Wanted: 1950s Style Jeans

[TheThinMan511]

Hello: Is anyone familiar with a store in Los Angeles or an online vendor that sells high-waisted, wide leg, 1950s style men's jeans at reasonable prices? I'm familiar with both the RRL Store and MIster Freedom, but their prices are -- let me put it diplomatically -- ambitious. I actually have a few pairs but can't wear them until I lose a few pounds. I'm also open to buying a pre-owned pair if you know of any brands/models that fit the description. I know that many, like Ralph Lauren's Carpenter Jeans have wide legs, but often these modern versions have only a medium rise and are not high-waisted like the originals. I thank you in advance for any suggestions. Cheers, Bradley

 

[AeroFan_07]

How about Raw, un-finished and un-washed Levi's 501's; under $55.00 a pair...?

If you're a 36Wx34L I have a new pair with tags still on them I would sell you.

They look just like these...
https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/cloth...original-shrink-to-fit-mens-jeans/p/005010000

Here's a review of them, looks like many of the fellows in your photo above were wearing these:
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/levis-jeans-review/

And here's how to "break them in" if you choose to, as well as some hints on raw denim:
https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/blog/article/what-is-raw-denim

 

[TheThinMan511]

Thanks for the suggestions, but these are not what I'm looking for. They are a straight fit with only a mid-rise. I've found some styles online that are high-waisted, wide-legged and made with selvedge denim, but I am still open to ideas. I'd love to find something local so I could try them on, but that might not be a possibility, as most of the stores that carry these are going to charge more than I want to pay.

 

[tamz0r]

red tornado makes some quality repros that might fit the bill for you OP. i have both the 55501 model and s1000xx and enjoy wearing both. think you can get em on ebay or aliexpress

 

[TheThinMan511]

Thanks; I'm looking at some of the models now. Unfortunately, I can't find the rise measurement and it seems the longest inseam is 32, which is quite strange.

 

[One Drop]

Hello: Is anyone familiar with a store in Los Angeles or an online vendor that sells high-waisted, wide leg, 1950s style men's jeans at reasonable prices? I'm familiar with both the RRL Store and MIster Freedom, but their prices are -- let me put it diplomatically -- ambitious. I actually have a few pairs but can't wear them until I lose a few pounds. I'm also open to buying a pre-owned pair if you know of any brands/models that fit the description. I know that many, like Ralph Lauren's Carpenter Jeans have wide legs, but often these modern versions have only a medium rise and are not high-waisted like the originals. I thank you in advance for any suggestions. Cheers, Bradley

Try the Lee 101 '50s Rider jeans, a bit pricey but high quality Japanese selvedge denim and are very well cut, made in Italy. I think they are available in 2 versions, the RHT in dark raw denim among other washes, and the more authentic Left Hand Twill in a beautiful slightly lighter blue colour. A bit pricy but you can find them cheaper on eBay or Etsy, and sometimes they show up used.

Lee 101 '50s Rider Jean Selvedge Denim on Garmentory

Jeans are just jeans until you meet Lee® 101 denim jeans. As any denim connoisseur knows, 101 Rider jeans are among the best blue jeans in the world. Crafted from 13-oz. Japanese selvedge non-stretch denim, the Rider jean is an elevated silhouette backed by more than a century of denim...

www.garmentory.com

Wrangler's original Cowboy Cut 13MWZ are cut almost the same dimensions as the Lee, and are an incredible deal, being well made from very high quality denim , they fit great and will stand up to very heavy wear. The raw versions are also a very nice blue, just don't expect crazy fades from this denim.

Both are original '50s cuts and are very comfortable and allow for a lot of movement, but with their high waist you need to get the sizing right if you have a gut. The Lees and Wranglers both fit me true to size, and look and feel fantastic, I have a pair of each. The Lees are normally available in different lengths, the Wranglers is multiple lengths, and both are incidentally very much back in fashion now if that matters to you.

Almost all of the Japanese brands are now making authentic '50s versions, some in traditional smooth selvedge and others in more exotic denim varieties, many are less expensive than Mister Freedom and RRL, but are still fairly spendy.

 

[Edward]

Cathcart do very nice selvedge denim in a few different, period-correct, cuts and fits. As long as you're not into the 'denim should be the same thickness and weight as lead' thing (they are a period-correct weight; denim in the middle twentieth century was never the 18oz+ weights that have become fashionable with the denimheads in the last decade or so), these might fit the bill. A bit cheaper than a lot of the bigger names, and half the price of a lot of cult denim brands I've handled - and every bit as good.

Denim – Cathcart

www.cathcartheritage.com

Freddies of Pinewood are not *quite* as nice as the Cathcart imo, if a little cheaper (I'd pay the extra £25 for the Cathcarts myself, but if you're setting a ceiling of £100 on this....). The 1940s model is closest the description of what you want. Just one word of warning: on these, Freddies fit a set of studs for braces, and the rear buckle is on the waistband at the back (or was on my last couple of pairs a few years back). The upshot of this is they are great with braces, but won't comfortably take a belt, so be aware of that. Their 1950s models are nice, though just a touch slimmer in the leg (which would be fine with me) and a touch lower in the waist (I'm wary of this).

Men's 1940s Jeans - Freddies of Pinewood

Our Men’s 1940s Jeans in washed, pre-shrunk,narrow loom, selvedge denim – just like the originals. These are an authentic reproduction of a 1940s , pre World War Two [USA, that is !] jeans. They have a higher waist and a wider leg than our 1950s jeans. They feature braces buttons, cinch back...

www.freddiesofpinewood.co.uk

Lutece MFG do similar styles, around EU125 a pair. I've always been impressed with the quality of anything I've handled from them.

Trousers

Trousers: Marlene Vintage Jeans Quartermaster Denim - Quartermaster Denim Jeans 30-40er Jahre Style no Chinch Back - Quartermaster Denim Jeans 30er Jahre St

lutece-mfg.com

At the vastly more affordable end of the market, I've been very impressed with the "USN" denim jeans sold by Soldier of Fortune in the UK (not sure if these are available somewhere in the US, like WPG? They do have some common stock with WPG). Selvedge, around GBP50. I've had a couple of pairs, and found them to be on par with the Freddies and Lutece, at a much reduced price. They are having a restocking delay at present, so this one might be one to keep in mind for the future, but... The 1930s model is a touch narrower in the leg (might work for 1950s style as well, imo), but the 1940s is great, very 'Brando'. Good, wide leg, 36" inseam as standard to allow for a cuff, very much like the 1940s Freddies model, except the buckle is in a different place and there's no braces studs, so they're ideal for a belt.

https://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/usn-red-selvage-denim-jeans-1930-s-us-navy-deck-jeans.html

US Navy 1940s denim deck Jeans USN Red Selvage jeans

Classic 1940's vintage look American jeans made with Red Selvage denim. Limited stock at the moment, as there is a huge backlog at the factory. We do not currently have a delivery date for the next batch of jeans. As soon as the denim factory informs us of a delivery date we will update this...

www.sofmilitary.co.uk

They have in the past sometimes also had the 1940s model without the back buckle - watch out for it if that appeals.

Here's a couple of options also if you're not absolutely wedded to it being selvedge (for me, because I always cuff my jeans, it's a nice touch, but it's not one that's worth a huge upcharge; I've never known selvedge in my personal experience to be any longer lasting or qualitatively superior to non-selvedge denim, all other things being equal - YMMV).

Wrangler 13MWZ Cowboy Cut

Really decent pair of jeans - I've on my third pair now. Had two pairs bought just before the pandemic that had three years of hard wear - little else being worn during lockdown. Just over two years in each pair of near daily wear before they started to thin in the upper inside thigh; I patched that up, and had I not lost 70lbs, I'd still be wearing them into their fifth year now. These aren't so easy to lay hands on here in the UK/ Europe, but as you're in the US, they're dirt cheap:

https://www.wrangler.com/shop/rigid-wrangler-cowboy-cut-original-fit-jean-13MWZR.html?merchCategory=WRG_DENIM_MENS_JEANS_COWBOYCUT&dwvar_13MWZR_color=0013MWZ

Honestly, unless you're wedded to a very specific thing - selvedge, button fly and the rest - they're an absolute no-brainer for jeans. One of the best brass zippers I've ever had in jeans (hence the name - "Men's, With Zip - MWZ; trouser zippers were a big marketing thing when these first came out.), great stuff. Ignore the photo that makes the standard cut look super-skinny; they're more similar to a pair of Dickies 874s in my experience. The cut is exactly the same as they were when the model was first released in 1947 (as the 11MWZ - the name changed to 13MWZ a couple of years later when the denim used went from 11oz to 13. Now it's between 13 and 15 depending on colour you choose). American denim, Mexican manufacture if that makes any odds. The only fault I've ever found with these is I wish they did a really dark indigo, that almost blue-black colour Brando wore. Still, unbeatable at this price - around forty bucks US- and more than hold their own against the pricier options above. If you do want a wider leg than the regular fit, the 31MWZ is your birdy.

Another great, all-USA, option is Prison Blues. These come in a regular 5-pocket jean or a work jean with the 'carpenter pockets'. The latter can be had with or without studs for braces. I had a pair of each back in 2008 when they were first available over here, and loved them both. A couple of years ago now when I lost a lot of weight I picked up a pair of the carpenters with braces buttons (I'm earing them now) from the UK reseller, on sale. I'd have bought more from them, but sadly the sale was then closing down - they were the EU Supplier for Prison Blues across all of the EU, but the business model was rendered unviable by Brexit. Not selvedge, but really great denim. About 14oz, really hard-wearing. All 1950s cuts, earlier fifties with a great width to them. Not s cheap as the Wranglers, but a nice alternative. The zipper on mine doesn't feel quite as robust as the one in the Wranglers, but for all that it doesn't feel at all fragile, and it's not let me down.

Work Jeans & Denim Apparel - Men's Clothes Made in USA | Prison Blues

Last up.... Collectif. Collectif is a UK based brand that produces and sells repro vintage clothing (in both accurate vintage cuts and more modernised 'inspired by' cuts - generally very easy to tell from the website). They have US stockists as well. In some corners of the UK 'vintage scene' it's popular to sneer at them because they're affordable, but they do some very nice bits at good prices (especially in regular sales). I bought a pair of their Eddie jeans in a half price sale last year, very pleased with them. The fit is fantastic. They are a period-accurate, lighter denim - 11 or 12 oz - which a lot of folks don't want nowadays, but is exactly right for the period. Great, deep indigo colour. What I find a cute touch is the stitching on the seams is done in a way that when you cuff them it sort of apes the detail of selvedge. It'll never fool anyone into think it's selvedge, but it's a nice visual detail in and of itself, and shows a nice attention to detail in the design. I don't know if I'd pay full price for these (primarily because as with the Freddies they are limited to braces-wear), BUT at the sub-£40 I paid on sale, they were an excellent buy.

Collectif: Vintage Inspired Clothing

Make your vintage fashion dreams a reality with Collectif. Shop vintage inspired dresses, retro tops, and retro menswear. Discover unique styles and vintage fashion trends from the 40s, 50s, 60s, and 70s, and explore our unique collection of vintage styles today. Shop now and experience the...

www.collectiflondon.com

 

[Edward]

Thanks; I'm looking at some of the models now. Unfortunately, I can't find the rise measurement and it seems the longest inseam is 32, which is quite strange.

That can be a problem with the more affordable end of the market. I suppose it saves cloth and ultimately money to cut to a standard length, but it's not much use if you want a good cuff...