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Vintage suit with weird inside "strap"?????

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Double-breasted jacket strap - the answer!

I have a very nice custom-made double-breasted jacket that I bought at a thrift store about a year ago. It has the same strap feature the LMH2 mentions --- I've been meaning to post it, as it's unusual, but sort of let it slide.

Anyway, my jacket has the same strap attached inside the left armpit. It extends down and across the abdomen, and is used to fasten the right-hand side of the jacket in place. It attaches to the button that normally fastens to the inside of the left hand side of the jacket. It works extremely well - when attached, the jacket can be unbuttoned, the left side can be opened and the right side stays perfectly in place. In addition, as there is no button on the inside of the left side of the jacket, when closed, the left side does not get pulled in or pucker.

On my jacket, the strap is a bit long for me - I assume this means the original owner had a bit more stomach. I shortened it slightly by folding it once and it fits perfectly. The jacket was made by Darzi, a Hong Kong tailor, in April 2000. I was lucky enough to score a single-breasted jacket at the same time, made for the same client, and they fit me perfectly.

Pictures to follow....
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
Double-breasted jacket strap - the answer!

I have a very nice custom-made double-breasted jacket that I bought at a thrift store about a year ago. It has the same strap feature the LMH2 mentions --- I've been meaning to post it, as it's unusual, but sort of let it slide.

Anyway, my jacket has the same strap attached inside the left armpit. It extends down and across the abdomen, and is used to fasten the right-hand side of the jacket in place. It attaches to the button that normally fastens to the inside of the left hand side of the jacket. It works extremely well - when attached, the jacket can be unbuttoned, the left side can be opened and the right side stays perfectly in place. In addition, as there is no button on the inside of the left side of the jacket, when closed, the left side does not get pulled in or pucker.

On my jacket, the strap is a bit long for me - I assume this means the original owner had a bit more stomach. I shortened it slightly by folding it once and it fits perfectly. The jacket was made by Darzi, a Hong Kong tailor, in April 2000. I was lucky enough to score a single-breasted jacket at the same time, made for the same client, and they fit me perfectly.

Pictures to follow....

Hello, I do wish that this strap did serve a similar purpose as the one you have. but here is what happens with that strap. This jacket fits me as if it were custom tailored for me. If I attempt to use the strap to reach any buttons no matter where they are located, the strap is so very short and will not reach any one of the buttons. Now my Wife is a very small gal, barely comes in at 100 pounds, and if she puts on the jacket, she "floats" inside of it, and again the strap is too short to go around her to attach to any buttons! LOL! So....geez, I just have no conclusive way to know what this strap does. Now it has an appearance that at one time it may have been doubled over to shorten it, but not sure who or if it was actually shortened? Same thread and looks like same workmanship and quality and thread used where this strap has some sewing done on it near the middle of it. However, I have sent an email to a tailor that has a vast reputation for being what is known as a grade 6 tailor, and from a family of tailors. If this person can tell me what the strap is for, I would take his word. If the strap is in fact a design to aide in closure and it does not actively function in that manner for me, I will carefully remove it and keep it in case someone I would sell the jacket to would desire it with the jacket. However, I love the jacket, for a vintage find I was simply amazed on the quality of material and overall design and how well it is made. I have spent a ton of money my entire life on nice jackets and suits, nothing comes close to this jacket. I was so very lucky to find such a wonderful jacket. Sheer luck!
Thanks so much for input on this. I will let everyone know if I find out what is ongoing with the strap. The end of it does appear to be made to go over a button on the closure for sure, so ??????
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
...The end of it does appear to be made to go over a button on the closure for sure, so ??????

I would guess that either the strap was shortened, or the button it was meant to be attached to was removed at some point. I'll post some photos of my jacket over the weekend.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
It's hard to be sure from the photos you posted, but the jacket looks more like an '80s suit to my eye.
You may be correct as I am not any expert. However, there is one thing I myself noticed and then two things I was told about this jacket for age or a good guess. The amount of thread count if you wanted to call it that, there is a lot of thread being used stitching wise, very tight and close to each other, more so than other jackets I have. I have a jacket brand name Lanvin that was purchased new around 1959 or so, family owned since new, an Ivory colored evening jacket. When I look at the thread count on that jacket, it is tight, close and a lot of thread being used per inch. My newer jackets by say, Versace, Hugo Boss, Palm Beach, Strafford, Brooks Brothers, have a far less thread count where sleeves or anything has been sewn together. That was my notice, but I was told by a tailor that the vintage age can be also viewed by the material tag, it does not say a mixture amount using numbers (70%wool 30%silk) which it does not clearly say that, it does say flat out wool then silk blend then rayon on three different lines. There is no woolmark on the material label, and no care instructions. I have no idea what years mean what when it comes to those things but I was told it means the jacket is old, vintage, pre 1960's. The way the material tag is and also on the bottom of the material tag it say Italy and not made in Italy, just Italy. According to the tailor, all those things being on the jacket (or that there is no material care tag) points to a time, but as I said, I have no clue and am not the expert on clothing at all. There is some clothing you could know is vintage by the feel of them (in my opinion) attached to the condition the material is in, and cut of it, some things would help you with that. But with this Jacket and it's overall condition and look, I think it is fairly old. Just very well kept.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
Could you post more photos of the front, back, interior and labels? That could give more to go on for helping to determine the suits age.
I will do that, my cell phone camera is not very detailed on the black, not sure if it is shine causing a problem or not, but I have someone visiting me this upcoming weekend, they may be able to help me get my good camera going, it has been on the blink for some time now, and if I can get it working properly, it will take some much better detailed pictures. I always love knowing about anything I own, what history I could find out about it, etc., so thanks!
 

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