waistcoat questions

[Ethan Bentley]

A Question.

Does anyone have any idea why the buttons on this waistcoat would be arranged like this?

 

[Dinerman]

style?

 

[Mid-fogey]

Do what...

...you want. If someone says something, say:"oh, that's out now."

 

[Mid-fogey]

Do what...

...you want. If someone says something, say: "oh, that's out now. People don't do that anymore." People are so ignorant/confused these days you may as well take advantage of it.

 

[WH1]

hmmm too much scotch or perhaps not enough.:eusa_doh:

It looks a bit strange,actually a lot strange. Perhaps it is his "reinterpratation of a classic" always a dangerous sign just look at the abomination which is Brooks Brothers Black Label by Thom Brown, may he burn in....but I rant

 

[scottyrocks]

I always keep the bottom button undone, whether on a jacket or waistcoat because thats the way I was taught, and I like the way it looks. When you put those two factors together, that makes it 'right' for me.

As for my watch chains, I have worn them fastened to a button hole, and the watch in the right side pocket (I'm right-handed). I also wear the chain through the 4th (usually) button-hole - the watch in the right, and fob in the left, pockets. The 4th hole is usually the one that is in line with the pockets in my waistcoats.

 

[MisterCairo]

Moral of the story: do what you like. I go both ways, as my fancy strikes me.

There's a bar in my hometown you may be interested in.......

 

[WideBrimm]

Regarding the odd arrangement of buttons... Eccentricity ? And the fact that there are 7 buttons... Good Luck ?

 

[dr greg]

Wear it

The main thing is...and this is important (to some of us anyway): you can be sure you won't run into anyone else wearing one when you're out and about....I think it looks good.

 

[Ethan Bentley]

style?

Well yes I'm sure that is quite probably but some styles have more reasons behind them the buttons style has a purpose beyond individuality.

Has anyone seen anything like it before?

I do agree, if you like it, wear it. If you look confident wearing it you are likely to look good anyway.

 

[billyspew]

Has anyone seen anything like it before?

Only on two other instances from the same seller.

 

[Edward]

The waistcoat pictured above is interesting.... I'm not sure whether I'd wear it, but.... hmmnnnn... It does seem to me that there should be some purpose to it. I would hazzard a guess at mid-late Victoriana being the basic design inspiration - say 1880s. My gut reaction - assuming there is a utilitarian purpose to it - is to say that the design would allow the top buttons to stay in place and hold the waistcoat closed, while the bottom ones were opened for convenience - perhaps when riding, for example. Or, maybe, to make drawing a sidearm from a holster in the general area of the waistband easier, while the length of the waistcoat still covers the pistol butt? Is it an American product (in which case working around a concealed carry is infinitely more likely than, say, if it is a design of European origin)?

Actually, I'd wear it as part of a steampunk outfit...

 

[Edward]

That's interesting.. I'd say that almost all British men do not button their waistcoat's bottom button whatever the cut. It's a really strong tradition here I think but do Americans and other non Brits not have this tradition to such a strong degree? I mean what percentage of Americans do you reckon carry on this tradition? I'm seeing the tradition die out a little in the UK I think but has it always been less in the U.S? Really interested in this so if you get time...

Waistcoats themselves have been dying out in the UK for a long time - I suppose it's simply changes in fashion, there no longer being a concern about displaying the waistband, and it also being much cheaper to produce a two-piece suit.... I do see them coming back - good on the one hand as I do like a waistcoat, whether as part of a suit or a non-matching-but-complementary garment - bad, in that most of what is being passed off by the mainstream as a waistcoat today is more akin to a boob tube.... sitting half an inch to an inch above the waistband (maybe not the case with higher waisted trews, though, bearing in mind that waistbands seem to be getting lower and lower). when the bottom of the waistcoat sits that high, there is no need to unbutton the bottom button for comfort when sitting down, so.... [huh]

I've only ever found one photograph of the mature Edward VII in civilian dress that clearly showed his waistcoat:

Notice all of the buttons are done up. He is wearing a kilt below, and I don't know if that affects matters.

Moral of the story: do what you like. I go both ways, as my fancy strikes me.

Absolutely!

FWIW, jackets worn with a kilt (such as an Argyle or a Prince Charlie) tend to be much higher cut at the waist than a traditional sportscoat or suit jacket; I think that the same can be said, though to a much lesser degree, of the waistcoat worn with a kilt also, in which case again there is no practical reason to unbutton the bottom button.

Ah the double chain is a nice touch, particularly if you've got another useful charm to go on the other end. I recently got a small compass and magnifier for mine.
I am right-handed and I'm currently wearing my watch, with a single chain, in the left pocket.

Does anyone have any charms for their pocket watch chains?

I'm a lefty, and still experimenting with chain placement. A single chain feels 'right' to me on the left hand side (same reason I have always worn a wristwatch on my dominant arm, as opposed to the more typical tradition of wearing it on the non-dominant). I do, however, have a solid silver double Albert. Not sure of age exactly, but I suspect Victorian, came down through the family. I wear it exclusively with white tie. I recently picked up a 30s or 40s (not yet sure) Oris pocketwatch for a song on eBay, which I will now wear with that. This one has an 'open' face - i.e. it's not a hunter or half hunter (my preference for other occasions). I do think that that can make a big difference - the way the face is oriented on any hunter I've ever encountered has been designed for it being opened with the right hand, so such a watch would end up going in whichever pocket was convenient for that.

As to charms, on the other end of my silver chain, I currently have a small (about 1" closed) Guiness-branded pocket knife. Not sure of age - I don't think any more recent than maybe 70s, but probably not Golden Era by any means? Looks right on there, though. Eventually, I would like to have one of those little fob fountain pens on there. Another chain I have (but as yet, no watch for it) is a genuine 1930s brass chain, with rose-gold plating. This is a single chain, and has a small compass fob hanging from it. Very nice. Still looking for the right watch to go with it.

Question on double chains: which end should the watch go on, and which the charm if one is shorter and the other longer?

 

[dnjan]

The waistcoat pictured above is interesting.... I'm not sure whether I'd wear it, but.... hmmnnnn... It does seem to me that there should be some purpose to it. I would hazzard a guess at mid-late Victoriana being the basic design inspiration - say 1880s. My gut reaction - assuming there is a utilitarian purpose to it - is to say that the design would allow the top buttons to stay in place and hold the waistcoat closed, while the bottom ones were opened for convenience - perhaps when riding, for example.

I definitely like this explanation. Has such an air of practicality about it ...

 

[Ethan Bentley]

Edward, I thought you would be a chap to offer a theory on this matter.Thank you.

I am right handed but have my pocket watch in my left pocket using a T-bar chain.

I also know what you mean about waistcoats, if you go to any number of restaurant or gastro-pubs I often see women wearing these tiny waistcoats, rather scanty but at least they wear a blouse underneath.

I am a big fan of the bottom button undone, and always smile when I see a chap who is familiar with the practice. I once saw a French chap in Paris who adhered to the fashion, I thought was a nice touch.

 

[Dan D]

Dress waistcoats.

It's my understanding that waistcoats worn with dinner jackets are cut straight across the bottom, rather than having points - these are supposed to be always worn with the bottom button done up, thereby creating a clean line across.

Or so I've read. Somewhere.

 

[Ethan Bentley]

Inspiration perhaps?

Thanks to Mrs. B for the heads up on this.

 

[Feraud]

Question on double chains: which end should the watch go on, and which the charm if one is shorter and the other longer?

Good question.
I was about to answer the watch would go on the longer one and the charm on the shorter. The idea being the charm is less used than the watch and the longer chain used in removing and viewing the watch.
However... (isn't there always one?) if your charm is an old school pencil, cigar cutter, lighter, penknife, etc. it would make sense to keep this on the longer one. I just don't know..lol

 

[Ethan Bentley]

Good question.
I was about to answer the watch would go on the longer one and the charm on the shorter. The idea being the charm is less used than the watch and the longer chain used in removing and viewing the watch.
However... (isn't there always one?) if your charm is an old school pencil, cigar cutter, lighter, penknife, etc. it would make sense to keep this on the longer one. I just don't know..lol

I'd been inclined to agree with that. I know a chap who has a waistcoat that has a separate thin button hole slightly to the left of the main buttons. It's sole purpose to thread your chain through.

 

[Feraud]

Marc Chevalier posted a waistcoat with one additional buttonhole in between the usual line of holes. This was used for a watch chain.