Was Roughwear The Original Manufacturer Of The Iconic Hercules Jacket?

[tmitchell59]

Fantastic photos Terry, was that the Victory horsehide?

No. Not Victory, the other one!

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

No. Not Victory, the other one!

The Liberty, that’s what I got, you’re right the Victory was much waxier looking.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

Here’s a vintage photograph I purchased, looks like a Rough Wear?

https://imgur.com/4M92VBt

https://imgur.com/iMEZiWZ

 

[handymike]

I remember way back when I ordered my Imperial from GW that I had a discussion with John about these jackets making everyone look like they had a potbelly. Once he patterned his Herc repro, he wrote that the center zip does indeed curve outwards. You can see it in this vintage photo. Few makers incorporate it these days, but it is an original detail.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

I’m guessing it’s the extra length in the body; the bottom end is pushing against the upper thighs which in turn is pushing the zipper back up.

Any kind of bottom panel or patch pockets also tends to accentuate the gut region too

 

[handymike]

it's actually added into the pattern along the main zip.

I first noticed it on a FL members jacket back in 2011, but the images are lost to PhotoBucket and the great erasure. It interests me that this pattern is a 3D design with the buldge going all the way-round the body.

people don't design like that anymore. a real quirk (and kinda cool) IMO.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Is this a vintage jacket or a repro? If it is a Roughwear vintage jacket, then what does the back look like?

 

[jeo]

Is this a vintage jacket or a repro? If it is a Roughwear vintage jacket, then what does the back look like?

View attachment 552088

Yes, vintage original RW.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Wow! Thank you! Just too awesome. Two

Yes, vintage original RW.

View attachment 552096 View attachment 552100 View attachment 552098 View attachment 552097

super awesome photos showed up today. Roughwear is really nice. Thanks Jeo.

 

[ton312]

I remember way back when I ordered my Imperial from GW that I had a discussion with John about these jackets making everyone look like they had a potbelly. Once he patterned his Herc repro, he wrote that the center zip does indeed curve outwards. You can see it in this vintage photo. Few makers incorporate it these days, but it is an original detail.

I hate it. It’s actually the primary reason that the fever over the OG Herc is lost on me. There’s plenty of pizza and beer in the world to make me fat. Jacket should hide that IMO.

 

[Brandrea33]

Wha

I hate it. It’s actually the primary reason that the fever over the OG Herc is lost on me. There’s plenty of pizza and beer in the world to make me fat. Jacket should hide that IMO.

John certainly doesn’t incorporate that detail into his current Hercules pattern.

 

[ton312]

Wha

John certainly doesn’t incorporate that detail into his current Hercules pattern.


View attachment 552195 View attachment 552196

Looks better for it too. I think most repros actually exceed the original aesthetically in the case of this model. My Aero version was modified and also looked far better.

 

[Brandrea33]

Looks better for it too. I think most repros actually exceed the original aesthetically in the case of this model. My Aero version was modified and also looked far better.
View attachment 552202

Beautiful! What’s the leather and the lining, if you don’t mind?

 

[ton312]

Beautiful! What’s the leather and the lining, if you don’t mind?

Black brown vic, the liner was a really loud tartan, like a bowl of fruit loops.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

Looks better for it too. I think most repros actually exceed the original aesthetically in the case of this model. My Aero version was modified and also looked far better.

Considering how well Jake’s fits him I’d have to disagree there, most repros just don’t get the proportions right.

 

[ton312]

I suppose it comes down to personal preference. I just don’t care for bloated bodied jackets. I personally don’t find it flattering.

Considering how well Jake’s fits him I’d have to disagree there, most repros just don’t get the proportions right.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

Definitely, I’m not a fan of things fitting slim, I’d much rather have a “powerful” silhouette than anything slim or sleek.

 

[Jasonissm]

Definitely, I’m not a fan of things fitting slim, I’d much rather have a “powerful” silhouette than anything slim or sleek.

Leather jackets are one of the few articles of clothing that I prefer a trim fit.

The back of the Hercules however really does give a powerful expression though, the shape of the three back panels tapering towards the half belt, it's always given off the impression of a very nice V-taper to me, even if the front of the same jacket may look completely straight cut.

 

[RiteStuffBryan]

Got my BK Heracles in black Liberty horsehide in and took some pics:

-I had custom taffeta a d damask woven tags done up for this one as it’s a sample in case I want to do a run of them.
-Changed the cuff adjuster to the early, rounded style
-Switched out the waist adjuster buckle for a rectangular nickel one
-Changed the pocket zipper to a Talon ball and chain
-Asked for the cuff to be slightly smaller but not too small

This Liberty HH is very soft and ready to wear, no break in required but it does have some heft to it. Interesting smoky smell. If I’d do anything differently I might change the hand warmer pocket bag lining to corduroy:

 

[robrinay]

This Hercules is arriving today -I’ve always wondered if the label while hinting at California Sportswear really was made by them.