Vintage Workwear

[Dinerman]

I can say it goes back to the late 1800s and was found then on many attached collar shirts, both for work and for dress purposes. It looks like a lot of the earlier examples of the detail were on thicker wool shirt-jacket type garments. Here's an example from 1896. The name "extension neck band" seems to imply that the double button is there so that it can be extended while still buttoned.

 

[herringbonekid]

...extended while still buttoned.

i'm not sure what you mean.

 

[Dinerman]

Buttoned on the second button to make it larger?

 

[herringbonekid]

Buttoned on the second button to make it larger?

well, that's all it can do really.

it just seems odd that none of the catalogues show a drawing of it in that position. usually the small functional details of garments are described in detail in the ad copy. here's a scan from Sears 1923 for the Hercules shirts. all it says regarding the extension neckband (7) is that it's 'built for service' which seems to imply that it's just a strengthening feature:

 

[Dinerman]

I've been looking through patents, too. Some of the earlier ads refer to patented versions of the neckband. Some patents do refer to a workshirt as having one, but only as a background detail while they discuss various pocket and yoke designs.

 

[Metatron]

I can say it goes back to the late 1800s and was found then on many attached collar shirts, both for work and for dress purposes. It looks like a lot of the earlier examples of the detail were on thicker wool shirt-jacket type garments. Here's an example from 1896. The name "extension neck band" seems to imply that the double button is there so that it can be extended while still buttoned.

I thought you might have the answer. That's it as far as I'm concerned. 'Extention neckband' the clue is in the name.
Perhaps it additionally caters to different neck sizes, if for example they were issued by a company to their employees en masse without bothering very much with the sizes.

 

[dh66]

I thought you might have the answer. That's it as far as I'm concerned. 'Extention neckband' the clue is in the name.
Perhaps it additionally caters to different neck sizes, if for example they were issued by a company to their employees en masse without bothering very much with the sizes.

Kind of the way modern mass produced dress shirts carry two buttons at the cuff, so you can adjust the length of the sleeve by buttoning it tighter on your wrist.

 

[Dinerman]

Kind of the way modern mass produced dress shirts carry two buttons at the cuff, so you can adjust the length of the sleeve by buttoning it tighter on your wrist.

I don't think that's it. These were offered in numbered neck sizes, so more accuracy in the sizing than today's S-M-L

 

[BobHufford]

Saw this posted by Ismael over on Denimbro.



Shows the more "relaxed" buttoning option.

Bob

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks for the photo !

i don't understand why that option for buttoning the neck isn't mentioned in period advertising (with a small diagram) if that's what it's intended for.

 

[Papperskatt]

i don't understand why that option for buttoning the neck isn't mentioned in period advertising (with a small diagram) if that's what it's intended for.

Maybe they were very used to it and thought that it was obvious back then, and didn't need mentioning. Like how they don't need to mention how to button the front.

 

[herringbonekid]

ok, it's official. this is from Montgomery Ward, Spring-Summer 1924.

"An extension neckband that can be worn tight or loose"

 

[Metatron]

Nice one HBK.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Picture by Russell Lee, 1938. Note the guy with the hat...or rather his collar.

Very nice discussion, guys. Honestly I didn't think too much about the "why" of chinstrap shirts. I just like them. It kinda makes sense now (but it also kinda doesn't haha)

 

[herringbonekid]

i haven't seen any of the repro workwear labels attempt one of these yet; 'auto style' flannel shirt. 'double front with continuous flap-over pockets':

Mackinaw 'stag' shirt with 'extra deep collar' ... which looks rather like an Eton or Peter Pan collar usually for young boys rather than workwear:

both from Charles Williams, 1918 catalogue.

 

[Dinerman]

I found this today

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I like their slogan. Wears like a pig's nose. The trousers on the left look really flared or do you assume it's the same exaggerated illustration like in collegiate pants?

Hbk the pocket shape of the first shirt looks interesting indeed. The second one doesn't work for me because of the reasons you already mentioned

 

[herringbonekid]

The second one doesn't work for me because of the reasons you already mentioned

i don't expect that one to see a revival either. another example from the 'this will never catch on' vault.

 

[simonc]

A years work wear just went live thanks for you support guys
Historical USA Denim 1920 - 1980 https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/989257464/sjc-pioneer-to-punk-made-from-japanese-selvedge-de

 

[Dinerman]

I like their slogan. Wears like a pig's nose. The trousers on the left look really flared or do you assume it's the same exaggerated illustration like in collegiate pants?

Hbk the pocket shape of the first shirt looks interesting indeed. The second one doesn't work for me because of the reasons you already mentioned

I think with the lace-up back, these probably were flared in real life, though I doubt as much as in the illustration. The collar on those mackinaw shirts reminds me a lot of what older mackinaw coat collars looked like when done up. Button a Woolrich 503 to the neck and you'll get a similar shape.