Vintage Workwear

[esteban68]

Just ordered a pair, thinking of dyeing them with an indigo dye?

 

[Rudie]

I am looking for detailed pictures of late 1920s to mid 1930s work trousers. No jeans, more European or British style in heavy cords, moleskin or similar. The pics should show enough details to give a tailor a clear picture how to do it. If you have measurements to go with the pictures that would be great also. The ones above that Fastuni sold to hbk are great, but I would prefer trousers that can be worn with a wide belt. A while ago I missed out on a NOS pair of 1920s/1930s French trousers in a heavy duck cotton that would have fit the bill. Unfortunately I didn't save the pics.

Thanks.

 

[herringbonekid]

i think i saved pics of the French trousers you're talking about, but they didn't have belt loops, they had brace buttons.

 

[Rudie]

Yes, I know. But they were so awesome I would take them anyway.

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[DamianM]

Very simple construction

 

[Rudie]

Thanks!

 

[herringbonekid]

here's some with belt loops:

 

[Dinerman]

Very simple construction

How do you figure?

 

[esteban68]

My latest Swedish surplus acquisition:
Deadstock 1960s work trousers.
Full cut and Pleated, buttons for braces.



Cinch back


Contrasting white stitching on the inside


These are more lightweight and soft than the olive green Swedish trousers, and should be comfortable through the Summer.
You can get them for around £15 on ebay Uk.

My pair arrived the other day, good quality and fit me well...just got to shorten then add a turn-up and dye them!

 

[Metatron]

What colour are you dyeing them?

 

[esteban68]

dark blue or indigo, not sure how dark brown would work which I also thought of..I've dyed stuff before and often the stitching doesn't take colour so I reckon a darker blue shade would be a good bet.

 

[Rudie]

On trousers like this, how wide would be the hem of the legs? What would be your guess on length of the fly and height of the rise? The rise looks very high if I am not mistaken?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Can you remember the waist size? You can estimate from there, on the photos. They do look rather high rise.


In my experience of trying to get people to reproduce vintage trousers, the trickiest is convincing them to utilise the correct proportion of the rise for the fly. They will tend to make a higher rise (say 12"), but with a normal length fly (4-5"), which renders it essentially non-functional.

What fabrics would you be looking t using? Some of your German cord? Or duck, moleskin etc.?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

They look pretty normal, except for the rear belt area, which may be using up bits and pieces of fabric to minimise waste. Other than that, trousers is trousers, costruction-wise.

Very simple construction

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, i could make a guess, but i would look at your Old Town High Rises and base your measurements around those.
they were based on a pair of old work trousers very similar to these, but British rather than French. i think Old Town have shortened the fly slightly; on those above i think it would be about 12" (just the fly... the total rise would be more).

edit: most of my high rise trousers are about 14" front and 19" rear measured flat from the crotch seam.
i'm 5'11 so as you're taller than me you'd need to add more accordingly.

 

[Rudie]

Can you remember the waist size? You can estimate from there, on the photos. They do look rather high rise.


In my experience of trying to get people to reproduce vintage trousers, the trickiest is convincing them to utilise the correct proportion of the rise for the fly. They will tend to make a higher rise (say 12"), but with a normal length fly (4-5"), which renders it essentially non-functional.

What fabrics would you be looking t using? Some of your German cord? Or duck, moleskin etc.?

I can't remember exactly, but I believe the waist was 33 or 34. From the pictures my impression was that both rise and fly are higher than on my Old Town trousers. The Old Towns measure 14" from the crotch seam and the fly is about 10". So for the new trousers I specified 17" rise from the crotch seam and 12" fly. Does that seem too much?

I am using the slightly less than 32oz. German workwear cord. It proved to bee too heavy to line the mackinaw with it, so my tailor used a much lighter but tightly woven cotton drill similar to the one used by Aero. Which works quite well. The mackinaw is fully wearable and functional right now. I can ride the bicycle without the wind going right through. He did an impressive job, sewing the lining in entirely by hand. He forgot to make the inside pocket with a button and used a modern YKK zip, though, but I don't mind much. He really did a great job with the lining. Today I went to Knopf Paul http://www.paulknopf.de/, a Berlin button shop, and bought some vintage buckles. Knopf is German for button. The owner's actual name is Paul Knopf.

What do you guys think about the hem? The Old Towns are 10", but I think the French ones are wider?

 

[herringbonekid]

So for the new trousers I specified 17" rise from the crotch seam and 12" fly. Does that seem too much?

What do you guys think about the hem? The Old Towns are 10", but I think the French ones are wider?

17" sounds high but depends on your height and length of torso. what back rise ?

there is no 'correct width' when it comes to hems. work trouser hems would vary from 8" to 11" depending on era, place of manufacture etc.
as you're getting a pair of trousers made you should use the opportunity to pick the hem width you prefer.

 

[Rudie]

I am 186cm with the torso a bit shorter than the legs (measured from the middle of the trochanter major). I did not specify a back rise yet. But it doesn't seem to be as steep as the Old Town's. To me those French trousers look as if they aren't as fitted as modern trousers or even the Old Town. The crotch seems to be sagging a bit, thus the higher rise. Am I right?

I asked for 11" hems but wasn't sure if that was at all common. Work trousers always seem to be narrower than dress trousers. Would 11" work for early to mid 30s?

 

[herringbonekid]

what i mean is: use the Old Towns as a starting point for measurements then add whatever extra you feel you need.

17" rise with 12" fly means 5" from bottom of fly to crotch seam which seems a bit much.

11" hem is perfect for early 30s.