Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[yellowfever]

I've thought about a thread called Jacket Porn with a less erotic title. Just picture after picture.

I bought this Californian last night. To me, this is a great find even in this condition. I'm thinking this Calfskin is so unique and so much like a Sears Topline it will say they were both made by California Sportswear Co.

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That would be great, though maybe not for my sleep patterns! I was trying to think of a less salacious name too, but gave up... jacket lust? Jacket desire? Dream jackets? Anyway my mind is just too addled from seeing all these wonderful pictures to find suitable inspiration!

That Californian is epic, love the snap closing handwarmer pockets and the old Talon zip, but possibly my favourite thing is the Armstrong’s lable stating “quality is economy”. Great marketing, but also a sentiment I suspect many of us here would agree with. Even if we then go out and ruin it by buying loads more jackets, despite having already bought one of such quality it will last beyond our lifetimes.... let’s just call them investments

And as to the condition, from the pictures I’d call that (mostly) just killer patina...

 

[yellowfever]

Well, to continue feeding my addiction to ogling dream jackets and to also further my education and enhance my reference resources, I bought another book on vintage jackets. It was just under €40 including the postage and a small discount for signing up to their email list, so not exactly a bargain for a soft back, but it was delivered promptly and well packed in tissue paper and then a sturdy box covered in fragile stickers. It’s a nice A4 size and a fair bit cheaper than other sources for those of us in the EU at least... According to reviews it’s picture heavy which is just as well as it’s limited text is mostly in Japanese. From a quick skim I find it a very worthwhile addition. If you’re interested here’s the link I bought my copy from:

https://bulangandsons.com/products/vintage-leather-jacket?_pos=1&_sid=d275c5a8a&_ss=r

 

[tmitchell59]

Well, to continue feeding my addiction to ogling dream jackets and to also further my education and enhance my reference resources, I bought another book on vintage jackets. It was just under €40 including the postage and a small discount for signing up to their email list, so not exactly a bargain for a soft back, but it was delivered promptly and well packed in tissue paper and then a sturdy box covered in fragile stickers. It’s a nice A4 size and a fair bit cheaper than other sources for those of us in the EU at least... According to reviews it’s picture heavy which is just as well as it’s limited text is mostly in Japanese. From a quick skim I find it a very worthwhile addition. If you’re interested here’s the link I bought my copy from:

https://bulangandsons.com/products/vintage-leather-jacket?_pos=1&_sid=d275c5a8a&_ss=r

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I ordered this one from yahoo auctions in December. The book was cheap the shipping was not. I opted for slow mail and I continue to wait.

I have both Rin Tanaka books and his Schott book. I may have the same book you posted in a ebook. It would guess most of the same jackets are in each book, maybe one or two different. There is some inaccurate information in the ebook. I don't recall what it was, mis-identified jacket, something like that.

I have thought about doing ebooks just to get my information in some order. The Sears Motorcycle History thread here was a start. I have lots of chapters ready to be written and illustrated.

Sears leather jackets 1930 through 1963 Illustrated History

Ralphs-Pugh Illustrated History 1935-1955

Catalog Jackets; Windward, Sportclad

Labels; labels by era-dating labels

California Sportswear Company Illustrated History

Bay area leather makers; Ralphs-Pugh, Block-Bilt, Taubers, leather garment company, etc

American Deerskin makers list

Police jacket/uniform makers list

List of makers

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[Cornelius]

I ordered this one from yahoo auctions in December. The book was cheap the shipping was not. I opted for slow mail and I continue to wait.

I have both Rin Tanaka books and his Schott book. I may have the same book you posted in a ebook. It would guess most of the same jackets are in each book, maybe one or two different. There is some inaccurate information in the ebook. I don't recall what it was, mis-identified jacket, something like that.

I have thought about doing ebooks just to get my information in some order. The Sears Motorcycle History thread here was a start. I have lots of chapters ready to be written and illustrated.

Sears leather jackets 1930 through 1963 Illustrated History

Ralphs-Pugh Illustrated History 1935-1955

Catalog Jackets; Windward, Sportclad

Labels; labels by era-dating labels

California Sportswear Company Illustrated History

Bay area leather makers; Ralphs-Pugh, Block-Bilt, Taubers, leather garment company, etc

American Deerskin makers list

Police jacket/uniform makers list

List of makers

Love this idea. There are obviously many photographers here on the FL with seemingly Pro skills, perhaps solicit a collaboration?

 

[powerserge]

I ordered this one from yahoo auctions in December. The book was cheap the shipping was not. I opted for slow mail and I continue to wait.

I have both Rin Tanaka books and his Schott book. I may have the same book you posted in a ebook. It would guess most of the same jackets are in each book, maybe one or two different. There is some inaccurate information in the ebook. I don't recall what it was, mis-identified jacket, something like that.

I have thought about doing ebooks just to get my information in some order. The Sears Motorcycle History thread here was a start. I have lots of chapters ready to be written and illustrated.

Sears leather jackets 1930 through 1963 Illustrated History

Ralphs-Pugh Illustrated History 1935-1955

Catalog Jackets; Windward, Sportclad

Labels; labels by era-dating labels

California Sportswear Company Illustrated History

Bay area leather makers; Ralphs-Pugh, Block-Bilt, Taubers, leather garment company, etc

American Deerskin makers list

Police jacket/uniform makers list

List of makers

This sounds like such a good idea! I’m sure if you started a gofundme you could get some funding to get the project going. I’m sure a lot of us on here would contribute...at least I would

 

[tmitchell59]

Sears leather jackets 1930 through 1963 Illustrated History

I could do this now, break it down by decade 30s, 40s, 50s. Same format as the Sears MC jackets. Original catalog pics/descriptions with a contemporary picture of the jacket when available. I have lots of pictures of my jackets and others I have harvested. Sears sold a huge variety of jackets. The 50s would be easiest. The 30s would be a focus for style and development of the jacket. Sears catalogs document popular fashion quite well. They sold very fine leather jackets in the 30s. Although you can't have the jacket in your hand you can see and read how the jacket styles evolved over time. I have a nice supply of jackets from this era for close examination.

I need to learn or acquire what ever to do something like the ebook format. Doing something in a thread format does not interest me. I want somethin organic, interactive, but not sure how to achieve such.

I don't lack material. I have thousands of pictures, hundreds of jackets, bits and pieces of information, theories, ideas, facts. I'm just looking for some place to put it or how best to share it.

 

[yellowfever]

I ordered this one from yahoo auctions in December. The book was cheap the shipping was not. I opted for slow mail and I continue to wait.

I have both Rin Tanaka books and his Schott book. I may have the same book you posted in a ebook. It would guess most of the same jackets are in each book, maybe one or two different. There is some inaccurate information in the ebook. I don't recall what it was, mis-identified jacket, something like that.

I have thought about doing ebooks just to get my information in some order. The Sears Motorcycle History thread here was a start. I have lots of chapters ready to be written and illustrated.

Sears leather jackets 1930 through 1963 Illustrated History

Ralphs-Pugh Illustrated History 1935-1955

Catalog Jackets; Windward, Sportclad

Labels; labels by era-dating labels

California Sportswear Company Illustrated History

Bay area leather makers; Ralphs-Pugh, Block-Bilt, Taubers, leather garment company, etc

American Deerskin makers list

Police jacket/uniform makers list

List of makers

What a wonderful idea, I for one would love to have such ebooks...

It’s nice to have the hard copy reference books, but ebooks are cheaper to produce, distribute and buy (not to mention have no shipping costs), are easier to search in and you can zoom in on photos for finer details...

And given the limited books currently available (good and fascinating though they are) have limited text (often in Japanese!), and are not always the most rigorously and logically organised with their material, there is a niche here to be filled I’m sure.

Chapters oganised by brand with the evolution of styles and clear pictures of labels over the years would be great...

 

[tmitchell59]

This video has a good look at the outstanding leather on the Kurland/Sportclad Motorcycle jacket compared to a few others. I've got to do a new one, I've lost a few in this video, but gained a few more that haven't been shown.

 

[JMax]

This video has a good look at the outstanding leather on the Kurland/Sportclad Motorcycle jacket compared to a few others. I've got to do a new one, I've lost a few in this video, but gained a few more that haven't been shown.

It would be cool to continue to build on the dedicated threads to Wards, Sportclad, etc. jackets. Like the Sears thread. They are out there. Your Sportclad D pocket burrowed itself into my mind some time ago. Glad I finally found one that may work for me.

 

[tmitchell59]

It would be cool to continue to build on the dedicated threads to Wards, Sportclad, etc. jackets. Like the Sears thread. They are out there.

Yes, catalog jackets from late 40s to 1960. That would cover the Wards and Penney jackets. We may make another connection with makers and labels.

I have focused on Bay area/West Coast, the Boston area was also a hot bed of leather jacket makers. Knopf, Wolfe, Kurland.

 

[JMax]

Yes, catalog jackets from late 40s to 1960. That would cover the Wards and Penney jackets. We may make another connection with makers and labels.

I have focused on Bay area/West Coast, the Boston area was also a hot bed of leather jacket makers. Knopf, Wolfe, Kurland.

I have been looking for Guidemaster and Knopf in my size range at a good price. Alas, most are too small. Or overpriced, like the Knopf on Etsy. But you are right, they just look special when you look at them. I’m also looking for a Lawrence. @Gamma68 perfecto Lawrence looks incredible.

I think I’ve moved off contemporary makers and am focusing on upper tier vintage. There is just something special about them. And when you find one in great condition, there is nothing like it. Even if the fit is not “perfect”. You may have created a mini-TM!

 

[yellowfever]

This video has a good look at the outstanding leather on the Kurland/Sportclad Motorcycle jacket compared to a few others. I've got to do a new one, I've lost a few in this video, but gained a few more that haven't been shown.

That’s fanatic Terry, enjoyed watching this video and each jacket you pulled out I thought wow, that’s great, can’t be beaten. Then the next one comes out just as stunning as the previous one... hard to pick a favourite. See what you mean about the comparative lightness and wearability of the Kurland/Sportsclad, that’s a really nice and very wearable jacket. I loved the excelled too, but maybe my favourite was that beast of a Hercules...

 

[tmitchell59]

Some Random pic from a Cold February day.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[yellowfever]

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Some real beauties there as usual! Many thanks for posting. love the two D pockets especially. Hercules and ??

The lovely reddish brown one seems very unusual (to my non-expert eye) as it appears to be a police jacket given the badge holder on the left chest? I thought USA police jackets (whether motorbike, foot or horseback) were always black?Interesting that that may not be the case...

 

[tmitchell59]

ove the two D pockets especially. Hercules and ??

Both Hercules, both Horsehide.

he lovely reddish brown one seems very unusual (to my non-expert eye) as it appears to be a police jacket given the badge holder on the left chest? I thought USA police jackets (whether motorbike, foot or horseback) were always black?Interesting that that may not be the case...

That jacket is a Ralphs-Pugh Horsehide from the 50s. It is an unusual color for a Police Jacket, most are black. I've seen some Cal Leather in Darker Brown. That is also a fine fitting/feeling jacket I can wear.

Has a huge badge holder!

 

[yellowfever]

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Both Hercules, both Horsehide.



That jacket is a Ralphs-Pugh Horsehide from the 50s. It is an unusual color for a Police Jacket, most are black. I've seen some Cal Leather in Darker Brown. That is also a fine fitting/feeling jacket I can wear.

Has a huge badge holder!

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Thanks Terry , brace of Hercules horsehide D pockets, what’s not to like!

Loving that Ralphs-Pugh jacket too, hide looks characterful, looks great on you and the button cuffs are sweet too. A different and unusual vibe for a police jacket in that reddish brown, most interesting... big badge holder really great touch!

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Both Hercules, both Horsehide.



That jacket is a Ralphs-Pugh Horsehide from the 50s. It is an unusual color for a Police Jacket, most are black. I've seen some Cal Leather in Darker Brown. That is also a fine fitting/feeling jacket I can wear.

Has a huge badge holder!

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The brown Ralphs Pugh is one of my absolute favorite jackets, period.