Lauren
Distinguished Service Award
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- 5,060
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- Sunny California
I have this book. It's amazing. Granted, I haven't made one up yet, but it looks promising.
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Vintage suit patterns
- Thread starter Big Joe
- Start date
DanielJones
I'll Lock Up
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- 4,042
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- On the move again...
I finally found one...
I finally found a Vogue men's patter #2800. In my size no less.
It offers the option for a single or double brested coat. The one on the far left has the peaked lapels.
I posted some links to a few. Not too many left I'm afraid. But I'm sure there will be more later. Joy! Now I can get my own double brested blazer made. Just have to find the right material now.
Cheers!
Dan
I finally found a Vogue men's patter #2800. In my size no less.
It offers the option for a single or double brested coat. The one on the far left has the peaked lapels.
I posted some links to a few. Not too many left I'm afraid. But I'm sure there will be more later. Joy! Now I can get my own double brested blazer made. Just have to find the right material now.
Cheers!
Dan
Baron Kurtz
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 12,784
Purdue was having a library sale these last couple of days and i picked up a book from 1951 called Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way, by Clarence Poulin. On my first flip through i see there is at least a traditional-style waistcoat pattern. I'm hopeful that it also has high waisted trousers patterns. When i get home i'll scan the patterns in and thusly make them available to you all.
bk
p.s. anyone have experience with this book? Useful or no?
p.p.s. I'm sure it's probably illegal to scan and post these images, so don't tell anyone
bk
p.s. anyone have experience with this book? Useful or no?
p.p.s. I'm sure it's probably illegal to scan and post these images, so don't tell anyone
Baron Kurtz
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 12,784
p.p.p.s. I just noticed there are also some womens patterns in this book. Anyone interested in those???
Sin Khan
Familiar Face
- Messages
- 81
- Location
- Panama City, Florida
Not familiar with that book, but i'm sure it is great. I have 3 sewing and tailoring books now and between them all all i need now is a pattern book. All three of the books however have their patterns listed kind of in the create your own pattern kind of way. Although it is not stated i guess it is understood that you take measurments and just make your own pattern. Strange...
Baron Kurtz
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 12,784
Okay, i finally got around to scanning the patterns from the book "Tailoring Suits the Professional Way, by Clarence Poulin (1952):
Jacket Body:
Arms:
Waistcoat:
And trousers:
In the book there are instructions that correspond to these patterns (how to decide the distance between the numbers etc.). There is also a photo of the jacket that this jacket pattern will make. I'll try to list this later.
High resolution images are available at the following url. Each image is approx 10MB so will take a while to download:
http://homepage.mac.com/misskat0/
bk
Jacket Body:
Arms:
Waistcoat:
And trousers:
In the book there are instructions that correspond to these patterns (how to decide the distance between the numbers etc.). There is also a photo of the jacket that this jacket pattern will make. I'll try to list this later.
High resolution images are available at the following url. Each image is approx 10MB so will take a while to download:
http://homepage.mac.com/misskat0/
bk
Baron Kurtz
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 12,784
Also, though these are from rather an earlier period, maybe someone's interested?
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1898cuttersguide9a.htm
bk
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1898cuttersguide9a.htm
bk
Lauren
Distinguished Service Award
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- 5,060
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- Sunny California
Thank you for posting those! That's great!
Matt Deckard
Man of Action
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- 10,045
Awsome
IndianaGuybrush
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 232
Now, does anyone know what to do with those?
Matt Deckard
Man of Action
- Messages
- 10,045
I think I have a few tailors that can take a look at these.
http://www.costumes.org/history/100p...ersguide9a.htm
http://www.costumes.org/history/100p...ersguide9a.htm
Baron Kurtz
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 12,784
Let's say you wanted your tailor to make you a SB pointed lapel dinner jacket. Take him the image below and see what he can do:
Or jump right in with a sewing machine and have a go!!!! :cheers1:
bk
Or jump right in with a sewing machine and have a go!!!! :cheers1:
bk
Hi everybody!
Thanks for letting me in!
Some thoughts about tailoring. True tailoring has thousands of hand stitches. Machine stitching is almost completely straight stitch. Some will do a little bit of zig-zag. Some will use a serger (overcast) to keep the edges from raveling. Computerized sewing machines, as far as I know, are still junk. So, many tailors only have a mechinical sewing machine, which are fast.
Collars on tailored coats are completely hand sewn, and may have over 1,400 stitches. Better tailors hand stitch the shoulders and hand sew in the sleeves. The bottom edges of jackets and there sleeves are also hand sewn. And, then the button holes are hand sewn, too. The lapels and chest area are hand pad stitched to give good shape. It prorbably takes and experiance tailor about 40 hours to make a coat.
Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) by Roberto Cabrera, Patricia Flaherty Meyers
Tailoring Suits the Professional Way, by Clarence Poulin Patterns are good. Like all, they need some adaptions to your body. He has a newer book (197?) with newer coat pattern for men, a skirt pattern for women, and a coat pattern for women.
How to Make Mens Clothes, by Jane Rhinehart (an inspirational book - 'Can Do' attitude) Her pants pattern is the most comfortable pattern I've ever made, thought the top of the back may need some changes. And, you may need some posture changes, as with any pattern. The construction of the pants are harder to do than either of the other two books, but perhaps the nices. Some of her coat construction ideas I like more than Poulins.
http://www.tailorandcutter.co.uk/ has been the door into the trade for many people around the world for more than a 100 years. They have a correspondence class which works really nice with digital camera, email and the internet, nowadays. Some of the lessons, though not all, come from the book Classic Tailoring Techniques... With Tailor & Cutter comes basic pattern for coat, vest and trousers. There vest pattern and construction is much better than anything I've seen in a book. This class can take along time (I think they are understaffed). They also have a Cutter class, which deals with patterns. If you take this class buy the kit, because it is very hard in the US to find all that you need.
Store bought patterns can have seriouse problem and be way off, not to mention forget some parts. One person I know tried a bought pattern that had lots of problems. Some tailors will make you a pattern for a price (good luck in finding a real tailor).
New tailors start with a basic pattern, which over time gets changed until they have there own methods. Either way, a basic pattern can be altered into many other patterns, styles and fashions. And the ingredients of a jacket can be changed to get the effect you like. It is a great hobby if you have the time, space and connections. All tailors, they began like you- unable to sew.
Thanks for letting me in!
Some thoughts about tailoring. True tailoring has thousands of hand stitches. Machine stitching is almost completely straight stitch. Some will do a little bit of zig-zag. Some will use a serger (overcast) to keep the edges from raveling. Computerized sewing machines, as far as I know, are still junk. So, many tailors only have a mechinical sewing machine, which are fast.
Collars on tailored coats are completely hand sewn, and may have over 1,400 stitches. Better tailors hand stitch the shoulders and hand sew in the sleeves. The bottom edges of jackets and there sleeves are also hand sewn. And, then the button holes are hand sewn, too. The lapels and chest area are hand pad stitched to give good shape. It prorbably takes and experiance tailor about 40 hours to make a coat.
Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) by Roberto Cabrera, Patricia Flaherty Meyers
Tailoring Suits the Professional Way, by Clarence Poulin Patterns are good. Like all, they need some adaptions to your body. He has a newer book (197?) with newer coat pattern for men, a skirt pattern for women, and a coat pattern for women.
How to Make Mens Clothes, by Jane Rhinehart (an inspirational book - 'Can Do' attitude) Her pants pattern is the most comfortable pattern I've ever made, thought the top of the back may need some changes. And, you may need some posture changes, as with any pattern. The construction of the pants are harder to do than either of the other two books, but perhaps the nices. Some of her coat construction ideas I like more than Poulins.
http://www.tailorandcutter.co.uk/ has been the door into the trade for many people around the world for more than a 100 years. They have a correspondence class which works really nice with digital camera, email and the internet, nowadays. Some of the lessons, though not all, come from the book Classic Tailoring Techniques... With Tailor & Cutter comes basic pattern for coat, vest and trousers. There vest pattern and construction is much better than anything I've seen in a book. This class can take along time (I think they are understaffed). They also have a Cutter class, which deals with patterns. If you take this class buy the kit, because it is very hard in the US to find all that you need.
Store bought patterns can have seriouse problem and be way off, not to mention forget some parts. One person I know tried a bought pattern that had lots of problems. Some tailors will make you a pattern for a price (good luck in finding a real tailor).
New tailors start with a basic pattern, which over time gets changed until they have there own methods. Either way, a basic pattern can be altered into many other patterns, styles and fashions. And the ingredients of a jacket can be changed to get the effect you like. It is a great hobby if you have the time, space and connections. All tailors, they began like you- unable to sew.
Tailor Tom
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 131
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Adding my bit
I saw this older post and thought I would try to shed a little light on the subject.
One of the main reasons you do not find vintage men’s suit patterns is, quite simple, that they don’t exist.
Let me quantify this a bit: When you used to order a suit, you ordered a single suit or several at a time if your budget allowed, they were fabricated one at a time. Since each and every client was individually catered to, there was never a need for patterns for the masses.
The tailor would take the customers measurements and draw directly on the fabric (reverse side), sometimes using a basic sloper and then adjusting it as needed, but mostly not. There is a great scene in the movie “The Tailor of Panama” that depicts this very thing, even if they took dramatic license with it.
If a tailor had a good client, that re-ordered often, then he would most likely invest in a pattern for that individual. Sometimes one can find these patterns with client info on them, but many times, as clients passed on, or perhaps if new management came in, these patterns were then thrown out. Some of the great Houses (with their individual styles) hold their client’s patterns forever and so, they are never released to the public.
Tailors learned patterning methods involving formulas that were based upon a clients body dimensions. This took into account each clients height, weight, body type, chest, shoulders, waist, hips, neck, sleeve, inseam, etc to create the basic sloper (pattern) for the client. This pattern could then be manipulated into various forms and fashion trends of the day (single/double breasted, lapel width, assorted fashion backs, etc.).
For those who attended a trade school (a trend that began mainly after WWII in the US), they were taught those patterning formulas, and had reference guides to assist them. It is those guides that one should truly seek out. These guides showed how to come up with a basic pant, coats pattern. But, they also showed how to formulate patterns for stout figures, riding breeches, jodhpurs, top coats, tailcoats, shirts, vests, etc.
I use similar formulas & draw patterns for each client, as opposed to directly on the fabric, so I can maintain the pattern in the client file, and use them as references as to what we did previously. A typical client, for example, can have a suit pattern with the same back and yet both single and double breasted fronts, plain and pleated trousers, vests, etc. This takes more time up front, and the tailor is banking on the client placing future orders to make up for the added patterning time, but in the long run it is worth it and makes subsequent orders go smoother.
Hope this helps explain the lack of men's patterns available to the public.
I saw this older post and thought I would try to shed a little light on the subject.
One of the main reasons you do not find vintage men’s suit patterns is, quite simple, that they don’t exist.
Let me quantify this a bit: When you used to order a suit, you ordered a single suit or several at a time if your budget allowed, they were fabricated one at a time. Since each and every client was individually catered to, there was never a need for patterns for the masses.
The tailor would take the customers measurements and draw directly on the fabric (reverse side), sometimes using a basic sloper and then adjusting it as needed, but mostly not. There is a great scene in the movie “The Tailor of Panama” that depicts this very thing, even if they took dramatic license with it.
If a tailor had a good client, that re-ordered often, then he would most likely invest in a pattern for that individual. Sometimes one can find these patterns with client info on them, but many times, as clients passed on, or perhaps if new management came in, these patterns were then thrown out. Some of the great Houses (with their individual styles) hold their client’s patterns forever and so, they are never released to the public.
Tailors learned patterning methods involving formulas that were based upon a clients body dimensions. This took into account each clients height, weight, body type, chest, shoulders, waist, hips, neck, sleeve, inseam, etc to create the basic sloper (pattern) for the client. This pattern could then be manipulated into various forms and fashion trends of the day (single/double breasted, lapel width, assorted fashion backs, etc.).
For those who attended a trade school (a trend that began mainly after WWII in the US), they were taught those patterning formulas, and had reference guides to assist them. It is those guides that one should truly seek out. These guides showed how to come up with a basic pant, coats pattern. But, they also showed how to formulate patterns for stout figures, riding breeches, jodhpurs, top coats, tailcoats, shirts, vests, etc.
I use similar formulas & draw patterns for each client, as opposed to directly on the fabric, so I can maintain the pattern in the client file, and use them as references as to what we did previously. A typical client, for example, can have a suit pattern with the same back and yet both single and double breasted fronts, plain and pleated trousers, vests, etc. This takes more time up front, and the tailor is banking on the client placing future orders to make up for the added patterning time, but in the long run it is worth it and makes subsequent orders go smoother.
Hope this helps explain the lack of men's patterns available to the public.
Mr Mueller
New in Town
- Messages
- 18
- Location
- Richmond, VA
Makes perfect sense. I spent summers in college working in a theatrical costume shop as a patternmaker and sometimes tailor, and most of what I kept around were very basic slopers that I would then make a muslin jacket mockup out of. The mockup was always roomy, and I pinned, drew on, cut, and shaped the jacket into existence on the body. I did, of course, transfer these alterations to a paper pattern, but never necessarily kept them as the next jacket would be different. I just kept the slopers.
habberdasher
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 369
- Location
- Mt Pleasant, SC
Does anyone know a good site for vintage sewing patterns for suits? I've only found mostly woman vintage patterns and the mens suit ones I did find were 70s leisure suits. Also actual suits from the era may be pretty worn out and expensive, so I'm thinking of making one instead. I'm looking for 30s-40s. Thanks
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Wash In Lux
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 177
- Location
- Lockhart, Texas
You'll probably end up paying anywhere from 6 to 20 times more for somebody to make you a suit vice buying vintage; especially if you're wanting something out of the ordinary. I'm assuming you're talking 30's-40's. There's plenty in good and great condition out there. You just gotta look. Yes there are people that try to get a pretty penny for an average suit but, there's a lot that go for what I consider pretty cheap; especially compared to Macy's or having one made. I just sold a gray gabardine 3 button suit on the FL for $65. It was in very nice condition. I've sold A LOT of suits over the years and only those that were unique (by today's standards - belt back for example) went for more than $100.
Anyhow, I've a lot of patterns as well and while it's possible I may have come across one, I don't remember having one or ever seeing a men's suit pattern. There's a lot to making a suit and you've got to remember that mom's and wives were primarily the ones buying patterns and making things. While some of them may have been quite skilled, I think even the poor fellas probably saved for suit from a mens store or bought one second hand.
I've got a bunch of sports coat patterns but, they're all pretty basic construction.
A few weeks ago, I had an auction for early 40's blue DB suit. It went to Japan for a whopping $31! I think it's a good time to be a buyer right now.
Anyhow, I've a lot of patterns as well and while it's possible I may have come across one, I don't remember having one or ever seeing a men's suit pattern. There's a lot to making a suit and you've got to remember that mom's and wives were primarily the ones buying patterns and making things. While some of them may have been quite skilled, I think even the poor fellas probably saved for suit from a mens store or bought one second hand.
I've got a bunch of sports coat patterns but, they're all pretty basic construction.
A few weeks ago, I had an auction for early 40's blue DB suit. It went to Japan for a whopping $31! I think it's a good time to be a buyer right now.
habberdasher
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 369
- Location
- Mt Pleasant, SC
The only problem is I'm a really small size and the smallest I've found is a 38. I guess you're right, the prices are actually pretty cheap. I'm just really specific in what I want too, like a black/white pinstripe double breasted vest with single breasted, peaked lapel, belted back. It is hard to sew a suit, but my mom sewed a pretty good sport coat from a pattern, but you're right; something to my specifications would be really challenging. I'll keep on looking for patterns but also look into vintage. Are thrift stores good to find 30s-40s suits? I just don't really think there are clean clothes there, old, dirty suits clumped together in some 40 year old building...
Tailor Tom
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 131
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
check out earlier post
The pattern question existed prior to your posting.
check out http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4491
I gave a pretty good description as to why there are no vintage patterns.
hope this helps ease the loss for lack of patterns.
The pattern question existed prior to your posting.
check out http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4491
I gave a pretty good description as to why there are no vintage patterns.
hope this helps ease the loss for lack of patterns.
habberdasher
A-List Customer
- Messages
- 369
- Location
- Mt Pleasant, SC
Thanks, that's very helpful. But how come there are so may woman's patterns from the 20s-60s? Did they just not go to tailors? Do you think I could take an existing suit pattern I have (a modern 2-button, notched lapel, just mainstream) and change it a bit, like make a wider, peaked lapel, a thinner waist, broader shoulders, belted back, etc? Or is that too big of a task?
