! I’ve seen moose before and always admired it’s smooth pebbly look. Ideally this leather would be my next choice for a jacket but very hard to find.

 

[Canuck Panda]

There is nothing like the Chromexcel Horsehide. No equivalent. No Substitutes. Every other type of leather would have a similar substitute from different tanneries. But not the Chromexcel Horse. It has many faults but it is the only truly unique one.

 

[Fireflame]

I like them SOFT (like chamois). I like them THICK (4.5oz plus). I like them UNUSUAL (scars and brands and color of the rainbow). Open to any place of origin/tannery, or any type of animal.

Animals ranging in sizes:
View attachment 371716
Most of what the consumers knows comes from what jacket maker tells us. But there are many other tanneries other than Shinki / Horween / Badalassi.
Most of the US and Italian tanneries are century old businesses, and most of them are still kicking it old school, that means land line phones, fax, and what's email? Do you mean AOL?
There are surprisingly large numbers of century old businesses in the tanning industry (compared to other manufacturing industries), yet no songs or books written about their history. Sigh.

100% correct on this point. Way to many leathers from many different tanneries to even keep count of. All leathers have something great and special about them, so I’m with you on that.