Wearing Vintage Shoes

[MondoFW]

old shoes could fall apart if you tried wearing them, the stitching breaks down the soles come apart, too old dry and stiff

How much experience have you had wearing vintage shoes? if any, was there any positive aspects of it?

This is more or less off topic, but a neighbor of mine, a former serviceman that avidly collects WW2 militaria, claimed that pretty much all clothing from this period is impractical and susceptible to falling apart if worn, unless it was only worn for special occasions. This was brought up when I asked him about WW2 leather jackets, which, according to him, are an even bigger no-no when it comes to usability. As an owner of several 1930's-50's articles of clothing that I've gotten a lot of use of, I beg to differ on some of his points.

 

[green papaya]

Ive worn old military combat boots, and they lose the "flexibility" the leather has a tendency to crack when it's old and dry, also because of dry rot, it's not made to last forever

I also had some shoes made within the last 30 years that fell apart, the stitching broke and soles fell off

rubber soles break down with age and they dont hold up , even if you dont wear them, the rubber breaks down just from age.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Definitely, not all experiences are negative. Definately they are not all positive. (I have had a pair of shoes purchased not be able to be rescued to wearable condition and a pair that really are very delicate and rarely get worn.)

On the other hand, I have a pair of circa WWII gunboats that get worn several times a month the past several years that are holding up well and will definately outlive me in utility.

John McHale (possibly Canada's finest shoemaker) 1940's Captoe Derby Gunboats made of Horween leather pictured above. Vintage Shoe Addict assisted with the shoes moving to my shoe rack - eternal thanks!

Not all vintage shoes are alike. Some can be worn gently. Broad statements I do not believe are helpful to the nuanced question of the OP.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Wear Vintage Shoes Update: I picked up a pair of shoes from the cobbler this morning. Sole protectors, heels, insole, heel protectors, new laces, shoe trees and Saphir cream were needed. Shoes ready for a special occasion.

I will have to make an occasion. These vintage shoes are definately wearable. I will be respectfull of their 100 year age, but I will wear them. I am happy to assume the risk.

BTW: Errand shoes were modern Alden Gunboats.

Best, Eric -

 

[belfastboy]

You can wear vintage, get a few nice pairs and rotate wearing them. When you first obtain the shoes, do a few things to them right off before you start wearing them.

Clean the inside of the shoes with a spray disinfectant, or use a wash clothe with a very light amount of water and rubbing alcohol (basically just damp) and then use some saddle soap on any leather (not on any suede) when dry then soak them up for a few days with some very good leather conditioner...something thin works best so it can soak into the leather. Let the leather have a good chance to soak in the conditioner to rejuvenate it and it will add life to the shoes. Let the shoes sit and dry after soaking a few days then buff them off and apply some cream shoe polish, buff that and then a wax for shine. Use the conditioner on the inside of the shoes also...they need it as the inside of the shoe will help absorb the conditioner into the leather. I do this all to even new shoes....conditioner is very worth while to do on leather boots and shoes. Also always use shoe trees on your shoes. Taking care of your vintage shoes will make them last a very long time. Both myself and my husband have shoes from the late 1930's and they look fairly new and I have one pair of shoes (high fashion lace ups) from 1918.

I fully concur with ALL the above
At the risk of blasphemy I also add a Topy to the leather sole. It is a thin rubber like sole glued over top. It protects the leather sole especially in wet climates . It has a minimal thickness so does not alter the shoes profile and goes a long way in lengthening the life on any shoe....about $40

 

[MondoFW]

I was never really a fan of spectators that were black/brown and gray,because they contradict the personality of traditional spectators to me. Nonetheless they look very sharp!

 

[Wesslyn]

I've got a pair of Florsheim Imperials that not only have stood the test of time, but show absolutely no sign of dying any time soon.
I think a good pair of shoes will last you, after all, old shoes were made to last.
But having said that, I feel your pain. I'm cautious with old suits, hats, even ties.
I think a healthy collection of new and old works best. I've got Rockport shoes for days it's snowy or rainy, and my Florsheims for nicer weather and more special occasions.
Nonetheless, if the shoes were well made, you shouldn't worry TOO much. And if they weren't well made, thennn... you also shouldn't worry too much.

 

[MondoFW]

I've got a pair of Florsheim Imperials that not only have stood the test of time, but show absolutely no sign of dying any time soon.
I think a good pair of shoes will last you, after all, old shoes were made to last.
But having said that, I feel your pain. I'm cautious with old suits, hats, even ties.
I think a healthy collection of new and old works best. I've got Rockport shoes for days it's snowy or rainy, and my Florsheims for nicer weather and more special occasions.
Nonetheless, if the shoes were well made, you shouldn't worry TOO much. And if they weren't well made, thennn... you also shouldn't worry too much.

I have to be particular about suits for obvious reasons. There's a member on here named Rabbit, whom I'm not sure is still active, but his style was awesome and his clothes fit as if they were bespoke. Pretty much all of his suits were true vintage. An inspiring figure for sure

I just wish i had his luck

 

[Wesslyn]

I have to be particular about suits for obvious reasons. There's a member on here named Rabbit, whom I'm not sure is still active, but his style was awesome and his clothes fit as if they were bespoke. Pretty much all of his suits were true vintage. An inspiring figure for sure

I just wish i had his luck

I know exactly who you're talking about. I've referred to his past posts for ideas many times.

 

[LuvMyMan]

Wear Vintage Shoes Update: I picked up a pair of shoes from the cobbler this morning. Sole protectors, heels, insole, heel protectors, new laces, shoe trees and Saphir cream were needed. Shoes ready for a special occasion.

I will have to make an occasion. These vintage shoes are definately wearable. I will be respectfull of their 100 year age, but I will wear them. I am happy to assume the risk.

BTW: Errand shoes were modern Alden Gunboats.

Best, Eric -

One word can sum up those shoes....SNAZZY!

 

[LuvMyMan]

Ive worn old military combat boots, and they lose the "flexibility" the leather has a tendency to crack when it's old and dry, also because of dry rot, it's not made to last forever

I also had some shoes made within the last 30 years that fell apart, the stitching broke and soles fell off

rubber soles break down with age and they dont hold up , even if you dont wear them, the rubber breaks down just from age.

Here is the reality of anything vintage...how was it stored over time? Leather can indeed, dry out. A proper test of leather is easy...the surface of the leather...if it is very cracked and flaking off...well you have a problem that conditioner most likely is not gonna fix, plan and simple. Old leather that is hard and stiff if not worn yet and not flaking off yet, very fixable all you have to do is take your time restoring the leather with a good quality THIN conditioner that will actually soak into the leather. We have had some vintage shoes that were never worn and not flaking off yet, that leather was as dry and stiff as a Tortilla Chip,...soaked the shoes in Cadillac Shoe and Boot conditioner for a week, adding conditioner as it soaked in, rubbing it a few times a day to help massage it into the leather, and checking how much "flex" was coming back into the leather. Once the leather felt like it has soaked up enough, slick to the feel when you sort of squeeze it, then you let the shoes sit and dry a few days, wipe the excess conditioner off the outside and inside of the shoes, buff them a day or more with a old T shirt, and them apply the appropriate cream polish and then a wax polish. This same conditioner, Cadillac, will also aide on the stitching on shoes, to help bring that "thread" back to life and must used on the inside of boots or shoes as well, so it can actually get all the way into the leather.

Once any shoe or boot has been properly conditioned, to give the shoe a "maintenance" application of conditioner should be done every so often to help keep them soft and supply and to help avoid the leather from drying out again. Conditioner is a must even on new shoes and of course, shoe trees as well.

Leather soles can be conditioned, and crepe soles as well including rubber. Crepe if not flaking off can be soaked in a pan with a layer of clear liquid silicone to restore it along with rubber, just avoid it getting on the leather so you don't get a stain on the leather.

It may be at times a challenge for Vintages shoes, to restore and maintain them, but they are so worth the effort. As you can see from a few examples of how fantastic vintage shoes can look, they are also made most of the time, with a very higher standard of workmanship and quality of leather. Now of course we are talking of what we know as vintage shoes...I can't say that what we buy today, Allen Edmonds or modern shoes will last for 70 to a 100 years as the quality of the leather today is not the same, even some handmade shoes are not made with the highest quality of leather. Thus the reason for vintage....and you get what you pay for...you can find some never worn vintage shoes that to have a pair custom made now to look the same is going to cost you more than a grand and then you have to find a custom shoemaker willing to make an exact duplicate...NOT a copy but an actual duplicate...good luck with that, as it more than likely will not happen. We have never paid more than $600.00 for any vintage shoes, I would think the average price has been around $300.00 for vintage and most of the time, those shoes had never been worn or maybe worn one time.....

Leather jackets are all in the same boat as shoes. Good leather stored in a proper way, should be fine if conditioned and maintained. We only have one vintage jacket, a black bomber jacket from 1950's...and it looks brand new...it was never worn we purchased, my Husband gave it a good week long run with conditioner rubbing and letting it soak in and that jacket is like the day it was made.

 

[LuvMyMan]

I've got a pair of Florsheim Imperials that not only have stood the test of time, but show absolutely no sign of dying any time soon.
I think a good pair of shoes will last you, after all, old shoes were made to last.
But having said that, I feel your pain. I'm cautious with old suits, hats, even ties.
I think a healthy collection of new and old works best. I've got Rockport shoes for days it's snowy or rainy, and my Florsheims for nicer weather and more special occasions.
Nonetheless, if the shoes were well made, you shouldn't worry TOO much. And if they weren't well made, thennn... you also shouldn't worry too much.

The older Florsheim shoes are a deal if they are not too bad off when you first obtain them. Many do not know but way back in the day, Florsheim was THE standard for top quality shoes and of course, the gunboats they made were made to last years of use, walking and taking a beating. Most Florsheim shoes can be resoled and conditioned up and made to look very very presentable, a worthy investment indeed!

I have resoled a few vintage shoes, by hand. Not an easy way to do things, but it gives me the chance to remove the inner cork, clean up the surface of the bottom of the inner shoes, replace the cork, then put the new sole on using two needles at one time, when done the edge of the leather gets trimmed with a special made for shoe sole knife, and edged on a wheel/belt sander made for shoe edging and then either a clear sealer or colored edge sealer is applied.

I only use leather replacement soles from Italy. Why? To date it is my only source for sole leather than had been processed and tanned to the degree that it is called, "bark tanned" or "oak tanned", which is how leather soles used to be processed back in the day. It will last far longer then other leather replacement soles. When I make a build up for a leather heel, I use that same leather to make a "stack" for the heel as well, and can add the old vintage "V" cleat if desired or replace a heel with a rubber vintage cats paw or similar vintage heel, including a half plate that has some partial rubber diagonally on the edge of the bottom of the heel, as many vintage dress shoes have from the factory.

 

[LuvMyMan]

I have to be particular about suits for obvious reasons. There's a member on here named Rabbit, whom I'm not sure is still active, but his style was awesome and his clothes fit as if they were bespoke. Pretty much all of his suits were true vintage. An inspiring figure for sure

I just wish i had his luck

He is a moderator on another website, but if you find a post by him here on the lounge and contact him I am sure he would reply. Rabbit has very intense good taste for true vintage clothing and a love for hats as well.

 

[-30-]

"He is a moderator on another website "

POSTINGS, by both you and he, within this forum, can only be described as being PRICELESS.

Kind regards,
J T

 

[redlinerobert]

I think it all boils down to condition. If the shoes are really nice and worth it to you, have them resoled. Personally I wouldn't wear a pair of used shoes unless they were completely resoled. Don't want anyone else's funk on my feet.

 

[LuvMyMan]

I think it all boils down to condition. If the shoes are really nice and worth it to you, have them resoled. Personally I wouldn't wear a pair of used shoes unless they were completely resoled. Don't want anyone else's funk on my feet.

I advise normally the very first thing to do on the inside of any shoes....disinfectant spray...and you can also help your shoes by using some saddle soap inside and out....a lightly damped old wash clothe...small amount of saddle soap on that...rub inside and out...let sit a few then lightly damp rinsed out wash clothe and wipe to rinse off the inside and outside of the shoes. Things I recommend are for any shoes...not just vintage shoes or boots. New shoes need all this the same as vintage. Cleaned, conditioned, then a cream polish and then if you desire a luster shine, use a wax polish. And of course, shoe trees!

 

[LuvMyMan]

I fully concur with ALL the above
At the risk of blasphemy I also add a Topy to the leather sole. It is a thin rubber like sole glued over top. It protects the leather sole especially in wet climates . It has a minimal thickness so does not alter the shoes profile and goes a long way in lengthening the life on any shoe....about $40

Topy is a good insurance policy against wearing out soles for sure. I have been using a product that is not as durable as Topy but is an easier and cheaper solution, it is a material that is very supple and a rubber/silicone compound made for shoe sole covering, much thinner than a Topy and comes in a red, black, or clear. It is more "gummy" than a Topy but will not last as long as a Topy. It has a self adhesive surface, but I use Barge all purpose cement to keep it mounted installing on the soles of a leather shoe or boot on dress shoes or dress boots... Topy can "pop" off a shoe sole, without warning. It is an issue that some Topy replacement sole blanks have had. Not sure if the adhesive may not been applied properly or perhaps the soles were not cleaned off enough???

 

[LuvMyMan]

I was never really a fan of spectators that were black/brown and gray,because they contradict the personality of traditional spectators to me. Nonetheless they look very sharp!

How much experience have you had wearing vintage shoes? if any, was there any positive aspects of it?

This is more or less off topic, but a neighbor of mine, a former serviceman that avidly collects WW2 militaria, claimed that pretty much all clothing from this period is impractical and susceptible to falling apart if worn, unless it was only worn for special occasions. This was brought up when I asked him about WW2 leather jackets, which, according to him, are an even bigger no-no when it comes to usability. As an owner of several 1930's-50's articles of clothing that I've gotten a lot of use of, I beg to differ on some of his points.

Clothing can be a dangerous risky purchase at times as mentioned in your post, but so can newer clothing items. Vintage clothing can really suffer damage by it's "use" if worn and washed before, as when clothing is washed and if then not rinsed well, the actual soap or bleach remains in the fibers, then elements of being dry also make clothing deteriorate. But you can still find WWII era wearable clothing. As to new clothing items, how many times have you put on a pair of white cotton socks and as you pull on them the material just rips? That is almost always due to not rinsing out well enough the detergent/bleach used in the washing of the items. Just like shoes, proper maintenance of what you own makes the item have a chance to last longer.

 

[belfastboy]

Topy is a good insurance policy against wearing out soles for sure. I have been using a product that is not as durable as Topy but is an easier and cheaper solution, it is a material that is very supple and a rubber/silicone compound made for shoe sole covering, much thinner than a Topy and comes in a red, black, or clear. It is more "gummy" than a Topy but will not last as long as a Topy. It has a self adhesive surface, but I use Barge all purpose cement to keep it mounted installing on the soles of a leather shoe or boot on dress shoes or dress boots... Topy can "pop" off a shoe sole, without warning. It is an issue that some Topy replacement sole blanks have had. Not sure if the adhesive may not been applied properly or perhaps the soles were not cleaned off enough???

What is it called? Would love to find a cheaper alt to Topy for my knockaround boots.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Topy is a good insurance policy against wearing out soles for sure. I have been using a product that is not as durable as Topy but is an easier and cheaper solution, it is a material that is very supple and a rubber/silicone compound made for shoe sole covering, much thinner than a Topy and comes in a red, black, or clear. It is more "gummy" than a Topy but will not last as long as a Topy. It has a self adhesive surface, but I use Barge all purpose cement to keep it mounted installing on the soles of a leather shoe or boot on dress shoes or dress boots... Topy can "pop" off a shoe sole, without warning. It is an issue that some Topy replacement sole blanks have had. Not sure if the adhesive may not been applied properly or perhaps the soles were not cleaned off enough???

Good explaination of your applying shoes rubber protection process. Thanks for sharing.

My cobbler prefers the Vibram brand sole protectors. According to him, this sole protector brand is more durable than others he has tried. The soles protectors from Vibram come in a enormous variety of colors. They even had a bright red that worked for my wifes Jimmy Choo heels! These are frequently worn heels that travel. The rubber bottoms make her heels very easy to use/wear. Variety of patterns exist in the Vibram offerings. I have had used a Vibram Tartar which is a plaid rubber pattern on a thin rubber protective sole put onto an older pair of Alden Walkers. Just cause it looked cool. It did not show unless the viewer could see the bottom, but I liked it.

I have asked in the past the process and here is a quick run-down:
(1) If client approves rough the surface with light sandpaper. If not approve, clean with alcohol and let dry thoroughly.
(2) Apply Barge (brand of rubber cement) cement both the shoes and protectors the trimmed soles.
(3) Bond the sole. I have seen the shoe in a clamp contraption and they have used rubber bands and string on my vtg.spade shoes. The leathers covered with flannel. Shoe trees if bands are used are needed. On custom shoes they have asked that I bring the custom shoe tress.
(4) Cure. I was told 5 hours for curing before triming.
(5) Trim sole using a beveled angle.

I see the Vibram sheets (6" x 18") for around $12.00 retail on the web. Vibram Repair Catalog here: https://us.vibram.com/on/demandware...pdfs/vibram-shoe-repair-catalog-june-2015.pdf

(It is important that the sole protector is thin so that it does not negatively affect the designed rocker of the shoe. )

Best, Eric -