wash your jeans?

[Rich22]

That sounds frightfully complicated.

It is. It's a nightmare buying clothes that fit me and don't look horrible. At least tailoring is cheap in Asia! Even with tailoring it took a while to grasp what works for me and what doesn't- with rise for example if the back is correct at 17" but the front is too high at say 14" then it impedes mobility and can make it hard raising my legs to walk up stairs! Problems also occur when hips and leg openings are wide but the taper is rapid to mid thigh.

 

[Rich22]

I’ve never quite understood what athletic fit means. Surely most athletes are supposedly lean and can fit in standard cuts pretty well.

Look at soccer players, cyclists, tennis players, the more nimble football players, and heck, even badminton players..... lean guys for sure, but with disproportionately big thighs and ass for their weight and waist size.

I was friends with a handful of pro sports people from my uni days, and when they were competing they all had issues fitting into trousers and jeans. I wasn't the athlete they were by any stretch of the imagination, but I hit the weights and played a ton of sport. I have a 35" waist currently, only an inch bigger than when I was 22, and 27" thighs. The wife of one of my friends went to try and buy him jeans for his birthday once, and told the assistant he had 29" thighs and a 31" waist. The assistant jokingly asked if he was a freak

 

[Seb Lucas]

Hell, Rich I've never thought vey much about the jeans I wear until reading this site. I generally get a 33 inch waist with a 34 inch inseam. I only learned there was a difference in rise a couple of years ago after 35 years of buying jeans at target, Kmart or thrift stores. I've been the same size for around 35 years and thankfully have never exercised or played sport or developed a taste for junk food so I do not need any special accommodations. What I do want are some old school, high end corduroy pants.

 

[Trenchfriend]

I still got "32/"32 (german 46) and luckily, the size is still in production!

 

[torfjord]

Look at soccer players, cyclists, tennis players, the more nimble football players, and heck, even badminton players..... lean guys for sure, but with disproportionately big thighs and ass for their weight and waist size.

I was friends with a handful of pro sports people from my uni days, and when they were competing they all had issues fitting into trousers and jeans. I wasn't the athlete they were by any stretch of the imagination, but I hit the weights and played a ton of sport. I have a 35" waist currently, only an inch bigger than when I was 22, and 27" thighs. The wife of one of my friends went to try and buy him jeans for his birthday once, and told the assistant he had 29" thighs and a 31" waist. The assistant jokingly asked if he was a freak

You don't need to do a lot of weight lifting to start having trouble with trouser fit. I used to do squats and deadlifts about three days a week (sadly not as consistent since starting a family), and it became totally impossible for me to wear regular fit jeans. The size of my thighs couldn't fit in them and I was no body builder or pro athlete by any stretch of the imagination.

 

[Rich22]

Hell, Rich I've never thought vey much about the jeans I wear until reading this site. I generally get a 33 inch waist with a 34 inch inseam. I only learned there was a difference in rise a couple of years ago after 35 years of buying jeans at target, Kmart or thrift stores. I've been the same size for around 35 years and thankfully have never exercised or played sport or developed a taste for junk food so I do not need any special accommodations. What I do want are some old school, high end corduroy pants.

The benefits of being a regular size! When I’d find jeans that fit without a huge waist, jackets that fit my chest without otherwise being far too big, business shirts that didn’t look like a tent, etc etc, I’d buy maybe 5 of each. Clothes shopping was definitely a chore.

Im 6’1, and for years I was about 245lbs. If it had been distributed in the same way my father distributed his own 245lbs it would have been substantially easier to buy clothes that fit! Haha

 

[Edward]

Hell, Rich I've never thought vey much about the jeans I wear until reading this site. I generally get a 33 inch waist with a 34 inch inseam. I only learned there was a difference in rise a couple of years ago after 35 years of buying jeans at target, Kmart or thrift stores. I've been the same size for around 35 years and thankfully have never exercised or played sport or developed a taste for junk food so I do not need any special accommodations. What I do want are some old school, high end corduroy pants.

Check out Aero's offerings (though be warned, they definitely are exact, no vanity sizing). I've yet to handle better cords at any price. Beautifully made, serious, upholstery-quality, hefty corduroy. Soon as I shrink down enough myself, I'll be up at Gala for a pair or two. Ken wears 'em himself, which I like: there's something encouraging about a label owner who believes in his own product enough to actually wear it.

 

[zebedee]

I used to have a 36 inch waist and still have 29 inch leg(s)- for ten years in China, I got trousers tailor-made (many of which lasted 5 or 6 years). When I got down to a 34 inch waist, I was able to buy trousers in the UK that fit. American sizes still tend to be marginally too large for me, but the real problem is leg length and width- I have thighs and calves that are very 'dense' and therefore have to 'up' size in the waist when I don't want to, and then I'll usually need to get trouser legs shortened. Annoyingly, I'm long in the torso, so jackets still need to be at least 25.5 inches at the back for me not to feel that they're too short.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Check out Aero's offerings (though be warned, they definitely are exact, no vanity sizing). I've yet to handle better cords at any price. Beautifully made, serious, upholstery-quality, hefty corduroy. Soon as I shrink down enough myself, I'll be up at Gala for a pair or two. Ken wears 'em himself, which I like: there's something encouraging about a label owner who believes in his own product enough to actually wear it.

They look fabulous (especially the grey ones) and I have admired them in the past. Unfortunately I won't wear braces so they are not for me.

 

[patrick_b]

Check out their “High Taper” cut. It’s not really a super high waist... most Japanese denim companies have a pretty low rise to the point where most “Western sized” men would prefer a bit more.

A lot of these Japanese companies have started releasing cuts that finally fit well - not only in the rise, but also a nice tapered leg without being skinny. Ex: Japan Blue’s High Taper. Momotaro’s High Taper. Pure Blue Japan’s Relax Tapered. ONI’s Relax Tapered. Samurai’s Relax Taper.

Even most US based selvedge denim companies are revising their cuts from a skinny or standard slim straight... to this type of cut. Ex: 3sixteen’s NT (pretty aggressive), Rogue Territory will be releasing one shortly.

It’s pretty great; because you get room in the top block so your b***s can breathe, you can easily access your smartphone, but you have a nicely tapered lower leg.




I’m curious which fit you like from Gustin?

3Sixteen CT cut is perfect, higher rise, slight taper.

 

[Rich22]

I used to have a 36 inch waist and still have 29 inch leg(s)- for ten years in China, I got trousers tailor-made (many of which lasted 5 or 6 years). When I got down to a 34 inch waist, I was able to buy trousers in the UK that fit. American sizes still tend to be marginally too large for me, but the real problem is leg length and width- I have thighs and calves that are very 'dense' and therefore have to 'up' size in the waist when I don't want to, and then I'll usually need to get trouser legs shortened. Annoyingly, I'm long in the torso, so jackets still need to be at least 25.5 inches at the back for me not to feel that they're too short.

What did you do about jeans in that time? Tailor made or buy pairs with a waist a few sizes too big and synch it it/have it taken in?

Aside from living in China and having huge thighs in common, I also have the long torso issue. haha

 

[b1lf]

3Sixteen CT cut is perfect, higher rise, slight taper.

I personally prefer a much more tapered lower leg - but it’s definitely a nice cut if that’s what you’re looking for.

If you like that, check out Iron Heart’s 888 series. A step up in quality (in my experience, I’ve owned both) - yet a similar fit.


Iron Heart unfortunately doesn’t have an out-of-the-box fit for me just yet. I find the 888 with an additional knee-down taper from Railcar Fine Goods has produced an excellent fit.

 

[Rich22]

IH 888 works pretty well for me too. A bit snug on thigh and knee, but ok. Downsides are peculiar hip flare, widely acknowledged on IH's own forum, and for me at least, the front rise is a bit too high (rear rise is spot on). If you have a regular size ass and thighs they're a brilliant cut. The 'signature' 21oz fabric is my favourite.

 

[zebedee]

What did you do about jeans in that time? Tailor made or buy pairs with a waist a few sizes too big and synch it it/have it taken in?

Aside from living in China and having huge thighs in common, I also have the long torso issue. haha

I'd buy jeans online in the UK, although I found that many tailors stocked heavy fabrics in beige or black that sufficed. Carhartt and Dickies are also fairly good alternatives.

 

[navetsea]

what's causing hip flare? creases below the back pockets that stuck in place? or leg of the pants that is set with too much //\\ spread on the pattern?

 

[Trenchfriend]

The curious thing about Germany is, that we always call it "flared jeans/Schlaghosen", but the 70s flared jeans never came back. The fashion, that's booming here every ten years are always boot-cut jeans. BIG deal here from circa 1999 to 2002.

 

[Rich22]

what's causing hip flare? creases below the back pockets that stuck in place? or leg of the pants that is set with too much //\\ spread on the pattern?

Wide spread.

 

[patrick_b]

I personally prefer a much more tapered lower leg - but it’s definitely a nice cut if that’s what you’re looking for.

If you like that, check out Iron Heart’s 888 series. A step up in quality (in my experience, I’ve owned both) - yet a similar fit.


Iron Heart unfortunately doesn’t have an out-of-the-box fit for me just yet. I find the 888 with an additional knee-down taper from Railcar Fine Goods has produced an excellent fit.

Thanks for the heads up. Haven't owned IH yet. Always wanted to try the heavyweights. For me, 3Sixteen's CT offers the right amount of room up top and decent taper. Not sure I'd want more than that.

Big fan of Railcar flight trousers. They are also top notch! I ended up buying both colors over the last year.

My curse is short legs. 5'10" with a 29" inseam. Raw denim brands are comically long on me, always requiring a hem by Railcar or the manufacturer. Fortunately, 3Sixteen offers chainstitch hems now and I know their fits. When I decide to try another brand, I'll have to order, try on then ship for hemming.

 

[b1lf]

Thanks for the heads up. Haven't owned IH yet. Always wanted to try the heavyweights. For me, 3Sixteen's CT offers the right amount of room up top and decent taper. Not sure I'd want more than that.

Big fan of Railcar flight trousers. They are also top notch! I ended up buying both colors over the last year.

My curse is short legs. 5'10" with a 29" inseam. Raw denim brands are comically long on me, always requiring a hem by Railcar or the manufacturer. Fortunately, 3Sixteen offers chainstitch hems now and I know their fits. When I decide to try another brand, I'll have to order, try on then ship for hemming.

What I’m saying is, the 888 cut from Iron Heart will give you the same fit as 3sixteen’s CT cut, right off the rack.

Ordering from Iron Heart direct, you can get chain stitch hemming service for just $15. And shipping is free.

I wish Iron Heart made the perfect fit for me right off the rack because their construction/stitching is the best I’ve seen on any pair of denim - to the point where even Railcar’s work for my custom taper seems to pale in comparison.

Iron Heart’s flagship 21oz denim is highly wearable - I live in LA and I’m still wearing my pair daily (I’m an engineer in construction - a mix of mostly office and some field time). It’s surprisingly breathable and pliable for the weight.

They make lighter weights as well but this would be my top recommendation for your first IH pair.

 

[patrick_b]

What I’m saying is, the 888 cut from Iron Heart will give you the same fit as 3sixteen’s CT cut, right off the rack.

Ordering from Iron Heart direct, you can get chain stitch hemming service for just $15. And shipping is free.

I wish Iron Heart made the perfect fit for me right off the rack because their construction/stitching is the best I’ve seen on any pair of denim - to the point where even Railcar’s work for my custom taper seems to pale in comparison.

Iron Heart’s flagship 21oz denim is highly wearable - I live in LA and I’m still wearing my pair daily (I’m an engineer in construction - a mix of mostly office and some field time). It’s surprisingly breathable and pliable for the weight.

They make lighter weights as well but this would be my top recommendation for your first IH pair.

Thanks! Definitely on my list. I've never worn anything heavier than 14oz so something 50% heavier seems outrageous. However, so many folks rave about the wearability of IH 21oz denim, it's really something I'd like to try.

Appreciate the recommendation.