Vintage short wool jackets

[ton312]

Interior doesn’t look like a vintage piece as the seams would’ve been flat felled. The wool does look like the old wools. Your jacket reminds me very much of the stuff from Black Sign, which makes some great repro pieces. But I don’t recall them ever using repro labels. Tough call. I wish I could wear the originals. They are extremely short in the body and sleeve, especially the sleeves, which always seem to measure 23”… shorter than the leather counterparts actually.

Do you guys know anything about the ACME brand? Is it really a vintage brand or a Japanese repro? Mind you, I have limited knowledge on repro stuff because I'm not into them much. The reason I ask is because I've got this wool work jacket with that label. And I can't find anything about this brand online besides the fact that it was a fictional corp from the Road Runner animation lolol.

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The jacket has a Talon sunburst zipper with a 40s slider. At the bottom, it reads A-2 which I believe to be January 1942. But the thing is that the zipper looks very clean. There was no verdigris when I got this jacket. And this thing slides smooth as hell, like a baby's ass lolol.

So either I'm extremely lucky or I've just got myself a repro lololol. I know that the Japanese do make repro zippers. But I might be wrong. Again, I don't know much about repro stuff. Any input is highly appreciated.

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[Nacho]

Interior doesn’t look like a vintage piece as the seams would’ve been flat felled. The wool does look like the old wools. Your jacket reminds me very much of the stuff from Black Sign, which makes some great repro pieces. But I don’t recall them ever using repro labels. Tough call. I wish I could wear the originals. They are extremely short in the body and sleeve, especially the sleeves, which always seem to measure 23”… shorter than the leather counterparts actually.

Thanks, Ton. I appreciate it.

Yes, the sleeves measure exactly 23". The back length is 23.5". Nice and short for me lol.

 

[ton312]

So those numbers make me think it’s an original. Either way, it’s cool!

Thanks, Ton. I appreciate it.

Yes, the sleeves measure exactly 23". The back length is 23.5". Nice and short for me lol.

 

[Nacho]

So those numbers make me think it’s an original. Either way, it’s cool!

My man!

Looking good in that wool western and flare bottom jeans today, Ton. Very 70s.

 

[Nacho]

Another one for the archive. Montgomery Ward with spring-loaded Crown zipper.

Mint zipper. Beautiful colorway. And really baggy sleeves. Wool isn't as thick as the black ACME one, but real comfortable once you're in it.

Wonder who made these for Wards?

 

[Nacho]

Union-made by Shanhouse from Rockford, Illinois. I have seen Shanhouse leathers, but never short woolies. I believe Himel based his Canuck on Shanhouse work jacket.

Spring-loaded Crown, diamond pull and two-button cinches. No half belt though. It would have been nice if it has a half belt there, but it still has that V-taper silhouette that the half belt creates.

This dude also has bartacks at the corners of the pockets. Something that we've seen in denim garments, but was utilized here to prevent the wool from tearing at high stress areas. In addition to that, the cuff is lined with extra fabric to further protect the wool there. And the buttons are very good looking, certainly more attractive than plain black buttons we've seen in other woolies. This dude is surely premium.

The wool is mid weight, very warm and cozy to wear. No holes, no pilling, no issues, nada. This one is in better shape than the Ward above. The Ward woolie has some thinning at the pits that I'm still figuring out how to darn those.

 

[Nacho]

Bartacks

Buttons

(the cinches are lined with, I believe, satin rayon)

Cuffs

 

[ton312]

Bartacks

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Buttons

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(the cinches are lined with, I believe, satin rayon)

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Cuffs

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Fairly harsh color combo but a cool design. The material looks closer to flannel.

 

[Nacho]

Fairly harsh color combo but a cool design. The material looks closer to flannel.

The colour combo is definitely bright, very different from some of the vintage woolies I've seen. But I love it. It mixes well if your outfit is all black or monochromatic, making the jacket the center of attention.

You might be right. The material here does look more fibrous, doesn't it? But it's certainly itchy like wool. Maybe a wool-blended material?

Do you know much about Shanhouse since they were from your home state, Ton?

 

[ton312]

The colour combo is definitely bright, very different from some of the vintage woolies I've seen. But I love it though. It mixes well if you outfit is all black.

You might be right. The material here does look more fibrous, doesn't it? But it's certainly itchy like wool lol.

Do you know much about Shanhouse since they were from your home state, Ton?

I don't. I have seen a few leathers but no textiles.

 

[Nacho]

I don't. I have seen a few leathers but no textiles.

Likewise. This is the first for me. I've seen a few Shanhouse leathers, but never handled one though.

 

[tmitchell59]

I've seen a couple of wools for sale recently. One was a wool blend. That back belting is typical for Shanhouse. I have one of their leather jackets. Another just showed up on ebay.

 

[Nacho]

I've seen a couple of wools for sale recently. One was a wool blend. That back belting is typical for Shanhouse. I have one of their leather jackets. Another just showed up on ebay.

You’re right about the back belting. This is the back of the Himel Canuck.

 

[Nacho]

I've finally finished sewing new buttons for this wool x leather sweater. Really enjoyed the whole process. Nice skill to add to the repertoire. Couldn't find a thread for sweaters so might as well post it here.

BEFORE

AFTER

 

[photo2u]

Union-made by Shanhouse from Rockford, Illinois. I have seen Shanhouse leathers, but never short woolies. I believe Himel based his Canuck on Shanhouse work jacket.

Spring-loaded Crown, diamond pull and two-button cinches. No half belt though. It would have been nice if it has a half belt there, but it still has that V-taper silhouette that the half belt creates.

This dude also has bartacks at the corners of the pockets. Something that we've seen in denim garments, but was utilized here to prevent the wool from tearing at high stress areas. In addition to that, the cuff is lined with extra fabric to further protect the wool there. And the buttons are very good looking, certainly more attractive than plain black buttons we've seen in other woolies. This dude is surely premium.

The wool is mid weight, very warm and cozy to wear. No holes, no pilling, no issues, nada. This one is in better shape than the Ward above. The Ward woolie has some thinning at the pits that I'm still figuring out how to darn those.

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Love the jackets. Please keep us posted in way to repair those moth holes. I have several I need to do in my green and red plaid wool shirts.

 

[Nacho]

Love the jackets. Please keep us posted in way to repair those moth holes. I have several I need to do in my green and red plaid wool shirts.

Thank you. I really like them.

Just to clarify, the MW doesn't have moth holes. The wool at one of the pits is thinning due to, what I believe, rubbing from previous owner(s). You can't see it visually, but you can feel it when you put your fingers there.

I do, however, have another woolie that has some moth holes. Still figuring out how to mend those. Will post pics here once I do. Stay tuned!

 

[Nacho]

Fixed up a couple of moth holes in one of my woolies. I'm nowhere a professional mender, but this is how I'd do it with a basic sewing kit at home. It's quite simple.

Hopefully, it'll help others without wasting time and money at your local tailor. Not that there is anything wrong with it. You do you!

Since this is such a small hole, I opted for nylon thread instead of wool yarn. But if the hole is bigger, I'll definitely go for the wool. Nylon has more tensile strength than regular cotton so it's a better choice here.

We'll work from the outside of the jacket. I'll start with puncturing the needle from the inside out . And the back knot will hold the thread in place.

Next, I'd go around the moth hole, puncture from the outside in, and come back somewhere above the first needle hole.

I then repeat the process until the thread covers the moth hole. In my case, I started from the bottom and work my way up. Once I reached the top, I worked from the top to bottom again. The reason is because the wool is thick while the nylon isn't. So you'd want to repeat as many times as you need to match the thickness of the original wool.

Once you've finished, you'd want to push the thread to the inside of the jacket to tie the finishing knot. After tying the knot, I'd go an extra step that is to burn it. The reason is because the nylon will turn into this sticky goo when burned. You can then press it down and that goo will spread out and stick to the wool. I find that locks the thread better than just a tying knot. Below is the picture. Notice the white speck on the right, that is that goo once it's cool and dried out.

Here is the finishing product. Not the best colour match, but that's all I've got. Besides, I don't mind a little mismatching here and there. It gives the jacket a little character.

The second hole with black thread is better though.

Hope this helps. If you have any better idea, feel free to chime in.

 

[tmitchell59]

Fixed up a couple of moth holes in one of my woolies. I'm nowhere a professional mender, but this is how I'd do it with a basic sewing kit at home. It's quite simple.

Hopefully, it'll help others without wasting time and money at your local tailor. Not that there is anything wrong with it. You do you!

View attachment 582083

Since this is such a small hole, I opted for nylon thread instead of wool yarn. But if the hole is bigger, I'll definitely go for the wool. Nylon has more tensile strength than regular cotton so it's a better choice here.

We'll work from the outside of the jacket. I'll start with puncturing the needle from the inside out . And the back knot will hold the thread in place.

View attachment 582086

Next, I'd go around the moth hole, puncture from the outside in, and come back somewhere above the first needle hole.

View attachment 582087

I then repeat the process until the thread covers the moth hole. In my case, I started from the bottom and work my way up. Once I reached the top, I worked from the top to bottom again. The reason is because the wool is thick while the nylon isn't. So you'd want to repeat as many times as you need to match the thickness of the original wool.

View attachment 582091

Once you've finished, you'd want to push the thread to the inside of the jacket to tie the finishing knot. After tying the knot, I'd go an extra step that is to burn it. The reason is because the nylon will turn into this sticky goo when burned. You can then press it down and that goo will spread out and stick to the wool. I find that locks the thread better than just a tying knot. Below is the picture. Notice the white speck on the right, that is that goo once it's cool and dried out.

View attachment 582095

Here is the finishing product. Not the best colour match, but that's all I've got. Besides, I don't mind a little mismatching here and there. It gives the jacket a little character.

The second hole with black thread is better though.

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Hope this helps. If you have any better idea, feel free to chime in.

Thanks for posting this do it yourself. I have a few pieces to mend . this helps me get going

 

[AHP91]

Fixed up a couple of moth holes in one of my woolies. I'm nowhere a professional mender, but this is how I'd do it with a basic sewing kit at home. It's quite simple.

Hopefully, it'll help others without wasting time and money at your local tailor. Not that there is anything wrong with it. You do you!

View attachment 582083

Since this is such a small hole, I opted for nylon thread instead of wool yarn. But if the hole is bigger, I'll definitely go for the wool. Nylon has more tensile strength than regular cotton so it's a better choice here.

We'll work from the outside of the jacket. I'll start with puncturing the needle from the inside out . And the back knot will hold the thread in place.

View attachment 582086

Next, I'd go around the moth hole, puncture from the outside in, and come back somewhere above the first needle hole.

View attachment 582087

I then repeat the process until the thread covers the moth hole. In my case, I started from the bottom and work my way up. Once I reached the top, I worked from the top to bottom again. The reason is because the wool is thick while the nylon isn't. So you'd want to repeat as many times as you need to match the thickness of the original wool.

View attachment 582091

Once you've finished, you'd want to push the thread to the inside of the jacket to tie the finishing knot. After tying the knot, I'd go an extra step that is to burn it. The reason is because the nylon will turn into this sticky goo when burned. You can then press it down and that goo will spread out and stick to the wool. I find that locks the thread better than just a tying knot. Below is the picture. Notice the white speck on the right, that is that goo once it's cool and dried out.

View attachment 582095

Here is the finishing product. Not the best colour match, but that's all I've got. Besides, I don't mind a little mismatching here and there. It gives the jacket a little character.

The second hole with black thread is better though.

View attachment 582100
View attachment 582101

Hope this helps. If you have any better idea, feel free to chime in.

Take that garment to a professional, big dog. Worth spending a couple of them Canadian bills for a proper job

 

[Nacho]

Take that garment to a professional, big dog. Worth spending a couple of them Canadian bills for a proper job

You’ve been watching my Instagram stories, haven’t you? Not everybody has the time and money to send stuff to a pro all the time. Btw, you’re missing a period on the last sentence.