Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[jeo]

@Leigh H I'm fairly certain these are your photos. And I'm sorry, that label is just a steerhide label without the RP name on it.

Here's the back of that jacket.

And here is why I'm certain RP made jackets for MW.

Here's a Top Notch RP jacket. Similar front and identical back.

 

[Leigh H]

I'm fairly certain they did.

@Leigh H , I believe you own the RP jacket below with both the MW label and the steerhide Top Notch RP label, no? Looks like the liner was replaced on this jacket, so who knows if that MW label was added, but it's a good indication.

View attachment 515100

As discussed previously, California Sportswear also made jackets for MW.

Here’s a very rare MW labeled jacket made by California Sportswear. It’s the classic CSC “surrogates” jacket but with the MW label. Besides the design of the jacket itself, the CSC signature is the double stitch around the pockets, back design and buckle.

View attachment 515101 View attachment 515102

You’re totally right @jeo, it looks like label was added when it was given a new lining and collar by @regius ?

Thanks for sharing this info!

 

[jeo]

You’re totally right @jeo, it looks like label was added when it was given a new lining and collar by @semolina_pilchard ?

View attachment 515127
View attachment 515129

Thanks for sharing this info!

Ok. That jacket and label is what made me think RP made jackets for MW. The jacket is definitely a Ralphs Pugh made jacket, it’s just now I’m not sure if made for MW.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[handymike]

@tmitchell59 can you send me a bigger version of this one?

 

[tmitchell59]

@tmitchell59 can you send me a bigger version of this one?
View attachment 515237

That is all I have. Don't recall where I got that picture. Has a 40s zipper.

 

[handymike]

I love it!!!!!

 

[jeo]

One of the coolest labels I’ve ever seen.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[semolina_pilchard]

You’re totally right @jeo, it looks like label was added when it was given a new lining and collar by @regius ?

View attachment 515127
View attachment 515129

Thanks for sharing this info!

@Leigh H here's the post where regius described that the labels were found at the time of relining the jacket: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jacket-are-you-wearing-today.82949/post-2814067

 

[handymike]

Wow! I wonder if they only did this design (the flap chest pocket) for Wards. Mine is the same jacket but with a zippered chest pocket and a badge holder. I wish we could find old Wards catalogs like the Sears ones.

 

[Kubatu]

I'm listing this jacket later today and I haven't been able to figure out the maker. Size 40 on a cloth tag in the coin pocket, but the lining may be a replacement - basically some sort of satin material instead of the wool or quilted lining I'd expect from a 50s jacket. I keep looking at examples of the usual suspects for vintage cross zips and I've come up empty so far, any suggestions?

 

[jeo]

I'm listing this jacket later today and I haven't been able to figure out the maker. Size 40 on a cloth tag in the coin pocket, but the lining may be a replacement - basically some sort of satin material instead of the wool or quilted lining I'd expect from a 50s jacket. I keep looking at examples of the usual suspects for vintage cross zips and I've come up empty so far, any suggestions?

My guess would be Spiegel. Here's one that was posted recently in the finds and deals threads that looks almost identical. Collar shape, back design and belt w/ no holes and buckle with no pin in particular look similar. I don't believe Speigel was a maker so you can likely see this exact jacket makeup with a different label. I know I've seen this back design on many other 50's mc jackets.

 

[Leigh H]

Nice looking patina on this 50's SPORT-O-JAC

 

[58panheadfan]

Pictures from 1950's "one star" type leather jackets made from various manufacturers*
*Google translation of japanese pictures textes at bottom.

Durable

Alden Crest

Buco J-71

Californian

Guide Master Wolf & Hercules

Interesting are the picture texts in Japanese which I freely translated with google (from top to bottom) whereby the Japanese are known for their authenticity:

Durable text already translateted in durable thread:

Alden Crest
"50's double riders with the name of a local men's shop. The simple design of 3 zip pockets and 1 flap pocket is attractive."

Buco J-71
"A model that ist probably J-71 from the design. The lining is satin quilted."

Californian
"The first time the chest pocket attached to teh acute angel is characteristic. The studs on the edges of the pockets ar a detail that seems to be from this era."
"Double riders wiht twstars on each shoulder. The taste and teh atmosphere of this plus parts match".

Guide Master Wolf
"A double type with a large impact that effectively uses black such as the collar and pockets edges on a white base."

Hercules
"Sears private brand Hercules motorcycle jacket. 2-tone specifications popular in the vintage market".

Guide Master Wolf
"From the Label, it seems to be a model from the late 50's to the early 60's. Rhombus chain zipper on left chest. The cut on the back is stylish."

more to follow...

 

[58panheadfan]

More 1950's "one star" types:
*Google translation of japanese pictures textes at bottom.

Unknown & Hercules

Indian Sportswear

Kit Karson

Schott

Sierra & M. Bogen and Sons

Sportclad

Unknown & Nelco (not Welco as stated in the japanese magazine)

Winward

Google Translation from japanese picture textes:

Unknown
"Double riders with white belt, lower collar, epaultets etc. on a black base. The heavy zipper is a military type. Kidney design on the lower back."

Hercules
"3 zip double riders. The two-tone piping is a detail unique to Hercules and the two-star, belt and other designs are typical of the 50's."

Indian Sportswear
"A riders jacket with custom studs to the one-star specifation. A buffalo check pattern is used for the lining and the back is made of a single piece of leather."

Kit Karson
"Gray leather is used only for the collar, epaulettes and pocket parts. The combination of chic colors that you don't often see, is very fresh."
"All zipper pockets are rhombic chains. Epaulets with hidden studs and lined with red wool fabric."
"Gray leather is used only for the epaulets and pocket openings. The combination of chic colors that you don't often see is very fresh."
"Kit Karson with a charming character drawn on the name. A two-tone color scheme that is often seen in this brand, the epaulettes are equipped with three stars."

Schott
"Perfecto model with black tag. The predecessor model of the Perfecto 618 born in the 1960's."

Sierra
"Double riders with a slighlty larger collar. A zip map pocket is provided on the left side of the back and the waist belt is cut at the side.

M. Bogen and Sons
"One star double riders with silver satin quilted lining. The waist belt can be adjusted with a dot button."

Sportclad
"Sportclad is J.C. Penny's sportswear brand. The mainstream of 50's riders such as sleeve zippers and 3 zips and 1 flap."

Unknown
"A two-tone W riders with black upper collar, epaulettes and white leather belt. Rhombus chain zipper is used."

Nelco
"A double riders in a two-tone design with 3 zippers and Gold Medal name pocket flaps that switch to white leather."

Winward
"Winward double riders designed by Montgomery Ward in the late 1950's. The epaulet has marks where two stars have been removed."

 

[58panheadfan]

The black x grey Kit Karson is my personal favorite!

 

[58panheadfan]

@tmitchell59 I know nothing "new" for you but still interesting & information to see pictures of old leather jacket, isn't it?

 

[ton312]

Welco....LOOOL!

 

[jeo]

@Marc mndt you were right! The two tone was a Kit Karson. Who knew they were that old.